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Lapua .284 brass problem

I’m wondering if anyone else is experiencing my problem. I’m shooting a .284 in F class , i used Lapua 6.5 x 284 brass necked up to 7mm with no problems. Reloaded multiple times, still in good shape. I bought Lapua straight.284 brass and I am on 3rd and 4th reloading and the cases are showing signs of a case head separation. So far 27 cases out of 100 show signs on 4 th firing and so far 3 on their 3rd. I’m not a rookie, I’ve been loading precision ammo for over 30 years. The headspace is .002 over the go gauge. I bump the shoulders back .002 on the cases. My load is not hot at all, I’m using H 4831 sc and my velocity is only 2760 with a 28 in barrel and their is no sign of pressure on the primers. I anneal every other firing. I have 200 of the same lot. Is anyone else having issues.?
 
Did you check headspace measurement when the brass was new? I’ve seen brand new brass be say .006” to .007” shorter on headspace vs a different lot and or vs a different brand.

That doesn’t mean the brass is bad.

So from what I’m getting out of it is the brass is stretching more for some reason and or being worked to much on resizing after firing.

What powder charge are you loading it to and what bullet are you loading? You gave your velocity and you don’t think it’s a hot load etc… But that doesn’t mean it‘s not.

I’ve run the 284win with what I will call hot loads. I pushed it hard and after 3 firings the Lapua brass primer pockets you could tell where getting loose after those three firings. I wouldn’t use the brass after that. Again doesn’t mean the brass is bad… I was just pushing it to hard in this case. I’ll guarantee my loads were past 65k. Probably more around the 70k to low 70k range.

You could have a combination of things going on.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
If you havent tried this, strip the bolt, back your sizing die out, and try the sized case in the chamber. The bolt should not close or be tough to close. Keep bumping it back until you just get a clean close and see how the cartiridge base to shoulder compares to what you have been loading. As Frank mentioned, some new factory brass has the shoulder set back a lot farther than you might think or want.
 
If you havent tried this, strip the bolt, back your sizing die out, and try the sized case in the chamber. The bolt should not close or be tough to close. Keep bumping it back until you just get a clean close and see how the cartiridge base to shoulder compares to what you have been loading. As Frank mentioned, some new factory brass has the shoulder set back a lot farther than you might think or want.
That’s how I set my die. Bolt just closes on sized case but won’t close if I put scotch tape on back of case.
 
I’m wondering if anyone else is experiencing my problem. I’m shooting a .284 in F class , i used Lapua 6.5 x 284 brass necked up to 7mm with no problems. Reloaded multiple times, still in good shape. I bought Lapua straight.284 brass and I am on 3rd and 4th reloading and the cases are showing signs of a case head separation. So far 27 cases out of 100 show signs on 4 th firing and so far 3 on their 3rd. I’m not a rookie, I’ve been loading precision ammo for over 30 years. The headspace is .002 over the go gauge. I bump the shoulders back .002 on the cases. My load is not hot at all, I’m using H 4831 sc and my velocity is only 2760 with a 28 in barrel and their is no sign of pressure on the primers. I anneal every other firing. I have 200 of the same lot. Is anyone else having issues.?
Man that is not a hot load at all. I only run the Lapua straight .284 win brass and I’m on my 7th firing with absolutely no culled pieces and zero signs of any issues.
Dave
 
Kinda ironic that you ask. My straight 284 only lasted 5 and 6 times reloading. I did push the brass pretty hard in the beginning. 2830fps in the beginning before slowing it down. That brass was bought approx 1 1/2 to 2 years ago…. It was 284 brass not 6.5x284
 

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2830fps in a .284 win is by no means “pushing it hard”
 
The picture you show is likely a result of using a sizing die that is not closely matched to the chamber. You are working the brass too much and likely causing clickers prior to the brass failing about the .200 line like you show in the picture.
 
284 lapua brass problems

 
284 lapua brass problems

Fireforming of brass should never be done while jumping bullets as is stated above. Bullets should always be jammed when fire forming new brass.
Dave
 
Did you check headspace measurement when the brass was new? I’ve seen brand new brass be say .006” to .007” shorter on headspace vs a different lot and or vs a different brand.

That doesn’t mean the brass is bad.

So from what I’m getting out of it is the brass is stretching more for some reason and or being worked to much on resizing after firing.

What powder charge are you loading it to and what bullet are you loading? You gave your velocity and you don’t think it’s a hot load etc… But that doesn’t mean it‘s not.

I’ve run the 284win with what I will call hot loads. I pushed it hard and after 3 firings the Lapua brass primer pockets you could tell where getting loose after those three firings. I wouldn’t use the brass after that. Again doesn’t mean the brass is bad… I was just pushing it to hard in this case. I’ll guarantee my loads were past 65k. Probably more around the 70k to low 70k range.

You could have a combination of things going on.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Last year I got some .308 Lapua for my 7-08 MOA pistol the shoulder was horrendously short
I didn't get a measurement but after setting my fl die to just closing action approximately .020
step between false shoulder and the shoulder on brass
 
Fireforming of brass should never be done while jumping bullets as is stated above. Bullets should always be jammed when fire forming new brass.
Dave
So Dave, I’m just getting into 284 Shehane, my first experience with a wildcat, necking up, fireforming, etc.
Let me see if I’m grasping this, you jam into the lands on seating and use a reduced load to avoid overpressure when fireforming?
My experience so far was all pistol, 308, and 6.5PRC.
Thanks,

Ray
 

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