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Stock paint stripping ideas?

AlNyhus

Silver $$ Contributor
I've got a used McMillan here that has some nice paint on it but it's chipped and scratched. I'd like to get the old stuff off but it's pretty durable...a base/clear color that's pretty tough. It's also pretty thick and heavy.

The thought of sanding it gives me the heebie jeebies. Any mild strippers out there that would do the work and not risk the original gel coat? I'll likely do a wrap on it so I'm not concerned on the final look. I'll also be rebedding and pillaring it so no concerns there. I've heard that soda blasting can be effective and safe?

Looking forward to your experiences....thanks in advance! :) -Al
 
Citis Strip gel works well on Marlin old Marsheld finish.
Sprayed on wrapped in a plastic bag and left to warm in the sun.
A stiff nylon brush on the tough spots spray a wrap again.
Wash with very hot water and TriSodiunPhosphate.
But that is for Marlin.
 
I've got a used McMillan here that has some nice paint on it but it's chipped and scratched. I'd like to get the old stuff off but it's pretty durable...a base/clear color that's pretty tough. It's also pretty thick and heavy.

The thought of sanding it gives me the heebie jeebies. Any mild strippers out there that would do the work and not risk the original gel coat? I'll likely do a wrap on it so I'm not concerned on the final look. I'll also be rebedding and pillaring it so no concerns there. I've heard that soda blasting can be effective and safe?

Looking forward to your experiences....thanks in advance! :) -Al
Al, set about 4 hours aside for this.
I start with 80 grit and a 4" block, start sanding until you feel your arms are about to fall off and then sand some more.
I use straight punches, arrow shaft and whatever else I can find for mechanically stripping the stock details.
After 80 grit is fine I go back over it with 150grit before primer.

Now There is an easier way.....
Because your going to wrap or dip the stock, stripping isn't necessary.
Block sand really good with a 180-220,
2 part spot putty any chips or scratches with a single edge razor blade leave putty proud when spreading, block sand flat, prime prep, and wrap.
 
Al, the stripper made specifically for plastic bumper covers has never hurt one that I've used it on yet. But like Brett said, as long as it's sound in terms of existing adhesion, I'd probably sand and fill them. The problem I've seen a few times with stocks is invariably, somebody just had to try some Krylon themselves and that'll ruin adhesion, long and short term, It's fun when you're sanding, all is going well and then you find another color under there somewhere and it reacts with your sealer/primer etc. That's a good time to strip, imo.
 
I've known this stock from new so no surprises under the existing color...you can see the gel coat under the chips. Grey primer over the gel coat, then multiple layers of candy red metallic followed by many layers of clear. The paint and clear probably weighs 4 ounces! o_O
 
I've known this stock from new so no surprises under the existing color...you can see the gel coat under the chips. Grey primer over the gel coat, then multiple layers of candy red metallic followed by many layers of clear. The paint and clear probably weighs 4 ounces! o_O
Al if you want to talk to someone about media or soda blasting there is a little place at hyway 42 and Tea-Elis road that does it. A warning, it will peal off bondo and rust like nobody's business. So I don't know how gell coat will hold up.
 
I have sand blasted boat fiberglass to remove blisters with no ill effect to surrounding gelcoat. Like akajun mentioned.....just don't dwell too long.

A $35 blasting kit from Harbor Freight should work......I used a similar Sears setup for the blister blasting years ago. image_11227.jpg
 
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Got it stripped today. Multiple primer coats, at least two coats of silver base, then 3-4 coats of House Of Colors candy red followed by multiple coats of clear.

Goof Off brand aerosol 'Grafitti Remover' worked really well. Very effective but mild to the outer gel coat.

Good shootin' -Al
 
I can't believe that you would be more comfortable blasting your stock with any type of media that would take the skin off versus hand sanding. It's simply not logical. Believe it or not, I would start out with 80-grit to remove the existing paint layer. You can progress to finer grits but 150 is plenty smooth. Anything finer, and you're depending only on a chemical surface bond with your paint - surface irregularities are what you need for a durable mechanical lock with your paint. Even with that, I always add 2-3 solid coats of Acra-kote or clear Alumahyde.
 
While we are on the subject, what would be recommended to strip the finish from a Factory stock, in particular, the Browning Stock I am using on my Mauser project.

I have no idea what Browning used. The stock is probably 40+ years old.

sanding is pretty much out of the question due to the abundant checkering.IMG_2321.jpeg
 
While we are on the subject, what would be recommended to strip the finish from a Factory stock, in particular, the Browning Stock I am using on my Mauser project.

I have no idea what Browning used. The stock is probably 40+ years old.

sanding is pretty much out of the question due to the abundant checkering.View attachment 1486502
Government mandated the removal of methylene chloride from paint strippers. I haven’t found one that even comes close to what they were.
 
Jackie, I've had good luck removing the 'bowling ball' high gloss finishes on Remington 700 and Browning B78 stocks with Citri Strip. It can take a few applications for the checkered areas....the basket weave and fleur de lis checkered 700 stocks will sure test my patience. A satin finish like the Sako oil finished stocks is pretty nice. -Al
 
Heat guns work well
Also if you have a furniture restoration company in your area that has a stripping machine it’s worth it to send it there. Think a parts washer for wood
 

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