butchlambert
Site $$ Sponsor
Chuck, if I do it the way you are saying, it gets further away.
How do YOU sight in your rifle?
- Thread starter Triggernosis
- Start date
If
Crosshairs on bull.
Fire
Put crosshairs on the hole you just made.
Turn the crosshairs to the bull.
When you first fire say it was high and to the left
Put the crosshairs on that bullet hole
Turn the turrets until they are on the bullseye
Chuck
Butch, every time I do this I have to stop and think.
Crosshairs on bull.
Fire
Put crosshairs on the hole you just made.
Turn the crosshairs to the bull.
When you first fire say it was high and to the left
Put the crosshairs on that bullet hole
Turn the turrets until they are on the bullseye
Chuck
Forend position on the front bag is critical, along with bag hardness. Front bag should be firm but not rock hard. Resting on the forend tip may be causing your whip. For sporters, I place my front rest just forward of the chamber area.
Funny you should ask. This is the time of the year I enjoy a lot because I spend a lot of time helping deer hunters' sight in their rifles. Most are once a year at the range guys, decent guys but know little to nothing about sighting in a hunting rifle. Just yesterday while at the range, I helped two. One poor fellow was using a Led Sled with predictable results. The other was making scope adjustments base on one shot at a time making back and forth scope adjustments - a real mess.
First thing I recommend is get rid of the Led Sled. Second, set up a standard front and rear rest. This is to get you on target at the desired point of impact. The best rest I've used is the Caldwell Tack Driver front rest. Rear rest should be one of those "owl ear" sandbags. Conventional sandbags can work but a professional standard front and rear rest is better.
Remove the sling. Or make sure the sling is not under the forearm resting on the front rest, I see this a lot. If you are using another type of front rest versus the Tack Driver, I recommend holding the forearm at the junction just behind the front rest to minimize free recoil effect which will often causes the rifle to shoot differently than in a hunting hold position. This is especially true of light, heavy recoiling rifles.
For deer hunters hunting in PA, I recommend a 1 1/2 inch high 100 yards sight in for most bottle neck rifle cartridges. Shoot a 3 shot group allowing the barrel to cool between shots. Determine the center of the group and adjust the scope accordingly. Shoot another 3 shot group and make the final adjustment. This will suffice for most deer hunters. A 2-moa final group centered is sufficient for most deer hunters in PA. In other words, you don't need a tack driver.
For me, I always make the final scope adjustment based on the way I will used the rifle in the field. For me, that is shooting off cross sticks. This makes a significant difference for critters with a small vital area such as varmints and predators - not so much for big game at distances 200 yards and under. However, I spend over 100 days a year at the rifle range, so I am not the normal shooter/hunter.
Regardless, after initial sight in, I encourage hunters that I coach to take five carefully aim shots at 100 yards in the manner in which they will use the rifle in the field. If nothing else, it shows them what their real field capabilities are versus a bench group. Most are not skilled enough marksmen to make scope adjustments based on these five practice shots since they can't shoot a group worthy of making a scope adjustment. Therefore, I recommend that they just go with the bench sight in.
After the initial sight in, a useful alternative is to have them shoot five shots off the bench holding the rifle like they would in the field with their hand gripping the forearm of the rifle and resting on a front rest or sandbag with no rear rest. This will give them a representative sight which will be more realistic than a conventional bench (front and rear rest) sight in.
First thing I recommend is get rid of the Led Sled. Second, set up a standard front and rear rest. This is to get you on target at the desired point of impact. The best rest I've used is the Caldwell Tack Driver front rest. Rear rest should be one of those "owl ear" sandbags. Conventional sandbags can work but a professional standard front and rear rest is better.
Remove the sling. Or make sure the sling is not under the forearm resting on the front rest, I see this a lot. If you are using another type of front rest versus the Tack Driver, I recommend holding the forearm at the junction just behind the front rest to minimize free recoil effect which will often causes the rifle to shoot differently than in a hunting hold position. This is especially true of light, heavy recoiling rifles.
For deer hunters hunting in PA, I recommend a 1 1/2 inch high 100 yards sight in for most bottle neck rifle cartridges. Shoot a 3 shot group allowing the barrel to cool between shots. Determine the center of the group and adjust the scope accordingly. Shoot another 3 shot group and make the final adjustment. This will suffice for most deer hunters. A 2-moa final group centered is sufficient for most deer hunters in PA. In other words, you don't need a tack driver.
For me, I always make the final scope adjustment based on the way I will used the rifle in the field. For me, that is shooting off cross sticks. This makes a significant difference for critters with a small vital area such as varmints and predators - not so much for big game at distances 200 yards and under. However, I spend over 100 days a year at the rifle range, so I am not the normal shooter/hunter.
Regardless, after initial sight in, I encourage hunters that I coach to take five carefully aim shots at 100 yards in the manner in which they will use the rifle in the field. If nothing else, it shows them what their real field capabilities are versus a bench group. Most are not skilled enough marksmen to make scope adjustments based on these five practice shots since they can't shoot a group worthy of making a scope adjustment. Therefore, I recommend that they just go with the bench sight in.
