I have a Thumler my Dad gave me for Christmas in the late 1970s. It has polished more brass than I can count and is still going strong. Only thing I had to replace were the guides that keep the drum centered. Made new heavy duty ones in the shop and it is good for another 45 years. It will outlast me…. Danny
Tumblers
- Thread starter Jagermeister
- Start date
I have the small FART. I like it. You want the drum to be pretty full of brass IMHO. It stops from banging up the case mouth if you use it to remove lube. I have never used pins and don't even own them. Brass comes out nice. I would only use pins if i had some gross range pick up or something. These days I only tumble 15 to 20 min after FLS to remove the lube.
A Cabela’s branded Berry vibratory here.
I’m a believer in cutting up a couple of used dryer softener into strips and adding to the media each time. They will collect the grime and keep your media cleaner. This was a tip from someone else on this Forum.
I’m a believer in cutting up a couple of used dryer softener into strips and adding to the media each time. They will collect the grime and keep your media cleaner. This was a tip from someone else on this Forum.
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I have one like this , work like a mule, but the motor tend to be hot past 2 hours..
I have a STM rotatory tumbler for wet and pins and Frankford Arsenal kit.
Wet tumbling are the best method for large batch of very dirty cases.
But for tumbling and dry the cases need a lot of time.
But the result are incomparabile, also for very dirty and fouled cases, primer pocket also like new.
I use every 3 or 4 shoot.
Fast and free of operator interaction are the Frankford Arsenal vibratory tumbler, 1,¹/² hours and the cases are ready, separate the media and a little polished with a cotton towel.
Wet tumbling are the best method for large batch of very dirty cases.
But for tumbling and dry the cases need a lot of time.
But the result are incomparabile, also for very dirty and fouled cases, primer pocket also like new.
I use every 3 or 4 shoot.
Fast and free of operator interaction are the Frankford Arsenal vibratory tumbler, 1,¹/² hours and the cases are ready, separate the media and a little polished with a cotton towel.
I’ve been using a Frankfort Arsenal Platinum Tumbler for years and have had excellent results though the Rebel 17 is of a much higher quality and the fact that you can have a 220V motor for only $10 more puts it well ahead of the Frankfort in that respect. Seriously considering replacing the Frankfort though there is nothing wrong with it but the idea of a SS barrel plus bearing roller system and having a timer like the Frankfort is very tempting…
I always do a 24 hr pre-soak to loosen up primer pocket rubbish and generally get a head start on cleaning and reducing the tumbling time and thus minimising the amount of peening of the case mouths. Never more than 1&1/2 hr. max tumbling time.
Pre-soak with near to boiling water, dash of Lemi-Shine, small squirt of dish soap {NO, it does not have to be Dawn…They are ALL detergents and any of the better brands work} and 10ml of Bore Tec sonic cleaner.
Then a wash before going into the tumbler barrel with fresh, hot as possible tap water, dash Lemi-Shine, squirt of dish soap, 10ml Bore Tec sonic concentrate {it not only cleans but adds a bit of tarnish resistance} and two tbsp of “Burnishing Compound” that I get from a lapidary supply.
The compound is the real secret to getting a “As New” finish result.
Clean, shiny brass inside and out!
Then into the AMP and you have factory equivalent new brass except it is now fire formed to your chamber or if you are doing it for others then their surprise at the superior results if they have been just doing vibratory or sonic cleaning.
BTW:NEVER add car polish or some such to your solution or onto your cases if you are planing to anneal them…!!! The gas that is given off when the cases are heated will choke you and in the case of the AMP, cause a deposit of black pollution on the induction plates and is going to require a LOT of cleaning of the annealing chamber and will still put out fumes for a lone time!
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v
This applies whether you use a torch system or and induction plate one… the heat will burn what ever finish you have applied and the results will not be good for your health….
Pass on the Nu- Finish if you are going to anneal the cases… the heat necessary to do the job will burn it off with a gas that will have you choking.Or you can just dump your brass in a vibratory tumbler with Lizard Litter with a dollup of Nu -Finish, let it run a while, sift, and reload.
This applies whether you use a torch system or and induction plate one… the heat will burn what ever finish you have applied and the results will not be good for your health….
Can’t argue with first hand experience.Nu-Finish will be fine if you use this annealer.
Okay, have no experience with the product but can say that the car polish was a total disaster… Something suggested off the internet, {not this forum} and tried years ago, much to my regret.Nu-Finish will be fine if you use this annealer.
I have found that by adding a small dose {10ml} of the Bore-Tec sonic cleaning concentrate that I am getting a fairly long lasting tarnish resistant finish without any “Burn Off”.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
I had a Frankfort Arsenal vibratory that didn't last at all. Replaced it with a Berry's and a FART. I don't use the pins in the FART, rather use Turtle wash/wax, Dawn, and citric acid and cases come out 98% as clean as when done with SS pin without the hassle of the pins.
SSchnd
Silver $$ Contributor
This is a better version of the Thumblers Model B IMHO
The rod end bearings for the platform are nice. And the drum equals the model B.
And their pins I have used for years do not get stuck in flash holes. I have since added chips as a different media.
The STM kit has substantial bearings on the rod ends and runs at twice the speed of a rock tumbler, or so it's claimed.
I have read that the "chips" are more likely to stick to the inside walls of a wet case. I still use the originals pins that came with the STM tumbler package. I always pin tumble pistol cases and the brass for the 458SOCOM but other than that, I only occasionally put my rifle cases through the process. I have also learned that "less is more" when it comes to tumbling time. I run rifle brass less than 30min.
Rick300
Gold $$ Contributor
The
They might but if you use the media separator, fill with water so the bottom inch or 2 is under water. Have never found a chip this way. A few turns of the basket above the waterline doesn't hurt either.
SSchnd
Silver $$ Contributor
Rick Nailed it, The separator ( I use a F.A. combo one) with the bottom tub filled with water allows all the media Pins and chips to flow right out while the basket is immersed in the water bath. I learned this instead of trying to shake them out without water immersion the stick friction keeps that junk in the cases, especially smaller neck one.
As Rick said it works like a dream. I have refined my wet processes over some years and find it very simple and easy. I still use vibratory for big crud but hate the dry media sticking in flash holes and the dirt and dust.
My Thumblers B was purchased when I was shooting BPCR rifle. Needed water to clean the black powder. I used to run it with ceramic for wet cleaning . But now use STS.
It does very well with corn cob also.
One member here mentioned to pull the liner and inspect it. I pulled mine and coat it with a product called Penetrol. It dries hard and forms a barrier so metal is protected. It can be painted over or even added to paint. But moisture can get between the rubber liner and the Thumblers metal barrel. So it’s wise to remove it once in a while to protect it.
It does very well with corn cob also.
One member here mentioned to pull the liner and inspect it. I pulled mine and coat it with a product called Penetrol. It dries hard and forms a barrier so metal is protected. It can be painted over or even added to paint. But moisture can get between the rubber liner and the Thumblers metal barrel. So it’s wise to remove it once in a while to protect it.
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