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Milling windows in slide

I've got a Glock 34 slide that I want to experiment with reducing its weight. Cutting windows is a piece of cake. The question is a what point, if any, that structural strength is compromised.
I've looked at lots of pictures for examples. It looks like multiple short windows are more common than single long ones.
Any insight from the crew here is appreciated.
 
I would think the smaller openings would help keep more of the rigidity.
Remember to smooth out the edges!
Sharp corners set up potential stress points that could lead to cracking.
 
How much strength does a slide really need in front of the breech face? What does that part of the slide even really do except guide the barrel and hold the guide rod
Depends a lot on the loads and how well set up the spring is in relation to the loads. The slide can take a pretty good beating up front, where it hits the buffer. Which is another factor.
 
If you plan on doing this one thing I would say is buy many different main springs. Swap out springs to make the slide run without bottoming out.
Be aware that “short” cycling the slide can lead to ejection/feeding problems…
 
How much strength does a slide really need in front of the breech face? What does that part of the slide even really do except guide the barrel and hold the guide rod
Quite a bit actually.

While sitting, spring pressure is constantly acting upon it.
When fired it has to overcome spring pressure, and does so quite rapidly.
At the end of the stroke, it's going to have a sudden stop. The spring doesn't actually stop the slide.
Then spring pressure forces the slide forward to it's mechanical stop.

So, yeah. Quite a lot of beating around.

I've actually had a 1911 slide crack up both sides about an inch back from the muzzle end.
 
You can remove quite a bit of material. When I worked for a gunsmith/ custom gun builder. We focused on pistols. Glock but primarily 1911/2011.

I machine a lot of slides. Never had one come back from cracking. Multiple slide port designs at that. Also many guns we built were for competition in USPSA.

Key is to spring the gun to your slide weight with your load. Don't want the recoil spring too light or too stiff. Keep in mind if you shoot different ammo (hot to mild) the spring rate will need changed.

Important areas are the breach face and locking lugs (glock doesn't have a so called locking lugs like a 1911. But it's where the barrel sits in the ejection port when its in battery. Just forward of the breech face. ) You want to leave enough material there.


Long vs short ports... look at a sight tracker 1911 or a 1911 with a hybrid barrel (see photo). The port runs the lenght of the slide. From the muzzle end to roughly .800" to the ejection port. I've owned 3 of these that I built. 20k+ rounds on a slide. And thats with 9mm major. 115gr @ 1525 fps. Never had a problem with the slide failing due to cracking from ports. Only need to fit new slide due to the lugs loosening and slide to frame fit wears out after 20k+ rounds.
 

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