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drilling rifle bullets to improve terminal ballistics

How about the guy several years ago on this website that asked about annealing bullets. Keep it simple.
Welcome to the world of social media - just scan the articles on the shooting sport on the net and you will find some completely "off the wall" assertions.

I believe all this stuff originates because shooters are looking for the "silver bullet", a short cut, instead of facing the most significant factor of all in the shooting sports - the shooter himself. It seems a lot of shooters do not want to train anymore, just blast away.

The more practical the shooting discipline - the more the shooter becomes the key factor. I witnessed it for about 30+ years shooting NRA competitive precision pistol (bullseye in the old vernacular). When you're holding a pistol with one hand, shooting the slow fire stage at 50 yards it can be humbling. Then add in the rapid-fire stage, 5 shots in 10 second, one handed, and you realize that the best equipment in the world isn't going to matter if you haven't mastered the fundamentals of shooting.
 
I keep my bullets segregated by lot number, weigh them and measure them base to ogive looking for uniformity, these steps are for my long range bullets 600 to 1000 yds.
Other than pointing or trimming the meplat leave them alone!
Steve Bair
 
Drilling rifle bullets? Are you kidding or is this real? I thought I've seen and heard everything but this one wins the prize. With all the high-performance bullets on the market today why would anyone even consider doing something like this?

Sorry, but I can't help commenting on this because some poor new shooter is going to try this, I'm afraid.
And lets add more Bullet Drilling !!!! 45 ACP .230gr. FMJ. Drill the Tip and insert a Primer ???
 
I have previously posted elsewhere about drilling rifle-bullet tips to improve terminal ballistics, a practice that's been around since at least when Dr. Martin Fackler (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Fackler), founder of the US Army's Wound Ballistics Laboratory, experimented with it and documented the results in a 1995 article in the Wound Ballistics Review. (Hollow-tipped bullets have been around for over a century. I don't know if manufacturers have ever drilled bullets to create a hollow tip.)

Some hunters continue to hunt with target bullets, and even some hunting bullets, that don't expand effectively. (The Berger 156-grain 6.5mm Extreme Outer Limits bullet is an example. Per a Barbour Creek video on YouTube, that bullet travels over a foot in ballistic gel before initiating expansion. Most Berger hunting bullets similarly tested in YouTube videos start expanding an inch or two into the gel.) Drilling such bullets properly can improve their terminal ballistics for hunting. Without intending to advocate for this practice in any particular case, I have prepared the attached document about the history of the practice, and about my own procedure and successes doing it.
I am sure you can buy a bullet that works well for hunting any size animal.
 
When I was a kid, I decided that drilling holes into my cast lead pistol bullets was the answer to turning them into rapidly expanding small game bullets (.44 Magnum). I, like you (but far less scientifically), "tested" them on many rabbits. Despite having shot many rabbits, it became apparent that all the rabbits squarely hit with the .44 croaked - whether it with my "improved" bullets or not. When shot with a jacketed hollow-point pistol bullet designed to expand and stay together, they died much more quickly (and spectacularly). I learned that altering a bullet not designed for the job didn't make it as good as one that was. Like you - I had a lot of time on my hands back then.
 
These are from a year or so ago....

Which,set some ideas in motion that whilst still not quite there,are in fact closing in. Sometimes digging into areas that some may consider to be bad juju.... it's the tangential information that "may" pay bigger benefits. I spin, cast bullets in certain applications looking for any anomalies... and they do show up,and it does show up on paper. Hence my question on balance.

I'm now in the position to trim cast bases to within, .0005" which wasn't the original idea or notion but was simply a by product. Keep testing,,keep digging for info,and good luck with your project.

Screenshot_20230728-051025_Gallery.jpg

Yes bases.... not points.
 
When I was a kid, I decided that drilling holes into my cast lead pistol bullets was the answer to turning them into rapidly expanding small game bullets (.44 Magnum). I, like you (but far less scientifically), "tested" them on many rabbits. Despite having shot many rabbits, it became apparent that all the rabbits squarely hit with the .44 croaked - whether it with my "improved" bullets or not. When shot with a jacketed hollow-point pistol bullet designed to expand and stay together, they died much more quickly (and spectacularly). I learned that altering a bullet not designed for the job didn't make it as good as one that was. Like you - I had a lot of time on my hands back then.
Your experience doesn't surprise me. Flat-tipped mono-metal pistol bullets create a large temporary wound cavity (rather than fragmenting) by driving a large pressure wave in front of the bullet on impact. I'm sure that's a very effective way to kill a rabbit--evidently (per your report) better than any fragmentation produced by drilling the same mono-metal pistol bullet and hoping for fragmentation. (See e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_ballistics#Flat_point or https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/The+Effects+Of+The+Meplat+On+Terminal+Ballistics.html.) Perhaps there's not much fragmentation because the bullet isn't going fast enough to fragment when it hits a soft target.

