MDT Oryx chassis

[Mike Lum]

I like the Oryx because the riser comes off and leaves clean lines. My face kicks the reticle around something terrible. Not everyone can shoot with cheek weld. Test before you assume.

"Weld" is a VERY deceptive term in this reguard. Its more about consistent placement than actually pushing or forcing down on the riser with your cheek, If you push or lean down on it, it will move the rifle exactly as you say.

 

[Darwin]

"Weld" is a VERY deceptive term in this reguard. It’s more about consistent placement than actually pushing or forcing down on the riser with your cheek, If you push or lean down on it, it will move the rifle exactly as you say.

Perfect. Newer members might think weld involves force.

 

[qldreloader]

I'm tempted to get a Howa 1500 in 6.5CM with an Oryx chassis as a spare rifle to cart to the range on match days in case something goes wrong with my competition rifle. They are really cheap here in Australia at the moment and I have a Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 FFP that needs a home. My only concern is that it looks like a cleaning rod won't clear the top of the buttstock which would make cleaning very awkward. Anyone run into that problem?

 

[deadidarren]

I'm tempted to get a Howa 1500 in 6.5CM with an Oryx chassis as a spare rifle to cart to the range on match days in case something goes wrong with my competition rifle. They are really cheap here in Australia at the moment and I have a Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 FFP that needs a home. My only concern is that it looks like a cleaning rod won't clear the top of the buttstock which would make cleaning very awkward. Anyone run into that problem?

Certainly have and I'm pretty sure I have a threat of or a reply in a thread on this site somewhere anyway here's a couple of pics even with a bore guide does not fix your problem because it puts a lot of force on the bore at the 6 position because the butt is forcing the end of the rod and brush down needs to be milled to allow room for the rod to drop or as another member suggested out with the Dremel and a hacksaw blade

 

[qldreloader]

Certainly have and I'm pretty sure I have a threat of or a reply in a thread on this site somewhere anyway here's a couple of pics even with a bore guide does not fix your problem because it puts a lot of force on the bore at the 6 position because the butt is forcing the end of the rod and brush down needs to be milled to allow room for the rod to drop or as another member suggested out with the Dremel and a hacksaw blade
View attachment 1402422
View attachment 1402423

Thank you for that. I might look for a different chassis in that case.

 

[Darwin]

I'm tempted to get a Howa 1500 in 6.5CM with an Oryx chassis as a spare rifle to cart to the range on match days in case something goes wrong with my competition rifle. They are really cheap here in Australia at the moment and I have a Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50 FFP that needs a home. My only concern is that it looks like a cleaning rod won't clear the top of the buttstock which would make cleaning very awkward. Anyone run into that problem?

They really messed up with the cleaning rod rubbing the butt, a pricey paperweight.
It would be fun to ask them for an excuse.

 

[deadidarren]

They really messed up with the cleaning rod rubbing the butt, a pricey paperweight.
It would be fun to ask them for an excuse.

Proper way to do it would have been a folding stock but the cheapest way out would have been to leave the design the same and just mill a slot for the cleaning Rod to fit in then it wouldn't have been a problem

 

[Dgd6mm]

I own 2 and like them. Yes, a little thought and design change for a cleaning rod would have definitely gone a long way.

 

[JSH]

^^^^
Thus my complete thoughts when I got mine from day one.
I had to go to high rings to get the glass up high enough to get a good proper cheek weld. Low or medium, I would need a full length divot in my head. The action just sets to low in the chassis, at least for the Howa mini.
Some say these are an entry level chassis/stock. Thank goodness I had a KRG Bravo. If my Oryx had been first I would have shied away from others.

Are all of these Oryx chassis the same, as far as the cleaning rod issue? I take mine out to clean, which is totally ridiculous. Kinda like pulling your motor every time you change oil, the. Have to retune and check zero to boot.

 

[JSH]

I have been doing “cheek weld” “wood on wood” since about 1971-72. It is your position and place of contact, much like drawing a bow and where your contact point is.

I have seen and watched guys almost snuggle with the stock like they have their blankey there.
When stock is against my shoulder I want to be able to drop my head and be perfect on the sight or the optic, provided the stock chassis is adjustable for such, you paid for it but can’t use it I am not pleased with that.

I don’t want to have to twist and wiggle like I was in the back seat at the drive in with a cheap date.

 

[O G]

@JSH what's the application for the bipod? Is it PRS, F-class? For PRS I run a Fortmeier bipod and it works nicely. As for the bag rider I recommend Paul (44echoproducts@gmail.com) who did this beautiful bag rider for my oryx. It's a solid stainless steel, beautifully machined bag rider. It ads approx. 0.8lbs and serves as a great counter balance for my HV profile barrel. Fits nicely into my SEB rear bag. I chose stainless steel but it can be manufactured in Alu as well.

Awesome