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Nitride barrels

Clean it like muzzle loader barrel. A bucket of boiling hot water with Simple Green or Dawn dishwashing liquid, a proper bronze bore brush, and clear boiling water to rinse with. It has worked for me!
Thats exactly what I did.
 
Overall, nitriding rifle barrels is not well understood. I don't remember what year I first had a barrel nitride treated, but Rodney at MMI did the first, and then several after. After Rodney no longer was doing it (it was a sideline I believe, using /renting his employers facility), I had H&M do a 'batch', and was also satisfied with the results. The last several 'batches' I have had processed was done by CCT , in Arizona. I don't build or shoot benchrest, I build (or used to as I have slowed as I age) varmint and big game rifles, doing shotgun and handgun work if it suits me. I've not seen negative effects from the process from any of the 3 service providers I have used. I think the main thing is to fire the barrel a few time (3-4 is all I've needed), clean it squeaky clean and bore scope it, and clean it VERY WELL before re-installing it, after it comes back from the treater. I've noticed no degrading of accuracy, and my clients haven't either. The down side, I don't get to re-barrel those varmint rifles as often. Maybe it's not for the BR crowd, but the varmint hunters love it. Leaves a nice 'blued' finish, that comes real close to my slow rust blue., and is much more durable than any spray on coating. It is durable. After treatment, the surface is too hard to cut with HS tooling, takes careful use of carbide to get under the hardness layer. Do with it what you will. Either try it for yourself or listen to the internet. Your choice. An after thought; I see no logical reason to plug the bore when using a submerged process (like bluing or nitriding). Some will say the process leaves etching in the surface. If done correctly, etching is minimal,,,, you can't "shoot the difference". I would and do plug the bore and chamber when applying any of the spray on coatings (especially the chamber end. One shot would clear any over spray from the muzzle end, but I plug it anyway.).
 
I believe it was either the metal or barrel stress relief process the barrel manufacturer used .
I believe its something in the 416 vrs CM.
In all likelihood the SS and CM were heat treated the same.
The SS ones that I saw changed the bore dia were about .0002 bigger. I used deltronic pin guages on the barrels before and after.
 
I believe its something in the 416 vrs CM.
In all likelihood the SS and CM were heat treated the same.
The SS ones that I saw changed the bore dia were about .0002 bigger. I used deltronic pin guages on the barrels before and after.
416R and CM should be treated at different temp. The processors I have used will not put both into the same 'batch'. Either all 416R, or all CM.
 
If only have 1-2 barrels done, chances are you go through a 3rd party that is sending a "batch". If you have a "batch" you can send yourself, you may get to speak with the engineer and learn something. The material (steel) the barrel(s) are made of needs to be specified to the processor. The cost to have barrels treated has increased steadily over the years. It is NOT as low of a cost as it once was,,,, but what is? Get a 3rd party involved and they want their 'cut', too.
 
416R and CM should be treated at different temp. The processors I have used will not put both into the same 'batch'. Either all 416R, or all CM.
I'm talking heat treat of the barrel making process with button barrels not nitride process.
 
IMO nitride adds tenths to dimensions. I’ve sent in very close fitted action/bolt parts that when put back together are now slightly tight. They still move but there is obviously a small resistance that wasn’t there to start with. Learned my lesson and clearance parts just a tad bit extra when I know they’ll be nitrided.
 
Stainless can be 'blued', but the same solution used to blue carbon steels is not used. I seem to remember that Glenrock Blue can do this, as they have tank/chemical. If you plug the bore when submerging the barrel in any high heated solution (regular bluing tanks operate at 280-290F) the plugs would be blown out due to expansion of the atmosphere trapped between those plugs. Nitride process operates at an even higher temp. Black nitride has its place, but it's not for everything. Having 1 barrel nitrided is not cost effective.
What's nitriding cost? I would be afraid of warpage due to the heat. I did QC on nitrided gears almost dailey. Erosion of barrels is called hot gas erosion. I don't think it's related to hardness? It's more closley related to the melting temp of the metal. A lot of complcated metallurgy about phase changes and chemical changes at the surface due to hot gases and chemicals present. I would put the money towards a new barrel.
 
Erosion of barrels is called hot gas erosion. I don't think it's related to hardness? It's more closley related to the melting temp of the metal.
This is my understanding also. Yet many report extended accurate barrel life.
 

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