A pointed, jacketed, cup-and-core high-powered rifle bullet hits the streets going about three times as fast as a pistol bullet, and carries its velocity a lot better than a flat-tipped pistol bullet. Putting a hole in the tip lets the jacket peel away from the core on impact. A bigger hole creates more edge to catch and pull the jacket away from the core, and I believe more pressure inside the tip pushing the jacket outwards. The higher speeds of rifle bullets mean the forces pulling and pushing on the forward edge of the jacket are greater than they would be on a pistol bullet. So drilling the rifle bullet's tip affects its terminal ballistics very differently.

I do a lot of varminting with a 22-250 AI and a 243 Win. (Responding to those who suggest I practice shooting rather than tinkering with bullets: this past summer I made 95% of my shots on prairie dogs out to 350 yards in 5-20 mph crosswinds. I doubt most of you can shoot any better, and I really doubt most of you shoot hundreds of rounds a year at varmints alone.) My Nosler and Hornady varminting bullets have plastic tips plugging fairly large-for-caliber holes that result in great external and terminal ballistics both, the latter because the hollow-tipped bullet expands explosively on impact. My Sierra varminting bullets don't have the plastic tip--just the large-for-caliber hole in the tip. Either way: the faster the bullet and the larger the hole in the tip, the more explosive the impact (that is, the more rapidly the bullet expands on impact). Varminters who want to preserve their coyote pelts use full-metal jacket bullets (pointed tips with no hole at all) precisely because the lack of a hole results in the bullets not expanding on impact. They poke tiny holes that a good taxidermist can easily repair and hide. (Some coyote hunters tell me they hunt with 223s for the lower muzzle velocity. They don't want the explosive impact of a light, frangible bullet going really fast.)

The same thing happens on big-game animals. Other things being equal, a bigger hole in the tip of a cup and core bullet results in the jacket peeling away from the core more rapidly on impact. So if you have a cup-and-core bullet that opens too slowly on impact for your taste, you can alter the terminal ballistics by trimming the meplat or drilling the tip (or both). Of course, you can also just buy a different bullet, as many on this forum have rightly suggested. But if you've bought several hundred cup-and-core bullets for hunting, and you discover they don't perform the way you want, or if you just really like the external ballistics of a particular target bullet and wish they had good terminal ballistics, all hope may not be lost.
 
Seems to me if maybe you can do this with extreme precision in a cnc lathe or something, might be ok. If not, just select a different bullet. With the selection of projectiles these days, it just seems silly.
 
I always read with some amusement the level of reverence foreigners have for Nathan Foster. Nathan is a master at self promotion, not that he has any monopoly on that in today's world, but the opinion of various high-level hunters round here is that Nathan would have to have lived three lifetimes to have actually shot all the game he claims he has. He does well it seems selling his rather complicated rifle bedding kits, with a few disciples promoting it.
 
I always read with some amusement the level of reverence foreigners have for Nathan Foster. Nathan is a master at self promotion, not that he has any monopoly on that in today's world, but the opinion of various high-level hunters round here is that Nathan would have to have lived three lifetimes to have actually shot all the game he claims he has. He does well it seems selling his rather complicated rifle bedding kits, with a few disciples promoting it.
Maybe you overlook he is also a hunting guide so while not taking the game himself he witnessed the kill and the terminal performance, be it good or poor.

Nearly finished a 2nd of his books with a couple more to go, all of which have been borrowed.
 
Your experience doesn't surprise me. Flat-tipped mono-metal pistol bullets create a large temporary wound cavity (rather than fragmenting) by driving a large pressure wave in front of the bullet on impact. I'm sure that's a very effective way to kill a rabbit--evidently (per your report) better than any fragmentation produced by drilling the same mono-metal pistol bullet and hoping for fragmentation. (See e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_ballistics#Flat_point or https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/The+Effects+Of+The+Meplat+On+Terminal+Ballistics.html.) Perhaps there's not much fragmentation because the bullet isn't going fast enough to fragment when it hits a soft target.

