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77’s or 80’s SMK

Bottom Fodder

Starting to play with 223 bolt gun with a 1/7 twist short barrel this will be just a fun gun for steel maybe to 300 but mostly 200 and under
I have 500 77 and 500 80’s I have some 322, 335 and CFE 223. I heard that the 77’s seam tune easier but I have never really fooled with the 223 much.
open for advice but after reading the “pet load“ I sure would not ask for yours but if you post it well!
kinda interested in which bullet weight you would start with
open to any feed back.
 
For the most accuracy the 80 should be jump tested to find the best base to ogive and should be able to tune very easy. 10. 20 and 30 off would be a great start. Of course if you are shooting for known distance targets and wanting X's.
Steel at 300 its going to depend on how small a steel plate at 300? less than 3" then tune the 80.
The SMK 77, just seat it at 2.25 COAL and load it will shoot to 600 yds great.

I do not load those powders so no help that, just the projectile.

A 69 SMK will fly really nice at 200-300. Just a tid bit for minor cost shavings in the future.
 
A 7 twist is good for the heavy bullets, 75/77, 80/80.5 and the 90s. Your powders are more suited for the lighter bullets but I sure we will get a lot of "they work great" replies also. Out to 300 if it isn't windy, I just use the 52/53 match bullets. The 68/69's would be a great compromise!

Frank
 
Im trying to use component I have that I don’t need for something else
like the 77 and 80 grain bullets and the powders I listed along with some BR 4 primers.
thanks for repleys and keep it coming
 
23 grs of CFE223 should be a good starting point with 77 gr bullet. I m shooting 25.5 with my long seated 75 Eldm. (2.460 oal)
 
Bottom Fodder said:
Starting to play with 223 bolt gun with a 1/7 twist short barrel this will be just a fun gun for steel maybe to 300 but mostly 200 and under
I have 500 77 and 500 80’s I have some 322, 335 and CFE 223. I heard that the 77’s seam tune easier but I have never really fooled with the 223 much.
open for advice but after reading the “pet load“ I sure would not ask for yours but if you post it well!
kinda interested in which bullet weight you would start with
open to any feed back.
Click to expand...
How short is the barrel and is it a 223 Remington SAAMI chamber or something else?
 
Like I stated in the beginning about this project The goal was to come up with a load for short barreled 223 Bolt action for fun gun shooting steel out to 300 yards with bullets, primers and powder that have a supply of that I didn’t need for anything else. And I think I reached my goal. I don’t base anything on just one range day but today was the 3rd range day with the same load and all three days produce multiple 1/2 Moa groups at 100
Which about as good as I can do with anything.

The bullets 80gr. Smk which have about 1k of

The primers Br4 which I don’t use in anything else and have almost a full brick

The powder H322 which from what you read is better suited for light bullets, but for me it works with the 80 and I have 5 pounds of it.

Brass Lupua which I had 200 new

Even though I’ve not taken to 300 yet I feel sure if I do my part no problem banging steel out to 300. So in my mind I reach my goal and not use up my supply’s that need for other guns.
I’ve not checked the speed yet will do later
And not listing the load because it’s Near Max for a 223 bolt gun
But I will say don’t rule out H322 for heavy’s in the 223
Thanks for all input given
 
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rebs said:
How long, how far off the lands ?
Click to expand...
The optimum is determined by test, in your gun, with you driving it.

Even if the OP told you his numbers, you should know they won't help you unless you are shooting his gun.

Keep in mind, it isn't a rare context to say that fine jump tuning gives little or no advantage to performance.

Even nearly identical pattern Palma rifles have their own tune but will shoot decent with their neighbor's ammo. To shoot their absolute best, they get their own tune.

Many folks will spend all their time frustrating themselves trying to turn a factory rifle into a competitive bench rest rig.

They would have been happier if they just stopped and made a bunch of decent ammo and learned to shoot and read wind.

The OP is only asking to go to 300 yards with informal shooting. The first goal is to drill 20 to 40 shots into 2 MOA, then as time goes on he can work on getting it down to 1 MOA, and by then they will have a better idea of what it takes to get them all into 0.5 MOA at 300. That has as much or more to do with range time versus loading bench time.

On occasion, there are folks who can drive well enough to get there before the first barrel is done. Most folks will be into the second barrel, and that barrel will typically not be a factory rig. Other folks will never get there because they spend all their time at the loading bench trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. YMMV
 
RegionRat said:
The first goal is to drill 20 to 40 shots into 2 MOA
Click to expand...

Indeed. This is the point that most people realize they don't shoot as well as they thought.:p

My suggestion to OP, load up some moderate loads in both, say 30-50 each and just go shoot them so you get a feel for the round. I would do that even before working up a ladder. If you have a chrono/dopler, that much better, mark down the results.

KW
 
RegionRat said:
The optimum is determined by test, in your gun, with you driving it.

Even if the OP told you his numbers, you should know they won't help you unless you are shooting his gun.

Keep in mind, it isn't a rare context to say that fine jump tuning gives little or no advantage to performance.

Even nearly identical pattern Palma rifles have their own tune but will shoot decent with their neighbor's ammo. To shoot their absolute best, they get their own tune.

Many folks will spend all their time frustrating themselves trying to turn a factory rifle into a competitive bench rest rig.

They would have been happier if they just stopped and made a bunch of decent ammo and learned to shoot and read wind.

The OP is only asking to go to 300 yards with informal shooting. The first goal is to drill 20 to 40 shots into 2 MOA, then as time goes on he can work on getting it down to 1 MOA, and by then they will have a better idea of what it takes to get them all into 0.5 MOA at 300. That has as much or more to do with range time versus loading bench time.

On occasion, there are folks who can drive well enough to get there before the first barrel is done. Most folks will be into the second barrel, and that barrel will typically not be a factory rig. Other folks will never get there because they spend all their time at the loading bench trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. YMMV
Click to expand...
That’s why I didn’t give anymore detail than I did. This was only telling that I had a goal with this one gun and in my eyes I reached it and I’m sure not saying this is a “pet load” that will working in anybody’s gun
im a firm believer that “one size don’t fit all”
but I did say that these components will in MY gun will do what I won’.
land yes I plan on playing a little more with seating depth and a few other thing that would only matter to THIS gun. And give a little insight that you can’t get supply’s for Your “ pet load” they could be an alternate if you put forth the effort
at least it gave a break from the Garmin vs. Labradar
 
Bottom Fodder said:
at least it gave a break from the Garmin vs. Labradar
Click to expand...
Amen...having bought a Labradar not long ago, I would certainly rather have the smaller Garmin, but at least I have the Labradar. So every time I see one of those threads it rubs salt into my wound. The upside is that the Labradar will fill my needs just fine.;)

Seriously though, in the past I put too much into ladders when I first took on a new cartridge and it is good just to get out and shoot some rounds to get a feel for it, IMO. We're all different though, and all of our mileage vary. There are so many factors with seating depth, powder drop, primers, even bullet itself to really conclude anything without a lot of testing. It is why most people find a load they like and stick with it, IMO.

I would add, in regard to 223 I always found Varget to be one of the more forgiving powders for it. I always loaded for 5.56. Great components for that round. But makes me curious, when does 6.5 Grendel start to make sense??? (just tossing a monkey wrench out there) One could argue how much more efficient the 6.5 Grendel is in the mini-action.

EDIT: if you're looking for a tack driver, consider re-chambering to 22 Creedmoor or 224 Valkyrie, probably wouldn't cost that much to have a gunsmith do that for you. Also good if you can do that yourself.:cool:
 
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