Bald Eagle Rest Mods.

[T.Rhodes]

I thought I'd post recent modifications I've done on my Bald Eagle rest.... think there's still a number of guys using these.
First, got rid of the twist cable windage adjustment and got the Shadetree Engineering coax rest top (thanks @butchlambert ) Since top does away with the need for fine elevation adjustment, I took the mariner wheel off and used a set screw to lock that down.

I didn't like having the long "Y" leg near the joystick so flipped the frame 180 degrees. Much better.

I bought three rest feet from Grizzly and ginned up new 1/2-13NC legs with new thumb knobs. The base foot diameter is 3". This should work much better for F class prone in dirt/grave/sand. Right now I'm using jam nuts to lock in place.

One disadvantage is that the course elevation adjustment is further away from me in the prone, so I have to deal with that.

When we get out of this sub-zero cold...I may go try it out!

 

[Fuj]

Timely.....I just pulled out of inventory an aluminum slingshot I want
to use just for fire forming. I run a longer joy stick on my BE's using
Butch's top. I'll try to get a pic later on.

 

[Fuj]

The one I use for just general hunting rifles or rim fires. Mariners wheel
is long gone. If I need more height, I use thick aluminum washers under
the posts and lock it down. Riser screws are also removed but can get
another inch of elevation the way i have my mountings done underneath.
I also added my stick extension and bent downward. I like to work it a
little closer to the rear bag and low. Standard leg forward, and no clearance
problem. I also have a 17 lb steel plate that mounts underneath for when I
want to have more weight.

 

[Bill Norris]

I thought I'd post recent modifications I've done on my Bald Eagle rest.... think there's still a number of guys using these.
First, got rid of the twist cable windage adjustment and got the Shadetree Engineering coax rest top (thanks @butchlambert ) Since top does away with the need for fine elevation adjustment, I took the mariner wheel off and used a set screw to lock that down.

I didn't like having the long "Y" leg near the joystick so flipped the frame 180 degrees. Much better.

I bought three rest feet from Grizzly and ginned up new 1/2-13NC legs with new thumb knobs. The base foot diameter is 3". This should work much better for F class prone in dirt/grave/sand. Right now I'm using jam nuts to lock in place.

One disadvantage is that the course elevation adjustment is further away from me in the prone, so I have to deal with that.

When we get out of this sub-zero cold...I may go try it out!

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Glad you brought the point forward of not needing the mariners wheel for elevation adjustment. Ditched mine and lost another 5/8 inch or so from the height of the rest.

 

[Liven The Dream]

Not a lot of changes legs feet level but works for me. Butch just did a Tune up and Tension Screws

 

[T.Rhodes]

Not a lot of changes legs feet level but works for me. Butch just did a Tune up and Tension Screws

I see the mariner wheel still there - do you use it? Seemed redundant with the fine verticle on the joy stick. Do you do bench rest or F class prone or other?

 

[Downeast]

I've got a shade tree top. I wonder if I can reverse it too?

 

[T.Rhodes]

I've got a shade tree top. I wonder if I can reverse it too?

You probably can but it does move the course elevation controls further away from the shooter. I show that in my photos above. If you still have the mariner wheel you may want to remove that to simplify things.

You could try it out and if it doesn't work for - you can change it back. It's not a permanant conversion.

 

[Bill Norris]

You probably can but it does move the course elevation controls further away from the shooter. I show that in my photos above. If you still have the mariner wheel you may want to remove that to simplify things.

You could try it out and if it doesn't work for - you can change it back. It's not a permanant conversion.

I like mine without the wheel. It allows the top to sit lower on the base which in turn allows me to not use bait under the rear bag.

 

[Downeast]

I removed the rear screw on mine. It just got in the way.

 

[Fuj]

I like mine without the wheel. It allows the top to sit lower on the base which in turn allows me to not use bait under the rear bag.

Somewhere in my inventory, I have an early model slingshot that is
just the base casting, with no attached parts. I've had it in my mind
to mill a lot off the bottom, to lower it more for a certain rim fire of
mine. Shooting 100 yards at Anderson Creek is problematic. Some
have to raise the rear bag, I will throw a board under the rear leg of
the bench sometimes.

 

[Liven The Dream]

I see the mariner wheel still there - do you use it? Seemed redundant with the fine verticle on the joy stick. Do you do bench rest or F class prone or other?

I use mostly at the Bench and a little F/Class Rim Fire and Center Fire .
I have I SEB Mini for the Center Fire F open .
Mini just to big for the Benches at our Club .
52 tomorrow it is off to Rim Fire work .

 

[Fuj]

Dug up a pic from last year. We were setting grandson Zach up
for a rim fire match. The Bald Eagle I was using is the one with the
17 lb steel plate. I just slip off the post and slipped on the Shade Tree
top. Everything stacked for the shorter yardage made it too tall, plus
the quick and dirty bag rider plate was no help. Either way, note the
block of wood under the back leg of the bench.