Krazy Kloth Alternative - For case neck carbon

[perazziguy]

If you overlay it with hoppes it smells better.

Hoppes mixed with anything smells good!

 

[Schippergreg]

Krazy cloth is my preferred, followed by never dull. The Krazy cloth removes the carbon from the neck and provides just enough lube to size a ppc or br case, 2 birds with 1 stone. I buy the larger size off of amazon and cut it into smaller pieces. 1 piece will pretty much last me all day at a match.

 

[6Creed73]

Someone educate me on this. All the years I've been reloading, I've never manually cleaned carbon off brass. I wet tumble for 3 hours and they come out carbon free. Is there an added benefit to manually cleaning the carbon before tumbling?

 

[Bugs]

I satarted with Krazy Kloth, then steel wool, and..... snert NAILED IT. Red Scotchbrite pad is the best. And one lasts for a looooong time.

Same here but I use a gray colored scotchbrite pad that my buddy who runs a body shop gets for me. I think it leaves a slightly smoother finish than the red ones.

 

[Schippergreg]

Someone educate me on this. All the years I've been reloading, I've never manually cleaned carbon off brass. I wet tumble for 3 hours and they come out carbon free. Is there an added benefit to manually cleaning the carbon before tumbling?

In short range benchrest we load at the range and often will use the same 20 cases for a whole 2 day match. For me a quick twist in Krazy cloth ior never dull then size and uniform the primer pockets and your ready to load again.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

How about Naptha on a cloth?

 

[6Creed73]

In short range benchrest we load at the range and often will use the same 20 cases for a whole 2 day match. For me a quick twist in Krazy cloth ior never dull then size and uniform the primer pockets and your ready to load again.

Ah, ok that makes sense

 

[DaWhit]

Has anybody tried C4 on a cloth to clean necks?

I cut a Mr Clean Magic Eraser into sections. Put a couple drops of C4 on the eraser and spin the case by hand while keeping the case centered on the eraser with the thumb of my other hand.

Takes only a couple spins with very little thumb pressure to get the majority of the carbon off. I tried C4 on a cleaning patch and it took a lot more effort and they still weren’t as clean as the eraser gets them. I set them in a case block and then wipe the dried residue off after all the necks are cleaned with a paper towel before putting them in the tumbler.

Took maybe 6 drops to wipe down 37 cases and this was after sitting for a day. Run the eraser under a faucet while the C4 is wet and nearly all the carbon rinses out. You can cut away the worn section of the eraser as it gets worn down. Probably did a couple hundred cases with this section with plenty of life still left in it.

 

[DocBII]

DaWhit,

You're correct about the Magic Eraser being a go-to product like Dawn and Lemi-Shine for sonic cleaning. I've used them to clean a bunch of items like coolers, various plastics and enamel surfaces with baked on carbon. I haven't been willing to try them as a bore patch yet, but they might work well and last for more than one use on a jag. If I get to a point where I've worn out another barrel, I'll test it on cleaning.

Good idea,
DocBII

 

[JEFFPPC]

Same here but I use a gray colored scotchbrite pad that my buddy who runs a body shop gets for me. I think it leaves a slightly smoother finish than the red ones.

Yes, gray is less aggressive.

 

[rebs]

I put my cases in the tumbler with crushed walnut shells and cheap car polish for about half an hour and the cases are clen and carbon is gone.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Had 50 ish 22-250 brass fired in a suppressed rifle. Tried the chucked up, 0000 steel wool trick. 2-3 seconds, neck,shoulder clean and shiny. Ready to lube and size. Ran through the die real easy.

 

[BoydAllen]

Someone educate me on this. All the years I've been reloading, I've never manually cleaned carbon off brass. I wet tumble for 3 hours and they come out carbon free. Is there an added benefit to manually cleaning the carbon before tumbling?

Most of my reloading has been at the range for a Light Varmint weight 6PPC. I usually am working with less than 25 cases that get used over and over, so there is no opportunity for anything in the way of tumbler or vibrator cleaning. For those times when have the day shooting varmints, I clean the necks at the end of the day, so as to make it a low effort operation. It is not that I am opposed to other methods at all, but they do not fit into how I shoot and load.

 

[Dave M.]

Someone educate me on this. All the years I've been reloading, I've never manually cleaned carbon off brass. I wet tumble for 3 hours and they come out carbon free. Is there an added benefit to manually cleaning the carbon before tumbling?

Yes, not cleaning the carbon off the inside of the necks.

 

[Dave M.]

I cut a Mr Clean Magic Eraser into sections. Put a couple drops of C4 on the eraser and spin the case by hand while keeping the case centered on the eraser with the thumb of my other hand.

Takes only a couple spins with very little thumb pressure to get the majority of the carbon off. I tried C4 on a cleaning patch and it took a lot more effort and they still weren’t as clean as the eraser gets them. I set them in a case block and then wipe the dried residue off after all the necks are cleaned with a paper towel before putting them in the tumbler.

Took maybe 6 drops to wipe down 37 cases and this was after sitting for a day. Run the eraser under a faucet while the C4 is wet and nearly all the carbon rinses out. You can cut away the worn section of the eraser as it gets worn down. Probably did a couple hundred cases with this section with plenty of life still left in it.

View attachment 1466685

Holy turning marks Batman !!!

 

[DaWhit]

Came with the gun.‍

 

[Dave M.]

Came with the gun.‍

I’d re-cut those by just taking a very fine skim cut…maybe .0002-.0003” to clean up the marks.
Dave

 

[Dimner]

I tried just a Itty bit of nu finish car polish on a quarter of a shop paper towel. This was even better than the steel wool and/or grey scotchbrite pad. I think I'll keep half a pad in my range bag and use the nu finish when I run into this at home.

My test was range pickup brass shot from an M1 garand. Brass that I have had for a year. With the tiny amount on the towel, I was able to do all 40 that I had and it cleaned it like the case and carbon was still minutes new after shooting.

The perfect amount of easy, cheap, and clean.

 

[divingin]

I started using Krazy Kloth on a batch of brass for my second short range 6BR brass after quite a while using steel wool. Worked great, but after 10 or so firings, I started getting vertical cracks in the necks between the case mouth and the neck/shoulder junction. They didn't reach either the neck or the junction; just showed up in the middle. I can't say for sure this was caused by the KK, but it's the first time I've seen this failure (and it happened on maybe 20 out of 200 pcs), never had that on the first barrel using steel wool (cut with the same reamer as the 2nd.)

Since going back to steel wool on the problem brass, the occurrence has diminished; another set of brass (different chamber) that has only seen steel wool has had zero failures.

 

[BoydAllen]

Yes, not cleaning the carbon off the inside of the necks.

I think that this discussion has been about the outsides of necks. For the insides, I run a brush in and out twice and call it good, never tumble or vibrate, just do the outsides of necks with 0000 after firing.