Barrels unscrewing from the action.

[BoydAllen]

I have never used a torque wrench to tighten a barrel and I have never had one come loose. The action that I have changed barrels on the most is a Viper and I use a wrench that I bought from Kelbly's, that has a T handle that is long enough to give quite a bit of leverage. I stand beside the rifle, with my far hand palm up, and my near hand palm down, both even with the ends of the bar, and tighten with arm strength alone. This works for me. I have never had a problem. I use common copper bearing automotive anti seize. Building engines I always use a torque wrench and am quite fastidious about following recommended patterns and tightening in stages. When I remove a barrel, it takes some effort to loosen it initially, which is exactly what I want.

 

[M-61]

and tighten with arm strength alone

As opposed to? Some mechanical device that does the tightening for you?
Why you wouldn’t use a torque wrench?
That mystifies me. Is it mandatory? Nope. But neither is washing your hands before you eat. Will you get sick from not washing? Probably not, but if the sink is there I’m using it.

 

[M-61]

@divingin, standard twist I think will tend to twist the cheek pad toward the right-handed shooter, keeping the shooter "in" the follow-through..
-

Interesting sentence. Not a clue what you’re attempting to say.
Stick with your ‘paste & post’ standard.

 

[D Coots]

Harley Davidson wheel bearing grease. Any grease will work for me. Anti-seize is messy and until someone can prove to me why it works so much better I'll "stick" with grease. I always thought anti seize was needed when there were conditions such as dirt, heat, and moisture??? I think the only thing threads need is lubrication if the gunsmith does his job. It doesn't dissappear leaving the threads bare.

My motto is...use what you want...try lard..............

 

[BoydAllen]

As opposed to? Some mechanical device that does the tightening for you?
Why you wouldn’t use a torque wrench?
That mystifies me. Is it mandatory? Nope. But neither is washing your hands before you eat. Will you get sick from not washing? Probably not, but if the sink is there I’m using it.

This is similar to my action wrench. Note the lack of wrench flats. I bought it from Kelbly's about a quarter century ago. One might think that they know a thing or two about tightening barrels. This one is being sold by PMA Tools, a company that has quite a bit of experience with such matters. Perhaps you overlooked the part where I mentioned that I have never had any problem doing it my way, and yes I always wash my hands.

 

[WSnyder]

This one is being sold by PMA Tools

I use one of those. I don’t know who originally made them but mine came from Dan Kinneman (sp???) bought something like 25-30 or so years ago?

Anti-seize is messy and until someone can prove to me why it works so much better I'll "stick" with grease.

I dislike anti-seize with a passion and avoid it unless it’s specifically called for in an assembly. I use Mystic red EP grease for most everything so that’s what gets used on my barrels.

 

[DiffEQ]

I got a rifle for 1/5 of what it cost to build. Didn't know why until I bought it. The previous two owners couldn't get it to shoot. The barrel was loose. She's a tack driver now.

 

[Dan-Schenk]

I had a factory bergara come loose when I was first starting in 300winmag. Confused the hell out of me, turns out the shoulder wasn’t true square, my smith figured it out and fixed the barrel and action up. Never had another issue after that.

 

[M-61]

One might think that they know a thing or two about tightening barrels. This one is being sold by PMA Tools, a company that has quite a bit of experience with such matters. Perhaps you overlooked the part where I mentioned that I have never had any problem doing it my way,

I’m sure they do. Do they also know the strength of each purchasers arms?
I didn’t overlook that you’ve never had a problem. There’s also folks that cross the street successfully without looking.
The lack of flats is easily solved. But your method works for you so great. Torque wrenches however are made for a reason.
Maybe only one month in a mechanical engineering course brings to the forefront the importance of correct tightening.

 

[M-61]

This one is being sold by PMA Tools

There is/was a site member who makes these. Something like PBike (?) Really first class and possibly guaranteed for life.

 

[Old Navy]

I love this topic every time it comes around. If the rifle barrels were solid 1 .125" the proper torque would be around 1500 lbs. Don't know how you could measure the stretch on the barrel. Maybe sent the headspace with the barrel just snug with a strap wrench and then torque it to your favorite setting to see if the headspace tightened up.

 

[AlNyhus]

A torque number is really just relative to the thread stretch we're trying to accomplish. Once adequate stretch in 60 degree 'V' threads is accomplished, whatever the torque number ends up being....is what it is. You can repeat that in different ways with the most common being a torque spec. from the action manufacturer. Another way is to run the barrel in hand tight, make witness marks on the action and barrel, then load the threads and make another witness mark. Now, all you need to do the next time, or with another barrel, is to match the witness marks and you know it's good to go.

A pic is worth a thousand words....you can see what I'm talking about on my Panda.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[jackieschmidt]

A torque number is really just relative to the thread stretch we're trying to accomplish. Once adequate stretch in 60 degree 'V' threads is accomplished, whatever the torque number ends up being....is what it is. You can repeat that in different way with the most common being a torque spec. from the action manufacturer. Another way is to run the barrel in hand tight, make witness marks on the action and barrel, then load the threads and make another witness mark. Now, all you need to do the next time, or with another barrel, is to match the witness marks and you know it's good to go.

A pic is worth a thousand words....you can see what I'm talking about on my Panda.

Good shootin' -Al

^^^^^^^^
This.
I have been tightening my Benchrest Rifle Barrels in this manner for years.

 

[Andy Work]

That won't work, there's no way to use a torque wrench with that. Maybe PMA needs to take an engineering course.

[sarcasm off]

 

[std7mag]

 

[D Coots]

Damn, a concrete tuner....

I saw a guy throw a barrel into the woods at St Louis once.

Later

Dave

 

[ScottVA]

Stress relief or cold hammer forging process?

 

[Olspark]

I would have been more impressed if it shot to the same POI as before.

 

[Idaho-Lefty]

You mentioned lubed threads. I would think a good anti- seize lubricant would help on keeping one from backing out.

On my 6XC Build, a New RemAge type, SS Rem. 700, short L-H action with, a Criterion 24" Barrel, a Med Hvy Sporter. I used, Lithium grease ONLY on, the "inside, Action, Threads" and Blue Loctite on, the Hex Nut Threads.
This method leaves, the last little Bit of the Barrel's Threads, BARE for, the Loctite "bonding' and, HOLD !
Everything was De-geased / Cleaned with, a Toothbrush, Beforehand.
I Set Bolt H-S to just close, on New Norma Cases and TIGHT on, the Go Gage ( No Brass, Stretch ! ).
Tightened the Hex Nut, "Goot' en Tite" By Hand with, a Big Crescent wrench !
Getting One Hole group's in the 2's - 3's to,.. low 4's ( Bullet dependent ) with, NO "issues",.. Yet !

 

[butchlambert]

How can different torque figures affect headspace? No I'm not an engineer.