AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
All my 30BR's have been cleaned the same way for years....at the end of each yardage. That's about 60 rounds for me at 100 with the warm up target. At 200, it's about 80 rounds including the warm up.
Lucas bore guide, Dewey coated rod, two wet patches of Butch's, 10 slow passes with a looped end bronze brush with Butch's, patch that out, then one more wet patch of Butch's and let it soak. Patch that out and dry the chamber before the next yardage. Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy.
At the end of the day, I repeat and after patching out the last wet Butch's patch, I put a wet patch of Hoppe's #9 down for protection. The Hoppe's slow working action also works on any small amount of copper that might still be present. If the gun is going in the safe muzzle up when I get home, I plug the chamber with patches so the Hoppe's doesn't migrate down and creep past the front action screw threads.
Im a strong believer in having a sharp 60 degree cut on the leading edges of the lands to help guide the brush back in the muzzle. The crowns last a long, long time done this way and offers protection if the rod is pushed too far out the muzzle...which should really be avoided.
Also, smoothing the junction of the jag or brush adapter to the ferrule on the end of the rod so there's no sharp edge helps. Most don't look at but can it act as a saw edge....just run your fingernail over the junction to check it.
I don't leave the range without cleaning except occasionally from my local range. Then I'll put some Wipe Out in from the chamber end at home and let it soak at home before patching it out and repeating. Keeps the smell down in my sod hut.
Good shootin' -Al
PS: When testing different powders, I clean before moving to a different powder. I've proven to myself several times that not doing this can influence the results.
Lucas bore guide, Dewey coated rod, two wet patches of Butch's, 10 slow passes with a looped end bronze brush with Butch's, patch that out, then one more wet patch of Butch's and let it soak. Patch that out and dry the chamber before the next yardage. Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy.

At the end of the day, I repeat and after patching out the last wet Butch's patch, I put a wet patch of Hoppe's #9 down for protection. The Hoppe's slow working action also works on any small amount of copper that might still be present. If the gun is going in the safe muzzle up when I get home, I plug the chamber with patches so the Hoppe's doesn't migrate down and creep past the front action screw threads.
Im a strong believer in having a sharp 60 degree cut on the leading edges of the lands to help guide the brush back in the muzzle. The crowns last a long, long time done this way and offers protection if the rod is pushed too far out the muzzle...which should really be avoided.
Also, smoothing the junction of the jag or brush adapter to the ferrule on the end of the rod so there's no sharp edge helps. Most don't look at but can it act as a saw edge....just run your fingernail over the junction to check it.
I don't leave the range without cleaning except occasionally from my local range. Then I'll put some Wipe Out in from the chamber end at home and let it soak at home before patching it out and repeating. Keeps the smell down in my sod hut.

Good shootin' -Al
PS: When testing different powders, I clean before moving to a different powder. I've proven to myself several times that not doing this can influence the results.
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