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Got brass troubles. Cause ? Video posted

why bump the shoulder back each time you resize ? Just touch it, as it is forming to fit your chamber and really does not need set back unless it starts getting very hard to chamber.
Try that with about three of your cases and see if your issued stops and you get a few more reloads out of those cases until they do close with more effort.
I thought .002 - .003 bump was what the gold standard was.
 
YES! He said that he’s bumping 0.002-0.003 from a free bolt fall. If the bolt closes cleanly, there’s no reason to push back any farther.
Wrong. I don’t go 2-3 further from a free falling bolt. I sized until it free fell 1 thou at a time
 
Ok, the way your previous post reads. It appears that you’re bumping past a free bolt fall.
Ok I’ll go back and find it. I didn’t mean that I was because I’m not. Once it fell I stopped. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
Where is line is occurring it’s .920 up from the bottom of case head. The area measures .365 diameter. A new unsized unfired piece I got .361 I don’t think chamber is too fat with those numbers ?
 
Again only if you need to do it. And that is when the bolt does close with effort. If it is closing smoothly, then no need to bump shoulder each time you resize.
 
Did you start with a fresh batch of brass after your barrel swap or FLS brass you'd been using in the previous barrel?
I've a batch of Starline .223 brass I haven't been into yet that I ordered some time ago so I'm curious where this leads myself.
 
Looking at the outside surface of the separated case there is a difference above and below the split.
Looking at the last pic of the case with the line there seems to be lot going on.
With 96 out of 100 showing the line, at the same place, I would try a box of factory ammo and shoot them without annealing, absolutely minimum sizing, slightly lower load, and see if the line comes back.
After I typed this, probably won't show anything :(
 
Did you start with a fresh batch of brass after your barrel swap or FLS brass you'd been using in the previous barrel?
I've a batch of Starline .223 brass I haven't been into yet that I ordered some time ago so I'm curious where this leads myself.
New brass for the new barrel. I was expecting a high round count with it before the pockets got loose
Funny thing is that some will show the flaw and some do not, this was bulk
brass so it is very possible that lots were mixed.

View attachment 1423271
yep looks a lil to similar
 
Where did you get the brass from?
These came in ziploc bags just big enough to hold 100 pieces from a gun store near Asheville nc. And he had several thousand rounds packaged just like it. I have 100 I bought from midway that’s in starline packaging. Makes me think now why was they in ziploc bags
 
Would definitely contact starline.... The few times I have they were extremely helpful... Maybe some china knockoff brass.... I put nothing past anybody these days.... If these weren't bulk buy and repacked then hmmm.... I just ordered 500 10mm directly from starline and they just came in a large clear bag with a note card talking about liability in reloading.... Instead of 5 bags of 100... Most shops I have seen order brass from starline in 100 pack bags with the starline logo etc...
 
Another vote for created headspace, whether from a too short for your chamber factory dimension on initial firing, or induced by sizing. It happens. I returned a box of 35 Whelen brass to the maker last year because on initial firing there was the telltale ring. They replaced them with a note about my firearm's excessive headspace (which it isn't according to no go gauge & never having the problem before in the 30+ years I've owned the rifle). I got some Alpha 7-08 brass recently & had to bump the shoulder on new brass. Good for them. All new empty reloading brass should be on the long side in my opinion. The first firing sets everything in motion & the stretch will only become more noticeable on subsequent firings.

Just spitballing here, but if you look closely at the case wall thickness, it appears that the separation is where the taper stops. In all of the partial or incipient separations I've experienced the taper stopped much closer to the base of the case. Where the taper stops seems to be the stretch/failure point... always... which makes sense. At least to me. Discuss among yourselves.

It looks like you were scraping a bent paper clip on the innards of some of the brass. I ground a point on mine before bending the tip. I can feel irregularities much easier. Been using the same paper clip for a long time & it still works.

From your 2nd picture:
1679335321339.png
 
Would definitely contact starline.... The few times I have they were extremely helpful... Maybe some china knockoff brass.... I put nothing past anybody these days.... If these weren't bulk buy and repacked then hmmm.... I just ordered 500 10mm directly from starline and they just came in a large clear bag with a note card talking about liability in reloading.... Instead of 5 bags of 100... Most shops I have seen order brass from starline in 100 pack bags with the starline logo etc...
I did reach out to them. Waiting to hear back. I checked the brass out best I could by head stamp markings and weight. I wonder if the shop could have ordered in big quantities and bagged up 100 at a time to sell.
 

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