After the initial sight in, a useful alternative is to have them shoot five shots off the bench holding the rifle like they would in the field with their hand gripping the forearm of the rifle and resting on a front rest or sandbag with no rear rest. This will give them a representative sight which will be more realistic than a conventional bench (front and rear rest) sight in.
Last edited:
Butch, my post #19 said it was confusing.
I hope I didn’t fuck this up
Re-read and let me know if I did
Have I mixed this up at the range? Yup. And I watched shot number two get further away
I really do have to re-think each time I use this system. But it works. I wish I could be clearer in my explanation
I hope I didn’t fuck this up
Re-read and let me know if I did
Have I mixed this up at the range? Yup. And I watched shot number two get further away
I really do have to re-think each time I use this system. But it works. I wish I could be clearer in my explanation
I think I wrote this original answer at 2AM this morning.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
I have had “moments” at the range with scope adjustment. Up is screw down or up? Bullet impact or crosshairs? Sheesh….I’m getting old! Who’s on first!
Join the club.
This is when you’ll see a temper spike that’s a sight to behold.
I’ve been shooting since I was 9 years old.
One would think I’d have a 100% handle on it by now, and I’m no youngster
Front and rear rest. Bore sight and One shot at 25, scope turrets have a Up arrow and a RT arrow. If 1/4 clicks there are 16 to the inch at 25 yards. Adjust scope and move target to 200yds. One shot and adjust scope, 1/4 clicks means 2 to the inch. When you are satisfied, fire a 2 shot group and re-adjust if necessary. 1 click move impact 1/2 inch. Remember your group will never get smaller after the 2nd shot. I move the target to 250 and 300 and record the - results. Then move target to 100 and 150 and record the + results. I try to call shots and , if necessary, I'll fire a third or fourth round.
I've tried the "put scope on bullet hole and adjust". Short of putting the rifle in a vise, I can't hold it steady enough to work. IMHO you need all the trigger time you can get.
Disclaimer: You need an accurate rifle and a good scope, if you are shooting a $300 package deal your results will vairy.
I've tried the "put scope on bullet hole and adjust". Short of putting the rifle in a vise, I can't hold it steady enough to work. IMHO you need all the trigger time you can get.
Disclaimer: You need an accurate rifle and a good scope, if you are shooting a $300 package deal your results will vairy.
The last rifle I did was at 600 yards. Bore sight to get close. Then an assistant on a spotting scope behind me walks me in. Took 4 shots to get centered up. Prone with sling.
Unless something is really wrong with the rifle, shoot of front and rear bags or any other solid rest. It sounds like you are dealing with a cartridge with some recoil. Use foam earplugs, then put muffs over them. It will really reduce the noise, which increases perceived recoil. Then, use a Past strap on recoil pad. These two steps will contribute to improved shooting for most novice shooters. Further improvements in shooting can be had by reducing trigger pull weight so that the rifle can be fired without jerking the trigger. With the rifle in rest/ bags, I bore sight - remove bolt and look down bore at a 3” circle at 25 yards. get crosshairs on the bullseye. Shoot to confirm, then dial in at 100 yards.
A good shooter can fire a shot, set the rifle in the rest aimed at the same aiming point, and then adjust the crosshairs to hit where the shot went. That should get the rifle close
A good shooter can fire a shot, set the rifle in the rest aimed at the same aiming point, and then adjust the crosshairs to hit where the shot went. That should get the rifle close
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
The 2 shot method
1. Fire one shot
2. Crosshair on SAME aiming point as first shot(bullseye)
3. Have someone adjust scope turret until crosshair moves to the BULLET HOLE
4. Adjust on turret is OPPOSITE of bullet hole location.
A. Low right bullet impact, turret turned UP to bullet hole elevation
B. LEFT turret adjustment until crosshair intersects bullet hole.
Firearm must remain stationary thru adjustments.
typically zero low 1" ish at 25 yards.
Slightly high, .25-.6 at 50 yards, usually 200 yard zero.
True zero is the center of a 3-5 shot group. I set my zero 1 click (1/4") left of center at 100 yards as most barrels are right hand twist.
1. Fire one shot
2. Crosshair on SAME aiming point as first shot(bullseye)
3. Have someone adjust scope turret until crosshair moves to the BULLET HOLE
4. Adjust on turret is OPPOSITE of bullet hole location.
A. Low right bullet impact, turret turned UP to bullet hole elevation
B. LEFT turret adjustment until crosshair intersects bullet hole.
Firearm must remain stationary thru adjustments.
typically zero low 1" ish at 25 yards.
Slightly high, .25-.6 at 50 yards, usually 200 yard zero.
True zero is the center of a 3-5 shot group. I set my zero 1 click (1/4") left of center at 100 yards as most barrels are right hand twist.
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
I will have to respectfully disagree with you. If I am 3 inches low and 3 inch right, I need to dial up 3 inches, which lowers my reticle on the target when I continue to hold at my previous point of aim to the bullet impact location. Same on the windage.
CSLR grandpa
Gold $$ Contributor
Good morning on this sight ( Simple 4 shot sight in method ) gets the scope adjustment done in 2 if your position is solid.
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