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School me on chronographs...

Call me a Luddite, but I've been using an Oehler 35 (a 35P with no printer) for the better part of 4 decades now. If you shoot a skyscreen (it happens) they've gone from $25 back then to $45 more recently. There was a problem early on but it was repaired free of charge. A few months back it started getting odd readings for no reason & losing its mind when touched. A 3 minute phone call & the problem was resolved with green Scotch-Brite & rubbing alcohol. It just keeps on tickin'. Oh... it reads over 4000fps too if you have that need. I believe they're still cheaper than Labradar. I've got setup down to a quick science so if there's other shooters, they dont whine. No smart phone or computer needed. Kinda like paper reloading manuals... always there in a pinch.

The only thing that's less than wonderful is in the winter, when the sun starts getting low after 2pm odd readings happen. Prior planning is a good thing. I see them pop up in classifieds from time to time for a good price & may have to get a spare one day. Nuthin' lasts forever, except old Fords & natch'l stone.
Still using my Oehler model 33. Bought about 1975. Keeps on ticking. I use it very seldon any more. To much trouble to set up. I have enough data. Don't need a lot of drop tables since all my loads are 3500-3580. Seldom shoot beyond 300 yards. The 33 and 35 use the same screens just improved software.
 
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Ok, this might not work for you but it cleared up a nearly identical problem for me back when I ran a Chrony (use MagnetoSpeed for most things now, but still use my Chrony for handguns).
Being careful to not get fingerprints on the tape, place a small piece of clear packing tape over each sensor window. Leave the pieces in place and see if that calms your readings down. I had the same problem and was given the reason to be sun reflections from differing angles causing errant readings. The tape seems to soften the intensity. Be sure to thoroughly clean the sensors first (alcohol on a q-tip works great). And yes...this was even with using sun screens.
I would also pull the battery overnight and then replace it with a fresh one...just in case!
Ok will do , thanks for your help.... In the middle of packing so I have plenty of tape around....
 
I have 4 35’s, need to send one of the printers in for repair but I guess I been setting them up so long it just take a couple minutes and it’s ready to go. My magnetospeed I tossed in the corner somewhere I’ll never use it again along with several pacts, rcbs, and chronys. I may buy a lab someday but I trust the 35’s
Wayne
 
I went Labradar a few years ago. It’s pretty awesome. I do have some placement issues with it using a braked .300 win mag. Blast is sideways so I followed the instructions and placed the Labradar about mid barrel behind and out of the way of the blast. It doesn’t always trigger though so I bought the JKL ent trigger to test. It‘s likely just finding the right spot for it with that brake/rifle combo.

I have used a Lab Radar since eight after they first came out. It replaced an Oehler 35p.

I solved the issue you are having with braked rifles by placing the Lab Radar on a tripod, and putting it 6-12" in front of and 6-12" to the side of the muzzle. This is the most foolproof location I have found. I use it for all rifles, brakes or not.
 
The first thing I would suspect is heat in the barrel. Each round experienced a hotter barrel temp. The other variable would be your response to recoil. A target for point of aim might have shown you bullet climb. Just my thoughts.
 
The first thing I would suspect is heat in the barrel. Each round experienced a hotter barrel temp. The other variable would be your response to recoil. A target for point of aim might have shown you bullet climb. Just my thoughts.
I assure you it was hot outside.... It's central Texas in summer.... I thought about this also but only five shots... But you are correct in your thinking....I am going to try again today.... I will clean the lenses of the crono , replace the battery etc and test with a rim fire before I start with the 10mm.... If I remember correctly last time I did this it showed a stable speed with the rim fire and it's a Glock 44 and it definitely gets hot fast... It's my only complaint with the pistol.... I certainly would like a new crono but don't want to spend $1000 if I don't need to....
 
started at 1201fps and ended at 1155 fps , seems strange.
FWIW, really doubt this is an issue with your chrono.

What crono are you using...???
I currently have 2. I do have a Labradar and use it most of the time. Probably got it just to see if it was everything that folks raved about. It is Ok, but you aren't going to be hearing me go on and on about it. It is just Ok.

