Battle Of The Bulge (Belted Cases)

[SixFive]

So the story goes I bought a LOAD of 6.5-300 WBY Mag brass about half of it unfired, the other half fired. The new brass chambered as it should, the once fired brass (from someone else's rifle) would not. It had the bulge above the rim. I also have a .257 WBY mag that the brass is starting the bulge after 6 reloads, nothing else wrong with the brass, it has plenty of life minus the bulge.

I started doing my research thinking surely someone had already addressed this problem. I found someone had! Innovative Technologies sells a special collet die for $139.99 OK I thought I would just order one. The first issue is they say they have a 3 to 6 month backorder wait. The second issue is they use PAYPAL as their online credit card merchant. I believe PAYPAL hates gun owners and is 100% ANTI GUN. I REFUSE to ever deal with them, EVER. RANT OVER

After work this evening I went in the hobby machine shop and made my own. I used 17-4ph stainless, it took less than an hour to make. It works PERFECTLY! I fixed all my brass 6.5-300 and .257 it all chambers perfectly now. My design does not use a collet, simpler in design but effective.

Below are some pics of what I made.

This die ONLY sizes the base in front of the belt, where the problem always is.

 

[BoydAllen]

When a friend had the same problem with a .300 WM, I suggested that he pick up the cheapest used FL die he could find on Ebay, and cut it off below the shoulder, long enough to put a long ring on in his press. He did. It worked. Funny thing, lacking a lathe to cut the die, He used a right angle grinder, and smoothed the ID with a Dremel tool stone.

 

[hoz53]

So the story goes I bought a LOAD of 6.5-300 WBY Mag brass about half of it unfired, the other half fired. The new brass chambered as it should, the once fired brass (from someone else's rifle) would not. It had the bulge above the rim. I also have a .257 WBY mag that the brass is starting the bulge after 6 reloads, nothing else wrong with the brass, it has plenty of life minus the bulge.

I started doing my research thinking surely someone had already addressed this problem. I found someone had! Innovative Technologies sells a special collet die for $139.99 OK I thought I would just order one. The first issue is they say they have a 3 to 6 month backorder wait. The second issue is they use PAYPAL as their online credit card merchant. I believe PAYPAL hates gun owners and is 100% ANTI GUN. I REFUSE to ever deal with them, EVER. RANT OVER

After work this evening I went in the hobby machine shop and made my own. I used 17-4ph stainless, it took less than an hour to make. It works PERFECTLY! I fixed all my brass 6.5-300 and .257 it all chambers perfectly now. My design does not use a collet, simpler in design but effective.

Below are some pics of what I made.

This die ONLY sizes the base in front of the belt, where the problem always is.

looks like you made the whole die - nice job- what diameter did you make the inside of it where it sizes the brass? what did you use to cut it? thanks

 

[hoz53]

When a friend had the same problem with a .300 WM, I suggested that he pick up the cheapest used FL die he could find on Ebay, and cut it off below the shoulder, long enough to put a long ring on in his press. He did. It worked. Funny thing, lacking a lathe to cut the die, He used a right angle grinder, and smoothed the ID with a Dremel tool stone.

oh it took me a minute - you meant lock ring. but doing that a guy mite not get a die that sizes the base down enough?? hi boyd— kh

 

[SixFive]

looks like you made the whole die - nice job- what diameter did you make the inside of it where it sizes the brass? what did you use to cut it? thanks

The sizing part is .503 Brass always has a little spring back the end goal is .505 as measured off my new unfired brass. I did make the entire die all on my Southbend lathe. The sizing area was carefully bored .001 oversize and then polished to size. I am not ma machinist but I get by

 

[BoydAllen]

oh it took me a minute - you meant lock ring. but doing that a guy mite not get a die that sizes the base down enough?? hi boyd— kh

The cause of the original issue for both the OP of this thread and my friend is that if you properly set the FL die to give the proper shoulder bump there will be a band just above the belt that will not be sized. Cutting off the shoulder part of a one piece die allows the die to be set low enough to eliminate the unsized band, without affecting shoulder bump. This is a "second op" on top of the regular sizing. Looking on the Lee site, a .300 Weatherby FL die lists for $23.

 

[SixFive]

The cause of the original issue for both the OP of this thread and my friend is that if you properly set the FL die to give the proper shoulder bump there will be a band just above the belt that will not be sized. Cutting off the shoulder part of a one piece die allows the die to be set low enough to eliminate the unsized band, without affecting shoulder bump. This is a "second op" on top of the regular sizing. Looking on the Lee site, a .300 Weatherby FL die lists for $23.

