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Removing carbon with KREEN

COLT45SA

Silver $$ Contributor
Years ago I bought an engine from a junk yard that had been sitting for many years. It was filthy. It had been sitting so many years that the oil in the pan had turned to a thick jelly. The heads, valves, and pistons were covered in a thick carbon crust. As I tore it down to salvage the re-usable parts I cleaned the heavy oil from the push rods in my parts cleaner. They were still a dark color from imbedded, burnt oil. Strickly for giggles 'n grins I thought I'd try to clean them with some KREEN I had. To my complete amazenent when I wet them down with the KREEN and a shop rag they came up as clean a new. KREEN is my carbon remover for rifle barrels followed by LOSSO.
 
Why? Explain please.
I’ve cleaned rimfire bores with shooters choice/Kroil and short stroked the throat with a nylon brush. Borescoped and this removed carbon from the throat.
I don’t see the need for an abrasive.

From Dan Killough,

One of the most common questions I receive on the phone and at the test range is "What is your cleaning procedure?"
I will share what we do and why. At the range, we clean after every 90-100 rounds. I do not have any of the data, but the engineers from Eley tell me that clean guns shoot better than dirty guns. They get this opinion from all of the data collected from the three Eley Test Ranges. They keep the test information from every rifle that has ever been tested in an Eley Test Range. When testing a rifle we note when we clean the rifle and data is collected on the fouling shots. They have crunched the numbers from this information and come to the conclusion that cleaning is a good thing for rimfire barrels. I have also drawn the same conclusion from my experience shooting benchrest. It has been my experience that every barrel loses accuracy once it becomes dirty, the point at which it loses accuracy is different for each barrel. Almost all of the competitions across rimfire whether 3-P, Benchrest, or Silhouette require somewhere between 25-100 shots before a competitor can easily clean their rifle. I also have not personally seen a rifle that could not shoot at least 100 rounds before losing accuracy due to fouling. So, we settled on 90-100 rounds in between cleanings.

Now part 2, how do we actually clean. We use a bore guide that fits the cleaning rod tightly and the bore guide does not go all the way to the barrel, it stops at the loading ramp. I like to see the rod as it goes into the barrel so I can verify that it is going down the center of the barrel. I use a Kleen Bore Jag because it is the same diameter as my cleaning rod, we use Pro-Shot 1 1/8" square cleaning patches, and we use Pro-Shot 1-Step Solvent. I push one wet patch down the barrel and remove the patch at the muzzle. I then use a Short 10" cleaning rod with a .22 caliber Nylon brush and I scrub the first 2-3" of the barrel with a back and forth motion for about 10 strokes. This is to remove the combustion ring. I then push more wet patches until they come out clean. Typically this is about 4 patches. If we are still shooting the rifle, then I finish with a dry patch. If we are finished shooting, then I finish with a wet patch. I have bore scoped many .22 barrels and I have not found one yet that the nylon brush would not remove the combustion ring. In the past, I used a bronze brush, JB Bore Cleaner, or Iosso polish. They will remove combustion ring, but JB and Iosso are both removing metal from the barrel. They are removing very, very, little metal, but they are removing some. I do not believe the bronze brush will damage the barrel, but many people do not like to use bronze brushes on rimfire barrels. Now the Nylon brush could not possibly damage the barrel and I know it is getting the job done, so that is what I use.

Also, if you are testing your rifle with us and you have a different cleaning regimen, we will be happy to follow it for your rifle. It is your rifle, and we will do everything we can to accommodate you.

I hope you find this information helpful. Perhaps it is not the best cleaning regimen, but it has served me well. We only shoot lead bullets and the forces for a rimfire are not what a centerfire rifle is subjected to. Cleaning the rimfire is relatively easy and can be done in just a couple of minutes and I think it is extremely beneficial for accuracy. If you are not currently cleaning your rifle on a regular basis, I strongly urge you to do so.

Until Next Time,

Dan Killough
 
Soak a patch in C4 on a jag and stick in in the chamber, let it sit for 30 mins spin and if not clean reinsert wet patch and let soak longer. C4 works on hard carbon when consistently wet.
Not in my experience.

Wait. My experience is all with 223 - not smallbore.
 