My second chrono is a Competition Electronics Prochrono DLX. I'm more likely to rave about it. It will pickup bullets beyond the ability of the Labradar to pickup (picks up .172 and .204 just fine and over 4,000 no problem). But I'm also the guy that used a Shooting Chrony for 15 years and never shot it. Just got tired of stringing the cable to the unit. But any optical unit has the potential for lighting to be an issue. I was able to deal with challenges and solve them.

And how I use a chrono in my load development, you will never find me strapping a weight to the end of my barrel. But I realize the range conditions I shoot at (private range no heavily used) are probably different than some have to deal with.

Here is when I was comparing the accuracy of the two chrono's.

Chrony Test.JPG
 
1689698618664.png

School me on chronographs:​

Here is what I do know.

The above image is a normal wave form from the 1st transitions detected from 2 pairs of Oehler 57 Light Screens.

W- Start Screen A
G - Stop Screen A
R- Start Screen B
B- Stop Screen B

Vl: A 259/ms B 259/ms

Paper Blast Shield

Cardboard Stripper plate

Rounds were loaded subsonic to purposely induce muzzle blast for the purpose of this testing to see if muzzle blast could be detected.

Its repeatable so I wont clutter the thread with redundant pictures.

All shots recorded and illustrated are loaded to the same nominal velocity (subsonic) pay attention to the materials used for the stripper plates and blast shields, or no stripper plate and no blast shield.

1689699584771.png
Test 4


Vl: A 349/ms B 348/ms

No Blast Shield

No Stripper Plate


1689699712976.png
Test 5

Vl: A 349/ms B 348/ms

No Blast Shield

No Stripper Plate

Notice how the muzzle blast is detected by the multiple wave forms, what do you notice about the velocity? Remember this is the same subsonic rounds being fired.


1689700017231.png
Test 8

Vl: A 255/ms B 149/ms

Poly-carbonate Blast Shield

Steel Stripper Plate

1689700149754.png
Test 9

Vl: A 148/ms B 251/ms

Poly-carbonate Blast Shield

Steel Stripper Plate

Muzzle blast can be detected and trigger velocities on a light screen detector chronograph. If you use stripper plates and blast shields use wood and cardboard. Polymers and metals cause problems.
 
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/chronograph.4097324/
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/chronograph.4097324/#post-38696769

And just to add to the agony of chrono choices....
Around the corner comes a new radar chrony.
The FX True Ballistic is showing some promise but it is early in the game. Not to mention the price tag.
Uuuugggghhh......I thought this would happen after i dropped coin on a Labradar. But I am sticking with the level of technoligy that I have. This will more than suite my needs.
 
LabRadar. Used a Magneto prior but I like the LB, so easy, no cords, stores the data. I haven’t had any issues at all. I still keep the magneto around too, doesn't hurt to have a back up.
 
Thanks for the replies , I did most of what people asked me to do and it helped but happened again today... I changed the battery , cleaned the eyes etc etc even moved it further back and installed the sky screens and it helped... I went ahead and ordered the lab radar , I hope it was a wise decision... I am going to keep tinkering with the old one till I figure it out... I guess I will call it an upgrade since I have been using the old one for 12 years....
 
Thanks for the replies , I did most of what people asked me to do and it helped but happened again today... I changed the battery , cleaned the eyes etc etc even moved it further back and installed the sky screens and it helped... I went ahead and ordered the lab radar , I hope it was a wise decision... I am going to keep tinkering with the old one till I figure it out... I guess I will call it an upgrade since I have been using the old one for 12 years....
I forgot to add, when you get your LR, consider ordering an external trigger for long gun instances where triggering is difficult, and also remember when running your pistols to change the settings to those values. Also, you will want to run an external battery pack instead of using the internal ones. Those AA batteries don't last long so most of us use a cell phone charging battery. You will also want a fast SD card to be able to pull the data files more easily.

I use LR for handgun load development both at the clubs outdoors, but I have also run it indoors at the local public ranges. It will do the job with handguns.

I have also run it for airgun, and archery, where that external trigger comes in handy again.

The only fly in the ointment of the LR, is their app connects via a very unreliable BlueTooth connection, so you will inevitably learn how to re-establish communication between the unit and your device.

Most of the latest competitors for the LR are not cheap alternatives, so I expect the LR will still be around for some time to come because it is easy to use, and it works.
 

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