Case scratches

[dsweaver]

So here's my issue I just bought a bunch on new Norma 270wsm brass. I tumbled it in acorn with polish, preped and loaded 25 or so and went and shot them. Came back to the barn deprimed them and tumbled them for 5hrs. Went to size them and noticed they were getting scratches very fine ones 360° around the case. I immediately stopped and cleaned the die, re oiled the die and tried again. Same outcome, I then took my bore scope and noticed verticle marks in my die. I took 600grit sandpaper and oil like Redding recommended scratches went away. Took a piece of brass after I cleaned the die again and same outcome scratches all over. Repeated the same sanding method and cleaning method but then took my winchester and remington brass i had and had no issue. But as soon as I put norma brass in that was one shot it messed my die up. Can anyone help. Redding FL die set.

 

[6.5 forever]

Norma brass is very hard.
I had a brief experience where I wasn't letting my case lube dry and had scratches on my case. I started letting the case lube dry a half hour before sizing and the problem stopped.

 

[dsweaver]

I've been using rcbs I'm switching to imperial

 

[K22]

Sounds like Norma brass is the culprit.

I would try Imperial Sizing Wax. I have found nothing better, if applied properly, for sizing cases. A tin will last you several thousand sizing's.

With that said, as a hunter, I have scratches on some of my cases due to feeding via magazine in some of my rifles. I can detect no affect at all on target. As long as the chamber is smooth enough to allow easy chambering and extraction, I wouldn't worry about it. If you start messing with the sizing die you may do more harm than good.

 

[Tod Hendricks]

You can use a shotgun bore mop in a drill with buffing compound to polish the die.

I’ve found Dillon spray lube has better lubrication than imperial, it’s an easy side by side test, the Dillon lubed cases had less resistance.

 

[6.5 forever]

You can use a shotgun bore mop in a drill with buffing compound to polish the die.

I’ve found Dillon spray lube has better lubrication than imperial, it’s an easy side by side test, the Dillon lubed cases had less resistance.

Agreed. Just let the Dillon dry a bit.

 

[jwv2001]

When I started reading your post, I thought right away that you were using Redding dies. Long story short, the dies are out of spec. I'm surprised their customer service told you to polish the brass. I had the same problem with Redding. I called customer service. They blamed my rifle and everything I could have done to create the problem, but in the end the die was out of spec. To solve this problem, send the dies back and let them polish them and never buy Redding junk again.

 

[dsweaver]

When I started reading your post, I thought right away that you were using Redding dies. Long story short, the dies are out of spec. I'm surprised their customer service told you to polish the brass. I had the same problem with Redding. I called customer service. They blamed my rifle and everything I could have done to create the problem, but in the end the die was out of spec. To solve this problem, send the dies back and let them polish them and never buy Redding

 

[dsweaver]

Do you think it's the die if it's been work for a year or so with winchester and remington brass flawlessly? Just now only having issues when switching to norma brass

 

[jwv2001]

Do you think it's the die if it's been work for a year or so with winchester and remington brass flawlessly? Just now only having issues when switching to norma brass

There might be some small dimensional difference with the Norma brass, but the die shouldn't scratch it in any circumstance.

 

[Eagle Six]

This is what I would do. I wouldn't work on the die rather leave it as is for now. I would give the die a very good cleaning. Assure the brass is free of dust or dirt. I would change my lube. I would preload the die and give the die and brass at least 5-10 minutes air time before sizing.

I have had brass in the past I had to change lube. It's an easy fix before exploring other options. I have used wax, Dillon, RCSB, Hornady one-shot and probably 10 others over the years and they all work, some better than others. Currently I'm using One-Shot aero and it works fine provided it air dries for several minutes. If I had you problem with my Redding die and one-shot I would try Dillon or another lanolin type.

 

[Eagle Six]

OBTW, the scratches are probably worse than your photos depict, but if they were mine I would shoot'em!

 

[Webster]

Norma brass is very hard.
I had a brief experience where I wasn't letting my case lube dry and had scratches on my case. I started letting the case lube dry a half hour before sizing and the problem stopped.

Right on, It's usually a lube problem. Some guys are still asking if they should lube the neck and shoulder. The dies don't have a brain , they don't know what brand cases your puting in them. Case hardness shouldn't determine whether you get scratches. Hard brass is still pretty soft.

 

[fkimble@charter.net]

tumbled them for 5hrs

Fairly clean bolt gun brass cases don't need anywhere near 5 hours to clean/polish! What kind of polish are you using? What type media are you using? Are you wiping the cases off after polishing? Dump 'em on an old towel, flip end of towel over them and using your palms roll them around for a minute or so to remove the dust left from the polishing media.

Frank

 

[J_idaho]

Harder brass equals more force to size. I’ve seen this with new rcbs dies quality isn’t what it used to be. Just look inside die you probably didn’t get it all buffed out.

 

[searcher]

You can use a shotgun bore mop in a drill with buffing compound to polish the die.

I’ve found Dillon spray lube has better lubrication than imperial, it’s an easy side by side test, the Dillon lubed cases had less resistance.

That Dillon lube is the best spray lube I've tried. Good stuff.

 

[Berrnard]

So here's my issue I just bought a bunch on new Norma 270wsm brass. I tumbled it in acorn with polish, preped and loaded 25 or so and went and shot them. Came back to the barn deprimed them and tumbled them for 5hrs. Went to

this long is just wasting time. is it really acorn or do you mean walnut?
my brass has never been dirty enough to need a hard media and i tumble for 90m tops, usually 60m. i prefer corn cob but that just personal pref with nu finish or iosso is my favorite.

 

[dsweaver]

this long is just wasting time. is it really acorn or do you mean walnut?
my brass has never been dirty enough to need a hard media and i tumble for 90m tops, usually 60m. i prefer corn cob but that just personal pref with nu finish or iosso is my favorite.

Sorry I meant corn cob and flitz idk I honestly think even at 5hr they still look dirty. I know guys who leave them overnight and don't have any issues at all.

 

[Rube Shooter]

Sorry I meant corn cob and flitz idk I honestly think even at 5hr they still look dirty. I know guys who leave them overnight and don't have any issues at all.

I leave them in until they're shiny using straight corn cob media, sometimes for way more than an hour, never really keep track of the time.
Be careful though, this could turn into a thread like the one where people complained about bumping ads in the for sale forum.

 

[dsweaver]

I leave them in until they're shiny using straight corn cob media, sometimes for way more than an hour, never really keep track of the time.
Be careful though, this could turn into a thread like the one where people complained about bumping ads in the for sale forum.

Ya tbh I throw them in when I have other things to go do I've never been worried about time management with cleaning brass unless it was with a steel pin tumbler then pay attention to time. But that's also not what this thread was about unless I'm over cleaning my brass and that's what's causing my die to scratch my brass now. But I don't think that's the case.