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Floating Reamer holder verse rigid.

I understand that which is why I replied that using a 60°center or a ball would result in the same thing. A plate with a through hole holding a reamer would just pivot on a 60° center or a ball.
 
I use the Bryant/Tooley style pusher. I like simple and I’ve never oversized a chamber at the back end using it. The other holder which I’ve only used a handful of times was designed and made by gunsmith Bill Myers. Pretty cool but I still prefer the simplicity of the pusher.
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Nobody has (yet) mentioned the PTG floating reamer holder (unless I missed it). Floats in multi axes and has a tension nut to control how much it floats. Best of both worlds.

That’s the one I use. Seeing the design it made me think it was the one. The end of the reamer will droop a tiny bit; I just support it with finger when going back in.
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It claims it corrects radial misalignment. How does it do that?

(I misspoke in my earlier example about the tailstock sagging... that would be axial sag..) Either way I don't see how having an adjustment point at the base of the reamer can create anything straighter than you started with.
From the GTR website:
"Radial alignment is corrected with this reamer holder. Axial alignment is not. The axial displacement in the ram of the tailstock will provide what is needed. That is if the correct alignment procedure has been preformed to the lathe and tailstock for reaming operations, i.e. chambering for rifles! Tailstock alignment procedure for turning a true shaft IS NOT the same thing and will never give you true center lathe axis thrust for chamber reaming!"
 
What is considered "acceptable" for tailstock missalignment (X & Y axis)?

Does the hand (finger) pressure required to resist rotation with the Bald Eagle type holder put side force on the back of the reamer?
 
Bought this one a few years back...interesting design.
Invented by Fred Burg back in the 40's- the Tool Flex floating holder. Simple as it gets from what I can tell, hard rubber "packing", with a spanner disc that threads in from the front that can be used to compress the rubber (theoretically increasing the float resistance, I suppose). This one has a one-inch bore, I machined a 7/16" adapter for reamers but haven't tried it as yet. The rubber surrounding the reamer should allow "float" in every direction, front and back of the reamer.

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Even thought about dropping $800 on a "real" floating holder that'll take ER collets...
 
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Does the hand (finger) pressure required to resist rotation with the Bald Eagle type holder put side force on the back of the reamer?
No. Look at Dave Tooley’s pusher. He extends the handle on one side 6” or so and he’s stated forever that he’s never had an issue. Way back people argued that he just couldn’t possibly get away with it. He did and still does. He posted his again (picture) here on AS very recently.
 
No. Look at Dave Tooley’s pusher. He extends the handle on one side 6” or so and he’s stated forever that he’s never had an issue. Way back people argued that he just couldn’t possibly get away with it. He did and still does. He posted his again (picture) here on AS very recently.
Well being an engineer and thinking about the free body diagram of Dave Tooley's pusher the vertical force on the extended handle has to transfer to the reamer holder. I suspect his pusher resists the force somewhat.
 
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I just reamed holes with .500" chucking reamers using both reamer holders and too me, they are perfect "suction fit", tested with 0.500" gauge pin. One method just as good as the other, main difference, I didn't have to hold the "dong" with the Gre-Tan holder. The pusher has a 5/16" precision ball bearing and the holder side has a .525" hardened O1 drill rod pressed into it. Body has .025" of clearance for float.

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I just reamed holes with .500" chucking reamers using both reamer holders and too me, they are perfect "suction fit", tested with 0.500" gauge pin. One method just as good as the other, main difference, I didn't have to hold the "dong" with the Gre-Tan holder. The pusher has a 5/16" precision ball bearing and the holder side has a .525" hardened O1 drill rod pressed into it. Body has .025" of clearance for float.

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I actually like holding the handle so i can feel rotational forces, let it slip if i need to plus let it spin as i stop the lathe and not withdraw it under power. Youd be surprised at how you get to know a reamer and how it cuts and when it needs sharpened
 
I suspect his pusher resists the force somewhat.
That’s been discussed and I can see it happening. With that style pusher if the back end tries to push off in any direction it would start to contact in one smaller area instead of all around and that would seem to force it back to center and full contact.
 
I got my JGS holder. I like the self centering that is caused by the flexible seal around the floating nose piece. Its not like it will fight to make the reamer go off coarse but it just keeps in a little closer to being on center than my Manson holder. You can easily move it radially .025" off center and the seal with return it to .005" TIR. I put an indicator on the face and sliding it around radially it will stay a Zero. Pulling it in and out axially it stays Zero with no end play. If you try to lean it or tip it axially the needle will move .001" or so so it does have some sort of Axial float to it. Wish they had a diagram like the PTG. The PTG uses the wave washers to hold the two sliding faces together so it floats radially but can tip axially with some force I would think.
 

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I've been wondering if it had axial movement. Never worried about it because the chambers always come out how I want them.
 
I just reamed holes with .500" chucking reamers using both reamer holders and too me, they are perfect "suction fit", tested with 0.500" gauge pin. One method just as good as the other, main difference, I didn't have to hold the "dong" with the Gre-Tan holder. The pusher has a 5/16" precision ball bearing and the holder side has a .525" hardened O1 drill rod pressed into it. Body has .025" of clearance for float.

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Assuming the ball bearing is meant to provide axial float, isn't the holder itself then influenced axially because you're then pushing off-center of the ball bearing? I know we're really getting into the weeds here, but that's the point, right? :)
 
Assuming the ball bearing is meant to provide axial float, isn't the holder itself then influenced axially because you're then pushing off-center of the ball bearing? I know we're really getting into the weeds here, but that's the point, right? :)

Axial would be in Z direction, not sure how bearing would effect that. Radial, yes if it needed to move for some reason, it would have .0125" of possible shift. Since my tailstock is virtually perfect alignment, no real reason for it to need to float at all. If the front of the reamer drifted one way or the other following the helix of the barrel, then the rear of the reamer could follow. Since the chamber is pre-bored, then reamer is really just expanding/forming the chamber.

I used my ultra precision drill chuck after the reamer holders and using same chucking reamer, I can't tell any difference in the fit. They all seem exactly on size when measured with a gauge pin that is .0002" undersized of the chucking reamer.
 

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