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Rust , rust everywhere!!

4x4forfun

Look this up on the internet for Rust removal. Kroil Oil, comes in a spray aerosol or liquid state. Apply a little on the bottom of your Bbl near the recoil lug. Pick up some four (OOOO) Steel Wool. The four ot Steel Wool will not scratch your surface because it so fine. But, just to calm your mind that it won't that's why I suggested to start on the bottom of your Bbl near the recoil lug. Apply a little Kroil Oil and use a small size piece of the
four ot Steel Wool. Rub this area with the SW, then use a paper towel to wipe off to clean. Once you see how well this works, continue to work the rest of your Rifle!

All the best from here.

Steve M.
sstkmkrr
Steel wool will remove the surface treatment.

Doesn't seem like the best idea, but Big 45 Frontier pads work really well. Looks like a coarse Brillo pad, but is made of some weird alloy that leaves bluing intact. That and some oil should do about as much as can be done without actually polishing and refinishing.

You can find them on EBay, Amazon, or direct from here: https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/
 
Call me ignorant, but I have never had to clean rust off of a firearm before. Newer Remington plastic stock el-cheapo. Covered in rust. What do I use to clean it? I pulled a bunch off using patches wet with BORE TECH, but it's obviously not meant for that.

Thanks,
Tod

Best stuff I have seen. If you can get a pan where you can submerge the object.
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess I should have asked my question differently.

In the video he uses copper items to remove rust. Is/would copper wool be better than steel wool at rust removal while leaving the bluing ?

Also, would brass wool be effective as well (removing the rust and not removing the bluing) ?

Thanks
 
There's a pad from Big 45 Frontier that looks like it would be death to any kind of firearms finish - it isn't. The coarse Brillo-looking pad is harmless to bluing, and removes rust like nobody's business. I highly recommend it, but if you have to order it, it may take too long. Available from the mfr, or on Amazon.
THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Plus you can wrap some around a loose brush and I haven't found anything better for removing lead fouling in a barrel...
 
Just plain 0000 steel wool wet with kroil or just about any thin solvent has been THE method for longer than I can remember. Just try it! It's the most proven method you're gonna find anywhere. I've used it on every blued finish you can imagine. The only one it's damaged it cold blue junk
 
Just plain 0000 steel wool wet with kroil or just about any thin solvent has been THE method for longer than I can remember. Just try it! It's the most proven method you're gonna find anywhere. I've used it on every blued finish you can imagine. The only one it's damaged it cold blue junk
Thanks.
My thought was copper, bronze and brass wool is a softer metal than steel wool and likely to do less potential damage.
 
When I was youngster working for an outfitter whenever someone had some surface rust out came the WD-40 and a soft clean washcloth. These were all firearms with bluing and it worked exceedingly well.

That said, apparently WD-40 makes it really difficult to follow up with a Cerakote application. Our youngest had some stuff cerakote'd and the guy said please don't use WD-40 on anything you want done, really hard to get the metal prep work done. I guess that's a testament to how well it gets into the metal.
 
Whatever it is it is not bluing, and the rust will be back, It's been my experience that once it starts there is no stopping it with that finish. I have decided they need Kg gun coat or something similar. Your milage my vary, in any case good luck!
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess I should have asked my question differently.

In the video he uses copper items to remove rust. Is/would copper wool be better than steel wool at rust removal while leaving the bluing ?

Also, would brass wool be effective as well (removing the rust and not removing the bluing) ?

Thanks
Brass wool will harm bluing. Don't ask how I know.
 
When I was youngster working for an outfitter whenever someone had some surface rust out came the WD-40 and a soft clean washcloth. These were all firearms with bluing and it worked exceedingly well.

That said, apparently WD-40 makes it really difficult to follow up with a Cerakote application. Our youngest had some stuff cerakote'd and the guy said please don't use WD-40 on anything you want done, really hard to get the metal prep work done. I guess that's a testament to how well it gets into the metal.
He should put them through 2 or 3 heat cycles like howa barrelled actions as the oil they use just keeps on keeping on out of the threads .
 