Now the Nylon brush could not possibly damage the barrel and I know it is getting the job done, so that is what I use.
Nylon bristles will embed with carbon/priming compound and become abrasive... agree the damage from either is negligible.
 
Did the Kreen remove the hard carbon off the valves?
In the late '80s I put a zz motor in my '57 Chevy and used an FI system bought in Mena, AR. The car sat for over 10 years without being run. When I tried to start it after sitting so long, the injectors wouldn"t fire. We pulled them, soaked them over-night in KREEN, fired them with a noid light, reinstalled them, and the engine fired almost immediatly. The stuff is "magic"~!.
 
Iosso seems excessive for rimfires
It is. Maybe not too hard on factory chrome-moly barrels but not something I'd use on a hand-lapped stainless match barrel. According to Paul T (Lakeside Barrels/Muller Barrels) the abrasives like Iosso and JB polish the bore and it won't hold wax like it should. You're essentially creating a "glazed" barrel condition. Paul said the most abrasive thing he's use is maybe Remington 40X bore cleaner. I'll ask Pokey of Shilen the same question next time I see him. I bet he'll give a similar answer

For any of my 22 LR rifles, chrome-moly factory barrels or stainless match barrels, Patch the bore with a few patches wet with solvent. Then use a reasonbly new Proshot bronze brush for a few passes. The patch clean with a couple more wet patches followed by a couple dry. This usually removes 98 percent of the carbon ring. Then I use a felt pellet screwed on to the madrel it fits fairly tight in the bore with a C4. Insert the plug into the leade and let it sit for a little while. Remove then patch the bore again with solvent. A few dry patches and you're done. A barrel that hasn't been cleaned for ages would probably require a little more effort. But still pretty easy to get clean with a decent fitting brush. That's one reason I subscribe to more frequent cleanings rather than the ol' shoot until accuracy falls off.
 
A little over a year ago, I found a Winchester pre-A 52 with factory original stainless steel bbl in a semi-local gunshop. Though I'd read about Winchester using SS bbls on some of their older rifles - and this one was probably made in the mid-1920s - this is the first one I'd ever seen in person. I thought about buying it at that time, but felt it was over-priced. But a month or so ago, while I was in this same shop trying to decide whether to buy a nice Marlin 39 or an equally nice Winchester 9422 XTR, I noticed that the SS pre-A 52 was still in the rack behind the counter. I looked it over again, but walked out with the 9422. But thoughts of that old 52 kept nagging at me, and a couple of weeks later, I went back into that shop with my Hawkeye borescope and gave it a good inspection. I was surprised at how smooth & clean the bore was, except for a slight carbon ring in the leade. After haggling a bit over price, the owner dropped it to the point where I bit, and wound up walking out with it. When I wiped the bore with Ed's Red, I didn't get much out on the couple of patches I pushed through it, but the borescope showed the carbon ring was still there. So I wet a patch with C4 and used a short pistol rod to push it into the chamber, and left it there for 20+ min. Another patch wet with C4 was then pushed through the bore, then a couple of dry patches, then it was inspected with the borescope again. No trace of the carbon ring was visible. Now I have no idea how long that ring had been in the bore, but it's not out of the question to assume it'd been there for several decades - whatever, Boretech C4 carbon remover got it out just that quick & easy.
 
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Years ago I bought an engine from a junk yard that had been sitting for many years. It was filthy. It had been sitting so many years that the oil in the pan had turned to a thick jelly. The heads, valves, and pistons were covered in a thick carbon crust. As I tore it down to salvage the re-usable parts I cleaned the heavy oil from the push rods in my parts cleaner. They were still a dark color from imbedded, burnt oil. Strickly for giggles 'n grins I thought I'd try to clean them with some KREEN I had. To my complete amazenent when I wet them down with the KREEN and a shop rag they came up as clean a new. KREEN is my carbon remover for rifle barrels followed by LOSSO.
I use, what I suspect to be a similar product...Berrymans B-12. When you think about it, any product designed to clean engine valves covered in carbon, should remove carbon from guns.

I don't mention it much because you wouldn't believe the people that go nuts and call me an idiot while saying it was going to destroy the metal on my gun. Last time I remember, car engines contain metal and these products don't destroy them.

It just isn't worth the drama of trying to explain that to people with different opinions. Just don't get it on a plastic or fiberglass stock...it "cleans" those products pretty quickly.
 

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