Go to a livestock supply store and get a piece of horse stall matt. Tractor Supply is my local source.
This will make a good setup.Could you c clamp a piece of 2x4 to the front of the bench to stop the bipod from sliding forward?
i got a thin yoga pad and it worked really good just nowWe are shooting 22's so I have not worked much with bipods on bigger rifles but we find One layer is plenty I think it is maybe 1/4 inch? It is textured and grabs or slips or whatever it is doing just exactly right per our testing We struggled with "loading" the slop out of bipods--Hard to do the same every shot and we were doing6 cards with 25 bulls--No way to keep it up--we tested and tested and could find slop in all of the usual suspects--Harris style being the biggest offenders
Set your rifle up like you are ready to shoot --we use Protektor rear bags--then sit there on a stool and rock it fore and aft--then take the scope and go side to side--You will See where the slop is--usually in the rubber feet on most---in the leg joints on others, etc --Then we set it up on the Mystic and WOW! Solid as an anvil The Sinclair with elevation was sloppy also--when we screwed the elevation down Tight it went away--so we are just buying the standard ones now--
Getting the wiggle and slop no matter how small out of it insures you don't have to worry about loading--ain't no slop to take out --Try it you will be surprised. We went mid pack to winning once we figured this out--We still struggled with what was under the feet but tested our way out of it.
I have no clue if this means a thing with big booming rifles --like I said we are shooting 22 off concrete bench
We did experiment with gluing sand paper on the bottoms of things but the only place that paid off was on the thin wood spacers that we were using to tune rear bag height and we have since been ordering from Protektor many extra layers of the bottom they use--and gluing them on one by one to get out rear bag Exactly where we want them--Protektor gets $7 a pad and will add the suede to the bottom of one so you have a true bottom with grip--this has proven to be way better than a stack of stuff under the bag
This...^^^^^^^^^^A 1" cargo strap wrapped around the bench and lightly snugged down will give you something to load the bipod against
Looks like it would still "slide" when loading on concrete and slick surfaces, which was the original complaint.Without exaggeration I say this.
Get a Tubb bipod. It does not jump at all. It is next level.
africa-style! niceBecause you are "at the core" a hunter I am offering the following for consideration.
I too am at the core a hunter, these days varmints and predators. I'm old and have physical limitations making shooting in the prone, sitting or kneeing difficult at best and certainly not enjoyable. I also like to shoot a lot at the range but prefer practical range shooting that has real world applications.
For years I use a bipod (Harris) prone or sitting with good results. The only issues I had with it were getting ticks on me and in some areas where I hunt there is a lot of poison ivy. But the main issue I had was not all terrain I hunted was compatible with a prone bipod or even sitting. As I aged this style of shooting became problematic.
About 25 years or so ago, I switch to cross sticks shooting in the sitting position off a portable sportsman's chair. This proved, for me, to be the ideal solution. I can hunt any terrain and being elevated above the brush; I almost never have a lost shot opportunity. I stalk with this system since it light weight easily portable and I can deploy the system in less than a minute. I virtually have no shooting limitations with this system.
Almost all my range practice is in a simulated hunting position off the sticks and chair. For me this is a lot more fun and practical. While it took some dedicated practice and time to master a technique, I can do very well with this system. To date I have taken 2,014 groundhogs and over 100 predators with this system. When I hunted deer, I used this system and never missed a deer with it.
My sticks are home-made and at the time cost less than $20. They are made of 1/2 solid aluminum rod, custom length cut for my frame. Each stick has 12" of auto motive heater hose at one end to keep the rifle stable and prevent twisting. The other end is sharped to a point for secure seating in the ground. The sticks are bound with 3/4" Velcro. High adjustment is simply my changing the spread of the sticks.
It doesn't.Looks like it would still "slide" when loading on concrete and slick surfaces, which was the original complaint.
Me too.I use a thin mat from the kitchen section at target.
Pulling the gun into my shoulder as you describe has been the most beneficial change for me. This is the method taught by Frank with snipers hide. Watch their videos on YouTube about recoil management. I think the channel is shlowlite
A stock designed to recoil straight back helps a lot too.
I am soooooooo uncomfortable shooting prone. 10 or 15 shots and I am done for the day. Im working on that now, cuz where I can shoot 1 mile+ I have to walk in with my gear.
More or less except I shoot sitting on the chair which give me four points of contact, elbows on knees, feet flat on ground. Quite stable with one hand wrapped around sticks apply slight pressure reward and the shoulder apply slight pressure forward creating a "locked in" system. Like everything in shooting, consistency is the key to consistent shot placement.africa-style! nice
More or less except I shoot sitting on the chair which give me four points of contact, elbows on knees, feet flat on ground. Quite stable with one hand wrapped around sticks apply slight pressure reward and the shoulder apply slight pressure forward creating a "locked in" system. Like everything in shooting, consistency is the key to consistent shot placement.
I don't practice enough off the sticks and chair, but that is how I hunt predators and sometimes PDs too. My sticks open to a monopod, and I stand and use the open sticks a lot on jack rabbits. Been thinking of switching to a tripod, but they are so big and bulky.Because you are "at the core" a hunter I am offering the following for consideration.
I too am at the core a hunter, these days varmints and predators. I'm old and have physical limitations making shooting in the prone, sitting or kneeing difficult at best and certainly not enjoyable. I also like to shoot a lot at the range but prefer practical range shooting that has real world applications.
For years I use a bipod (Harris) prone or sitting with good results. The only issues I had with it were getting ticks on me and in some areas where I hunt there is a lot of poison ivy. But the main issue I had was not all terrain I hunted was compatible with a prone bipod or even sitting. As I aged this style of shooting became problematic.
About 25 years or so ago, I switch to cross sticks shooting in the sitting position off a portable sportsman's chair. This proved, for me, to be the ideal solution. I can hunt any terrain and being elevated above the brush; I almost never have a lost shot opportunity. I stalk with this system since it light weight easily portable and I can deploy the system in less than a minute. I virtually have no shooting limitations with this system.
Almost all my range practice is in a simulated hunting position off the sticks and chair. For me this is a lot more fun and practical. While it took some dedicated practice and time to master a technique, I can do very well with this system. To date I have taken 2,014 groundhogs and over 100 predators with this system. When I hunted deer, I used this system and never missed a deer with it.
My sticks are home-made and at the time cost less than $20. They are made of 1/2 solid aluminum rod, custom length cut for my frame. Each stick has 12" of auto motive heater hose at one end to keep the rifle stable and prevent twisting. The other end is sharped to a point for secure seating in the ground. The sticks are bound with 3/4" Velcro. High adjustment is simply my changing the spread of the sticks.
I use a cross sticks, two sticks bound with Velcro forming an "X" confirguration. While not as stable as a tripod, it is very portable, easy to deploy, significantly more stable than a monopod, and very easy and inexpensive to make.I don't practice enough off the sticks and chair, but that is how I hunt predators and sometimes PDs too. My sticks open to a monopod, and I stand and use the open sticks a lot on jack rabbits. Been thinking of switching to a tripod, but they are so big and bulky.
Mine are also homemade. Varmint Al Bi-fur pod. Had em almost 20 years now.I use a cross sticks, two sticks bound with Velcro forming an "X" confirguration. While not as stable as a tripod, it is very portable, easy to deploy, significantly more stable than a monopod, and very easy and inexpensive to make.