Even with that I still want mine to push a little tighter above then belt than a die cut as described, but that was a great expedient idea!

 

[nmkid]

My bulge problems on my 257 WBY were solved with a simple body die.

 

[hoz53]

The cause of the original issue for both the OP of this thread and my friend is that if you properly set the FL die to give the proper shoulder bump there will be a band just above the belt that will not be sized. Cutting off the shoulder part of a one piece die allows the die to be set low enough to eliminate the unsized band, without affecting shoulder bump. This is a "second op" on top of the regular sizing. Looking on the Lee site, a .300 Weatherby FL die lists for $23.

ok i got it Boyd -- if i need one i will try it
thanks

 

[Blackthorn]

I have one of those fancy Innovative Tech dies. Bought it at least 15 years ago. Works pretty good but I don’t run my 300WM as much as I used to.

 

[hoz53]

My bulge problems on my 257 WBY were solved with a simple body die.

i was thinking redding would make a body die -- doesnt it have a shoulder in it though?
out here in hoosierland yet?

 

[hoz53]

I have one of those fancy Innovative Tech dies. Bought it at least 15 years ago. Works pretty good but I don’t run my 300WM as much as I used to.

used to be a guy on here- PB bike - i think - that sold them

 

[hoz53]

The sizing part is .503 Brass always has a little spring back the end goal is .505 as measured off my new unfired brass. I did make the entire die all on my Southbend lathe. The sizing area was carefully bored .001 oversize and then polished to size. I am not ma machinist but I get by

thanks 4 that info-- id always rather make something if i have the ability 2 do it.

 

[SixFive]

I think next I am going to make a full length sizing die with the same reamer I cut the chamber with, why I dunno, seems like it would be cool and maybe more precise then a universal factory die.

 

[hoz53]

I think next I am going to make a full length sizing die with the same reamer I cut the chamber with, why I dunno, seems like it would be cool and maybe more precise then a universal factory die.

generally they use a finish reamer to make a seating die and you have to get a reamer that produces smaller dimensions for a size die.

 

[ISS]

Ever measure from base of the case to front of the belt? It's the basic reason I dislike belted cases. It is the reason I did not use the 300WM for my Banshee, although dimensions are close enough to turn the belt off instead of using the 6.5x68 Shuler case.

ISS

 

[Webster]

So the story goes I bought a LOAD of 6.5-300 WBY Mag brass about half of it unfired, the other half fired. The new brass chambered as it should, the once fired brass (from someone else's rifle) would not. It had the bulge above the rim. I also have a .257 WBY mag that the brass is starting the bulge after 6 reloads, nothing else wrong with the brass, it has plenty of life minus the bulge.

I started doing my research thinking surely someone had already addressed this problem. I found someone had! Innovative Technologies sells a special collet die for $139.99 OK I thought I would just order one. The first issue is they say they have a 3 to 6 month backorder wait. The second issue is they use PAYPAL as their online credit card merchant. I believe PAYPAL hates gun owners and is 100% ANTI GUN. I REFUSE to ever deal with them, EVER. RANT OVER

After work this evening I went in the hobby machine shop and made my own. I used 17-4ph stainless, it took less than an hour to make. It works PERFECTLY! I fixed all my brass 6.5-300 and .257 it all chambers perfectly now. My design does not use a collet, simpler in design but effective.

Below are some pics of what I made.

This die ONLY sizes the base in front of the belt, where the problem always is.

Similar problem. I have a 6BR and a 6BRX. I have one of the best gun smiths. I can chamber a new 6BR case in my 6BRX to FF. A 6BR case fired in my 6BR will not even come close to chambering in my 6BRX. I was told their was a difference in reamer dimensions. Had to be a tighter body diameter on the 6BRX. Never measured the cases to see the difference. Still have box of Lapua 6BR cases that I never opened. Paid $75 about 7 years ago.

 

[nmkid]

i was thinking redding would make a body die -- doesnt it have a shoulder in it though?
out here in hoosierland yet?

Fighting the flu and not thinking straight,(LOL). I have a redding die and I believe it only touches the base.

 

[hoz53]

Fighting the flu and not thinking straight,(LOL). I have a redding die and I believe it only touches the base.

ok

 

[DocBII]

Good day,

Anyone tested the Redding larger dies for magnum caliber body sizing? Redding TS told me in the past they wouldn't make a 7/8" die to size the body down to 0.506" or near that on a 300 WM, because they kept splitting or breaking the die. When I last looked, they wanted something north of $100 for the die.

Thanks,
DocBII