Carbon fiber cleaning rods!

[AckleymanII]

I prefer a slicker coefficient of friction than a carbon fiber rod provides, polished Stainless is the best, then plastic coated.

If you are going to wear a throat from 5 o'clock to 8 o'clock, it will be done faster with a carbon fiber rod.

 

[Bill K]

I use the Tipton CF and have for several years now and have had no issues in using it. Use it in my 17 & 20 caliber bores.

 

[searcher]

I think the small diameter carbon fiber rods like one suitable for .17 and .20 caliber can flex enough to be somewhat dangerous if not using prudence when using them. I have never broken one along the length of the rod, though can see how others might if forcing the rod improperly. I'd not do away with them because of this inherent potential danger - just like I won't get rid of my gunpowder, etc. The alternative is metal rods which also flex, though they stay flexed and add to abrasion if flexed too much. My last few rods purchased are Montana Extreme coated steel rods. I'm liking these a lot for the .17's and .20's. I may replace my other carbon fiber rods with these in larger calibers. I'll wait a while to see how long the coating lasts first. Everyone who has cleaned a lot with rods knows the first push through is the toughest in terms of flex with rods. On My .17 and .20 caliber barrels, when using the carbon fiber rods, it helps a LOT to drop a string pull-through cleaning rig through the barrel for the first one or two passes, well saturated with solvent or first run a loose nylon brush before a bronze brush, etc. The Tipton fiber rods are very economical (for fiber rods), though, in my experience, one can fully expect them to not last as long as a typical steel rod, due to the metal eventually separating at the fiber juncture, etc. I think the solvents eat away at the adhesive. I've successfully glued a few back on - but a few tips have broken when the separation occurred. I recently bought a Tipton which allows one to slide the handle up and down the shaft to adjust length - but haven't used it enough to formulate a worthy opinion. So far - I like it

 

[Mark611]

Tipton does sell a kit that comes with a bore guide, Dunno? Is somebody making a 1-piece SS rod that is plastic coated? I haven't purchased a cleaning rod in a very long time, that said I have an old Pro Shot 1-piece SS rod that I have used for years, I generally only clean out the carbon fouling from my barrels, I leave the copper in there, I only clean out the copper when my starts to go away! anyway, just re barreled a few guns with good barrels and thought I would ask your guys thoughts, so I don't damage them!

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I prefer a slicker coefficient of friction than a carbon fiber rod provides, polished Stainless is the best, then plastic coated.

If you are going to wear a throat from 5 o'clock to 8 o'clock, it will be done faster with a carbon fiber rod.

Worst thing to ever do with a steel rod is hit it with the palm of your hand to drive a tight patch or brush through, etc. Reality is, it happens.

 

[coldboreshot]

Im curious about the "abrasive particles" referred to, within this post. And if so, how would the cleaning rod gather those particulates when the intitial product going down the barrel, a patch of some sort, wet or dry. I would expect the patch to clear any so called particles first.
Call me stupid, but Im a little baffed by this. " And don't worry, I've been called worse".

 

[ebb]

Watched a guy cleaning a 6.5 Jody ( yea I didn't know what it was either, 6.5 with double radius shoulder) and he broke his Caldwell and could not get the stuck piece out and ended his day. Dewey smooth stainless with no coating, I guess its a copy of an Ivey. Do they still make rods and a matching bore guide??? That is definitely the best on the market. But I bet it comes with a matching price tag, they are a work of art.

 

[danny]

Ever checked to see how straight your cleaning rods actually are or aren't? Never seen a straight one yet. Stiller made some rf rods for a while that he claimed were very straight but went through an elaborate process to keep them as straight as possible. I haven't checked one of those but I take him at his word for it.

Good thing that you mention that about straightness. I had some bunches of pretty new SS rods and pretty much not even one was straight. Some were straighter than others. When I talk about "not straight", I am talking about about slight warpage, not something like if someone would have hooked the rod behind the rear bumper of a 1973 C 30 and gave it a pull. I was concerned that I somehow bent some of them, even though I could not figure how it might have happened

Danny

 

[danny]

Pro Shot fan here. I also like the Pro Shot patches. I seldom use a brush except to be sure all the abrasive cleaner is out, that's 3 or less 1 way strokes.

I am a Pro Shot guy too, but Dewey and to a lesser degree Kleen Bore make good rods if Pro Shot does not have a specific configuration.

