More crap I don't need: Vintage Sniper - M40 Edition.

[BillC79]

For the CMP matches I have shot at., firearms are inspected and triggers tested for compliance with regs before you get a score sheet that is approved for shooting on the line/competition. I understand that the CMP wants to assure that all shooters are on the same playing field with era appropriate rifles. Regardless of competition, it is fun to see how well you can shoot with the rifles our brothers/fathers/grandfathers shot in their day.

 

[LVLAaron]

I know they like to keep it authentic... It's funny that a brand new Rem700 action from walmart passes muster but not a 722 thats literally pre-vietnam

 

[louc757]

I contacted Brian Williams at the CMP since I am also working on a M40 replica for CMP competition and am unclear of allowable build details.
1. Minimum trigger pull is 2.5 lbs as for all US bolt sniper rifles used in CMP games.
2. Only metal or hard plastic butt plates are allowed.
3. No bolt extractor modifications are allowed.

After reading the specs and getting the response from CMP, I do not think that use of a Remington 722 receiver will be allowed. You might double check with CMP if you haven't done so already.

I also contacted Brian about barrel contours. we can add this:
4. Any barrel contour, max length 24” with an .850 max muzzle diameter.

I had Aaron re-chamber an old F Class Heavy Varmint FTR barrel to those specs. He did a great job, the rig hammers, 0.84” waterline at 500 yards (I did cheat and put on the Vortex Golden Eagle for load development

 

[DR_2297]

I also contacted Brian about barrel contours. we can add this:
4. Any barrel contour, max length 24” with an .850 max muzzle diameter.

I had Aaron re-chamber an old F Class Heavy Varmint FTR barrel to those specs. He did a great job, the rig hammers, 0.84” waterline at 500 yards (I did cheat and put on the Vortex Golden Eagle for load development

Add NO Rem-Age barrels to the list. Single or 2 stage triggers OK.

 

[LVLAaron]

The finish was almost gone, so I gave it a dunk in the cold blue, and installed a gretan firing pin assembly. A lot smoother now.

Barrel is in the lathe... all the boring stuff to happen this weekend.

 

[LVLAaron]

Got a coat of epoxy in it - Probably should have waited, but it was just calling for a greasy finger print and I wanted to protect it a bit.

 

[Uncle Bruce]

Got a coat of epoxy in it - Probably should have waited, but it was just calling for a greasy finger print and I wanted to protect it a bit.




View attachment 1517357

That is Pretty cool. Awesome wood.

 

[RCE1]

I got a nice faux Marine Sniper from a local guy who builds them up as close to spec as possible. Springfield Armory 1903 rifle, "match" barrel, scope blocks and a Chinese (Hi-Lux) target scope, which isn't that awful, actually (with a little fiddling). I was pleasantly surprised when 5 shot groups hovering around 1 moa were easily achieved with no load development to speak of.

I have a bunch of other target scopes but wanted to see how the Hi-Lux performed. The mounts are a little funky, but usable. Maybe I'll throw a Unertl or Lyman STS on there some day.

 

[LVLAaron]

It's ready for the hard part.

Al, my guest bedroom is ready if you're in the neighborhood

 

[Jud96]

It's ready for the hard part.

Al, my guest bedroom is ready if you're in the neighborhood



View attachment 1517668

Bedding is the hard part for you? I struggled with it when doing a good bit of experimenting in my techniques. Now I found a method that works really well for me and gives great stress free results and isn’t overly messy or complicated.

 

[LVLAaron]

It's not "hard" - The hard part is the prep and that's done. I'm still developing the eye for how much glue to use. I always use WAY too much, which makes cleanup a nightmare. I'm gettin there.

 

[LVLAaron]

Should be a good one. And if it's not, I'll never tell you.


FWIW: I ordered a new batch of Pro Bed, and saw they sell a set of 3 seachells, I mean stainless butter knives... I thought for 10 bucks, why not. Works very well to scoop from each container and then apply to the bedding. Worked a lot better than tongue depressors.

 

[DR_2297]

I am way more messy than you! No crevice left unfilled

 

[LVLAaron]

Didn't come out perfect, but I think I'll run it.

The tang area glue siphoned down the pillar ID and made the edges ugly. Probably doesn't matter. If it were for someone else I'd stuff a cotton ball or something around the guide that runs through the pillar to stop the glue from running down. :/

 

[LVLAaron]

Cut the safety notch... Stared at the bedding... will cut it and skim it. I can't tolerate it.

 

[Henryrifle]

That looks pretty darn good! Nice work. Can you show more of the stock finish. What little you show looks good. What epoxy product do you use?

Thank you,
Hank

 

[LVLAaron]

Hank, I use Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy. I thin it with a splash of acetone so it soaks into the wood really well. After a few days, I sand it back down to the surface. Then spray it with clear coat and sand/polish/buff.


I'm debating sending the action to LRI for certakote.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

The finish was almost gone, so I gave it a dunk in the cold blue, and installed a gretan firing pin assembly. A lot smoother now.

Barrel is in the lathe... all the boring stuff to happen this weekend.


View attachment 1517076

those old receivers are works of art.

 

[Skedaddle Shooter]

Hank, I use Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy. I thin it with a splash of acetone so it soaks into the wood really well. After a few days, I sand it back down to the surface. Then spray it with clear coat and sand/polish/buff.


I'm debating sending the action to LRI for certakote.

Sure would look good reblued in that walnut stock.

 

[LVLAaron]

Coming together. Stock needs a little more sanding and a top coat