A pointed, jacketed, cup-and-core high-powered rifle bullet hits the streets going about three times as fast as a pistol bullet, and carries its velocity a lot better than a flat-tipped pistol bullet. Putting a hole in the tip lets the jacket peel away from the core on impact. A bigger hole creates more edge to catch and pull the jacket away from the core, and I believe more pressure inside the tip pushing the jacket outwards. The higher speeds of rifle bullets mean the forces pulling and pushing on the forward edge of the jacket are greater than they would be on a pistol bullet. So drilling the rifle bullet's tip affects its terminal ballistics very differently.

I do a lot of varminting with a 22-250 AI and a 243 Win. (Responding to those who suggest I practice shooting rather than tinkering with bullets: this past summer I made 95% of my shots on prairie dogs out to 350 yards in 5-20 mph crosswinds. I doubt most of you can shoot any better, and I really doubt most of you shoot hundreds of rounds a year at varmints alone.) My Nosler and Hornady varminting bullets have plastic tips plugging fairly large-for-caliber holes that result in great external and terminal ballistics both, the latter because the hollow-tipped bullet expands explosively on impact. My Sierra varminting bullets don't have the plastic tip--just the large-for-caliber hole in the tip. Either way: the faster the bullet and the larger the hole in the tip, the more explosive the impact (that is, the more rapidly the bullet expands on impact). Varminters who want to preserve their coyote pelts use full-metal jacket bullets (pointed tips with no hole at all) precisely because the lack of a hole results in the bullets not expanding on impact. They poke tiny holes that a good taxidermist can easily repair and hide. (Some coyote hunters tell me they hunt with 223s for the lower muzzle velocity. They don't want the explosive impact of a light, frangible bullet going really fast.)

The same thing happens on big-game animals. Other things being equal, a bigger hole in the tip of a cup and core bullet results in the jacket peeling away from the core more rapidly on impact. So if you have a cup-and-core bullet that opens too slowly on impact for your taste, you can alter the terminal ballistics by trimming the meplat or drilling the tip (or both). Of course, you can also just buy a different bullet, as many on this forum have rightly suggested. But if you've bought several hundred cup-and-core bullets for hunting, and you discover they don't perform the way you want, or if you just really like the external ballistics of a particular target bullet and wish they had good terminal ballistics, all hope may not be lost.
Yeah - always nice to try and make use of bullets lying around that might otherwise not be used. There are days when I shoot well over 1,000 to 1,200 rounds per day at ground squirrels. But - where I usually shoot - the shots usually start about 200 yards out and the norm is probably 300-450. Right now, I'm trying to work up a load for some 34-grain .20 caliber bullets that aren't up to my usual level of satisfaction in how they shoot. And I bought a box of 5,000. 1/2" MOA is all I have been able to get out of them and that pretty much guarantees a 30% miss rate, even when I'm doing everything right. Those suckers are only 1 1/2" diameter or so when young. I'll try some more powders and tricks to see what can be done.
 
Open tipped lead core bullets have better terminal ballistics than closed tip. This is a known, well established, 120+ year old fact, recorded in the Anglo-Boer war, when Boer soldiers cut the tips off their Mauser cartridges. The British were sufficiently annoyed by this to execute any captured Boer soldier with "dum-dum" bullets on the spot.

When you take a target bullet, and remove the tip, you have a fragmenting target bullet, not an expanding hunting bullet.

You could use that to hunt, but it would have to be a much smaller animal than you would typically hunt using a hunting bullet of that weight for that caliber. It's useful to know what caliber, bullet weight, velocity, hunting distance and animal is being referred to in these types of discussions. Chopping the end of your Nosler Custom Comps to shoot squirrels, for example, means you can successfully and ethically hunt with the bullets.

A target bullet does not have a thicker jacket than a hunting bullet.

A hunting bullet is designed to hold together under impact, a target bullet is designed to fragment on impact.

Using target bullets for the higher BC to be able to make longer shots on game opens the ethics discussion. How far is unethical ?

You can decide what distance for yourself by honestly answering these questions :

1. can you reliably place a kill shot at that distance
2. will your bullet retain enough energy to make a quick kill if placed correctly
3, can you reliably find the animal for a follow-up shot if you wound it

Should you drill holes in your target bullets, you've destroyed the bullet concentricity, changed the bullet weight and distribution around the bullet axis, as well as diminished the BC. Not something you can expect long range accuracy from, so why hunt with it.
Some good points. But our HUNTING BULLETS have a slightly THINNER JACKET than our TARGET BULLETS. This is to help resist the heat and friction of string fire.
PS. An animal (or human) will continue to function util the brain runs out of oxygen. Even if they are "dead" on their feet.
 

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