Danny

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Good thing that you mention that about straightness. I had some bunches of pretty new SS rods and pretty much not even one was straight. Some were straighter than others. When I talk about "not straight", I am talking about about slight warpage, sot something like if someone would have hooked the rod behind the rear bumper of a 1973 C 30 and gave it a pull. I was concerned that I somehow bent some of them, even though I could not figure how it might have happened

Danny

I think a fair number have enough bend in them to create SOME light contact with the bore without any pressure applied. Of course bore size plays a role. Some rods cover several calibers and will have more or less clearance, accordingly. Probably hurts nothing if clean but you can bet if it's bent a tad bit, that's where it'll bend MORE with pressure. And, of course longer bbls are gonna suffer the most as the rod will bear harder and harder against the bore with pressure and length. We truly are an anal bunch but there's nothing wrong with being as near perfect as we can in this game, or many other examples. I suppose it'd be a pretty simple test to see where your rod touches but I'd bet almost all touch the bore to some degree with a tight fitting patch OR brush. Not talking TOO tight but just good fitting. It really doesn't take much at all. Heck, I can bend my BR rifle bbls with light finger pressure...some.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Im curious about the "abrasive particles" referred to, within this post. And if so, how would the cleaning rod gather those particulates when the intitial product going down the barrel, a patch of some sort, wet or dry. I would expect the patch to clear any so called particles first.
Call me stupid, but Im a little baffed by this. " And don't worry, I've been called worse".

It happens. Of course a brush will do so more than a patch but just wipe the rod off after a couple of passes with a brush and it's very plain to see. Not chunks hopefully, but that black color on your rag is debris with solvent. Oh, and abrasive cleaners are a whole different level!

 

[Turkeytider]

Tipton CF on Amazon around $40 They are great for the $$ Love mine

Really like mine too. Develop the habit of wiping the rod before each pass down the barrel and use a guide.

 

[6MMsteve]

I've used Parker Hale, John Dewey, Tipton, Pro Shot, Bore tech, I like Pro Shot, Bore Tech, Tipton, I use my Pro Shot the most, then BT which ever one I grab...Tipton works great tossup

 

[varget204]

What would be the advantage of a CF cleaning rod?

They can't damage the the bore,they remain straight, can't Damage the bore, steel rods can,carbon are lighter

 

[BobT]

We used Tipton rods in the little gunsmith shop I worked in and they seemed to work okay. We did have one break but no damage to anything other than the rod.

 

[brokeasajoke]

At work we run some rapier weaving machines whose rapiers (tapes) come out a distance of 3ft or so and back up to 10 times per second. They are roughly 25mm wide and 2.5mm thick. These may be made of higher quality carbon fiber (if there is different grades) but we polish the tapes that run this fast on sensitive easily abraded yarn used for creating cloth for boat sails. We polish these with a diamond based sandpaper I believe. I mean they have to be stupid slick and smooth. They have a high gloss sheen when done. This paper will also polish chrome on my tools. I may buff my Tipton rods with some of this sandpaper. Can't tell you what it is as the machine company sells it to us with nothing but their part number on it. I pick up discarded pieces and slightly used ones. PS: Carbon splinters from these guys SUCK.

 

[209jones]

The carbon wrap will eventually cause some wear if it hits on one spot enough times, highly unlikely to ever happen in a barrel, as it doesn't last long enough to clean it enough times to do it. I wore the fork tips down on stainless Golden Key snake tongues & prongs, with Easton ACC carbon wrapped arrows, but, that likely took 10-15k shots, or more. Also depends on the finish they use on the wrap and how smooth it really is.

 

[coldboreshot]

It happens. Of course a brush will do so more than a patch but just wipe the rod off after a couple of passes with a brush and it's very plain to see. Not chunks hopefully, but that black color on your rag is debris with solvent. Oh, and abrasive cleaners are a whole different level!

I guess I would be more concerned with a dirty sizing die wreaking havoc on the surface of a brass case than any coated or CF cleaning rod against a 416 SS barrel bore.

 

[nettle]

I use bore guides for all my guns. I like a nice rod but I think CF might be of little benefit too me.

 

[Tangent]

I use a CF Tipton rod and it has been fine. If I need so much force that it might break I'll be checking my patch isn't too big. With a bore guide I'm not particularly concerned about any wear. I just take my time. My best tip is a plastic 2 litre bottle over the end of the barrel, may need a trim for those truck axels! Catches all the patches and any spray from brushes as they exit and allows me to clean inside rather than the cold shed.