Cutting method and repair ideas for high gloss stocks

[Adam in WI]

What's the preferred method for shortening a high gloss rifle stock such as those found on older Remingtons, Brownings, etc...? I've been using a table saw with a fairly fine blade, but I'm wondering what the experts use to keep from chipping the finish next to the cut. I've tried taping around the cut, but have still had a little chipping. Is my blade still to coarse, or should I be using something different?

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

What's the preferred method for shortening a high gloss rifle stock such as those found on older Remingtons, Brownings, etc...? I've been using a table saw with a fairly fine blade, but I'm wondering what the experts use to keep from chipping the finish next to the cut. I've tried taping around the cut, but have still had a little chipping. Is my blade still to coarse, or should I be using something different?

I started getting much less chipping when I bought an 80 tooth blade designed for cabinet work.
In fact, I can't remember a time it has ever failed to make a perfect cut.
It cuts nothing but stocks.

 

[Adam in WI]

Do you just mark and cut? Or do you tape where the cut goes?

 

[Rwfish]

You can tape off and then run a razor blade around the edge before cutting to eliminate chipping as well as an 80 tooth carbide tip blade.

 

[LVLAaron]

80 tooth blade... Talk to the guys at your local wood craft if you have one... There are thin kerf blades that are less than a 16th

 

[Adam in WI]

You can tape off and then run a razor blade around the edge before cutting to eliminate chipping as well as an 80 tooth carbide tip blade.

That's a great idea, thanks. Thanks to all for the input

 

[ggshoots]

Also dont push it, let the blade do the cutting.

 

[6MMsteve]

A Forrest blade Hi ATB will slice...also some tape around the stock with cutting line marked on tape to reduce tearout and a sled with stock clamped

 

[Fast14riot]

I use 72 tooth, triple chip grind, 0° hook carbide tipped blades for anything I want a fine cut finish. Radial arm saw is best, but tablesaw works too. A blade with a thick plate reduces blade vibrations, chipping and cut-edge swirls. Look at solid surface blades.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

I quit using tape, and I don't usually prescore anymore. Don't find it necessary.
The blade I use is designed for MDF, I believe.
I do usually take a test cut a little ways back from the line, just to be sure. Every piece of wood is different. Better to find out if it's going to splinter sooner rather than later. If the test cut goes badly, tape and score, maybe even finish up with the disc sander.

 

[std7mag]

What's the preferred method for shortening a high gloss rifle stock such as those found on older Remingtons, Brownings, etc...? I've been using a table saw with a fairly fine blade, but I'm wondering what the experts use to keep from chipping the finish next to the cut. I've tried taping around the cut, but have still had a little chipping. Is my blade still to coarse, or should I be using something different?

The high gloss would worry me.
But I'm one that worries on things like that.
I'll check everything 6 times and still wonder if it's right before I start.
Bloody miracle I get anything done!

Saying that I would probably get @Bc'z advice also.

 

[Bc'z]

I really like the razor blade trick to cut the existing finish at tape edge.
I'd give the cut a lil wiggle room and block sand to the finish line to help prevent against blow outs. Wype super glue over exposed wood before pulling tape.

 

[mikecockcroft]

Blade stiffener helps for sure. I have a Delta Unisaw that is very heavy and stable. Build a simple jig out of plywood scraps that butts against the miter gage and clamp the butt to the jig. Shims and a little hot melt. Any movement or twisting of the stock while going thru the blade can cause a chip. Thinner blade not always better for material 1 in thick or more. In 30+ years of cabinet and trim work I have seen blades twist and bend while in use like you would never believe.

 

[Adam in WI]

As long as we're on the subject; does anyone have tips or tricks for repairing chips and scratches to these finishes?

 

[danny]

As long as we're on the subject; does anyone have tips or tricks for repairing chips and scratches to these finishes?

Maybe there are some techniques in here that can be adapted/used.

Danny

 

[Bc'z]

Maybe there are some techniques in here that can be adapted/used.

Danny

Some great tips in the video, after the razor blade technique I would suggest not doing the strip sand but using a hard stick and 600&800 grit, move to a rubber pad with finish papers before buffing.

I personally watched a Ford Sprinter van that had entire left side and rear doors painted get completely destroyed strip sanding with 800 grit. Looked like lil divots all over top to bottom.
Glad I didn't paint it, and did find great humor in it watching it get sanded down for respray.

 

[danny]

Some great tips in the video, after the razor blade technique I would suggest not doing the strip sand but using a hard stick and 600&800 grit, move to a rubber pad with finish papers before buffing.

I personally watched a Ford Sprinter van that had entire left side and rear doors painted get completely destroyed strip sanding with 800 grit. Looked like lil divots all over top to bottom.
Glad I didn't paint it, and did find great humor in it watching it get sanded down for respray.

That comment about strip sanding makes a lot of sense and that part seemed slightly iffy to me in a video that otherwise seemed good.

Danny

 

[RCE1]

I don't have a good circular saw, table saw or radial arm. I do have a pretty good old Delta band saw. Anyone use a bandsaw for this kind of cut?

 

[Bc'z]

I don't have a good circular saw, table saw or radial arm. I do have a pretty good old Delta band saw. Anyone use a bandsaw for this kind of cut?

Once...you can see blowouts on edge of butt, it wasn't a concern as I was painting stock.
Maybe use the razor and cut clear at tape line, band saw to cut near razor cut then block it to line with sandpaper?
I know it sounds like a lot, but your alternative is refinishing.
I'm all outta suggestions

 

[Fast14riot]

Bandsaw is not a precision saw for cutting to a specific dimension in my shop. Its for removing bulk material, close to the scribe line to then either sand or route to your finished dimension.