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Just plain 0000 steel wool wet with kroil or just about any thin solvent has been THE method for longer than I can remember. Just try it! It's the most proven method you're gonna find anywhere. I've used it on every blued finish you can imagine. The only one it's damaged it cold blue junk
I agree ...... now this is for others never and I mean never go anywhere near a firearm with one of the 3M green scouring pads had a mate about 30 years ago do that ...... what a mess that was .
 
EEZOX is one of the best. After you get the rust off use EEZOX according to the directions and your rifle will be protected. I’d put a wet patch of it through the bore too.
 
Many opinions on U tube. Here at the 2:00 mark

Don't know who is correct or not

 
Many opinions on U tube. Here at the 2:00 mark

Don't know who is correct or not

Lol! I hope that kid doesn't believe the finish is intact below the surface...below rust that has attacked the SUBSTRATE. Sounds that way. If a gun is in that bad of shape, ain't no brush nor steel wool gonna fix it. Yea, a little band aid but is that what this thread is about or about removing minor rust? That ain't minor and a brush ain't a fix, regardless of material. Google can be your friend but there are also morons out there that have no clue nor common sense. The brass brush is good if all you wanna do is remove as much as possible from the pitting without plans to actually fix the gun. It'll help that but the pitting will actually be deeper than before. Not a bad thing because it's gotta go before you can truly fix it, either way.

Maybe what we need is two things. One is pics of the rust that needs addressed but just as importantly, what fix or hox fixed do you want the end product. That video is ok for simply stopping damage that has gone way too far for steel wool and is only fixable if all damage plus surrounding material is removed down to bare and bright steel. That's why re-bluing a gun like that is pretty expensive if done right. This is really just common sense but I do understand initial concern with steel wool. Bottom line is, the damage, at some level is there. The fix depends on the level of damage and steel wool will help tremendously with minor surface rust. But, not for that level of pitting, at all. My advice is start with the least abrasive method, which is still likely the 0000 steel wool. If that doesn't give you a desirable result, progress to more aggressive approaches but expect some amount of damage quickly, even with brass if that rust and debris become embedded into the bristles, which WILL happen.
If steel wool doesn't fix it, go see a smith and see what they say based on your budget and expectations...both big factors.
 
Lol! I hope that kid doesn't believe the finish is intact below the surface...below rust that has attacked the SUBSTRATE. Sounds that way. If a gun is in that bad of shape, ain't no brush nor steel wool gonna fix it. Yea, a little band aid but is that what this thread is about or about removing minor rust? That ain't minor and a brush ain't a fix, regardless of material. Google can be your friend but there are also morons out there that have no clue nor common sense. The brass brush is good if all you wanna do is remove as much as possible from the pitting without plans to actually fix the gun. It'll help that but the pitting will actually be deeper than before. Not a bad thing because it's gotta go before you can truly fix it, either way.

Maybe what we need is two things. One is pics of the rust that needs addressed but just as importantly, what fix or hox fixed do you want the end product. That video is ok for simply stopping damage that has gone way too far for steel wool and is only fixable if all damage plus surrounding material is removed down to bare and bright steel. That's why re-bluing a gun like that is pretty expensive if done right. This is really just common sense but I do understand initial concern with steel wool. Bottom line is, the damage, at some level is there. The fix depends on the level of damage and steel wool will help tremendously with minor surface rust. But, not for that level of pitting, at all. My advice is start with the least abrasive method, which is still likely the 0000 steel wool. If that doesn't give you a desirable result, progress to more aggressive approaches but expect some amount of damage quickly, even with brass if that rust and debris become embedded into the bristles, which WILL happen.
If steel wool doesn't fix it, go see a smith and see what they say based on your budget and expectations...both big factors.
Thanks for the reply.
I went across the street last even to get a pic.
This is a shotgun that his Grandpappy left him. He asked me previously and I said it needed re-bluing (only way I knew to deal with rust). Then got to thinking, maybe I should know how to deal with this problem. That is why I am asking what would potentially do the least damage to the bluing ... copper, brass, bronze or steel wool (all 0000).
Thanks for your replies
 

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