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Bumping .223 shoulder on RL550

I have made 1000s of 20 VTs from LC 5.56 on a 650 Dillon.

There is a significant difference in shoulder setback and retention relative to the degree of annealing. Shoulders are also inconsistent if annealing is insufficient.

Try annealing to a deeper ruby red if using propane.

Alcohol/lanolin mixture also improved shoulder consistency for me.
Can you size 100 that are perfectly identical?
 
I’d sure like to see someone full length size, bump shoulders consistently (.0005 either way), on a progressive. Not saying it’s impossible. I hope it is possible. Because if I could I would. Anything that makes brass prep suck less is priceless.
I am close to that on an autodrive Dillon 1050. You need good brass, consistent annealing, a high quality die, and the right shell plate. Inconsistency in the shell plate pockets is a reality. There are some other tricks involved as well.
 
I am close to that on an autodrive Dillon 1050. You need good brass, consistent annealing, a high quality die, and the right shell plate. Inconsistency in the shell plate pockets is a reality. There are some other tricks involved as well.
I’m a visual learner. Gotta see it. All hundred or however many. Even on a single stage, the only way I have accomplished this is with comp shell holders, annealing, proper lube, no expander ball, consistent stroke on the ram, and some voodoo. On good brass.

Not saying it can’t happen, just ain’t seen it with my own eyes.
 
This got me thinking. I assume if one wanted to be more consistent they should set up the die on a particular station in the shell plate and use that one only marking it with a drop of paint or something. Also, what if one shimmed underneath that station on the sizing operation to remove any flex of the plate whatsoever. In my case the die no longer touches it. Something to test. Wiping the outside of the neck and shoulder right before sizing is also a thought to remove anything that would create inconsistencies.
 
This got me thinking. I assume if one wanted to be more consistent they should set up the die on a particular station in the shell plate and use that one only marking it with a drop of paint or something. Also, what if one shimmed underneath that station on the sizing operation to remove any flex of the plate whatsoever. In my case the die no longer touches it. Something to test. Wiping the outside of the neck and shoulder right before sizing is also a thought to remove anything that would create inconsistencies.
There’s a number of places on a progressive that flex.

An iron “O” press flexes a couple thousandths.

The only way I can get 100% consistent sizing/bumps, is hard contact on Redding comp shell holders, annealing, consistent lube etc.

With all that I can absolutely center punch each case dead nuts the same.

If you make hard contact on the Dillon and nothing flexed inconsistently you’d be over sizing the brass.
 

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