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MDT Oryx chassis

JSH

Gold $$ Contributor
Have an Oryx chassis. I want to try one of the over bore bipods. Anyone set one up this way.
I will admit to not getting a warm and fuzzy feeling from this chassis from the get go. Selection is thin for the Howa mini.
Have several KRG Bravo and IMHO that is a heck of a good piece of equipment for the money.
 
Of all the chassis I've owned or tried, this is one that just doesn't get it for me. The fit is off when compared to the several others I own and use.

Good Luck with your search!


1673548249821.png
 
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Have an Oryx chassis. I want to try one of the over bore bipods. Anyone set one up this way.
I will admit to not getting a warm and fuzzy feeling from this chassis from the get go. Selection is thin for the Howa mini.
Have several KRG Bravo and IMHO that is a heck of a good piece of equipment for the money.
It's a great chassis. rock solid. I run FTR bipod on it and works fine.
 
I confess to being disappointed with the Oryx. While it was solid etc. I hated the fit, the plastic bits, the lack of bag rider ( I did make one that worked) etc etc, Sold it on.

I think that "Mark and Sam after work" on You Tube made an over barrel bipod fitting, as he does for all his rifles and maybe worth a look for inspiration.
 
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I confess to being disappointed with the Oryx. While it was solid etc. I hated the fit, the plastic bits, the lack of bag rider ( I did make one that worked) etc etc, Sold it on.

I think that "Mark and Sam after work" on You Tube made an over barrel bipod fitting, as he does for all his rifles and maybe worth a look for inspiration.
I got the bag rider fixed finally, forget who, but think here 3D printed. Cheaper than me carving one on the mill. Have had it out and it fixed that issue very well.
Another issue, it is light behind the action. Barrel is 28”, but just a varmint taper.

Mark and Sam bipod set up mounted on the side of the chassis I believe. I will look again.
I want a true over bore, so it is basically hanging from the bipod and should self level to a point.
 
Another issue, it is light behind the action.
Teaser pic before full assembly. Wide and long stock rider. Lower
secton is hollow and what the plug and lead shot is for. I machined
this so that the original cheek pad and butt pad is incorporated.
 

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@JSH what's the application for the bipod? Is it PRS, F-class? For PRS I run a Fortmeier bipod and it works nicely. As for the bag rider I recommend Paul (44echoproducts@gmail.com) who did this beautiful bag rider for my oryx. It's a solid stainless steel, beautifully machined bag rider. It ads approx. 0.8lbs and serves as a great counter balance for my HV profile barrel. Fits nicely into my SEB rear bag. I chose stainless steel but it can be manufactured in Alu as well.
 

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@JSH what's the application for the bipod? Is it PRS, F-class? For PRS I run a Fortmeier bipod and it works nicely. As for the bag rider I recommend Paul (44echoproducts@gmail.com) who did this beautiful bag rider for my oryx. It's a solid stainless steel, beautifully machined bag rider. It ads approx. 0.8lbs and serves as a great counter balance for my HV profile barrel. Fits nicely into my SEB rear bag. I chose stainless steel but it can be manufactured in Alu as well.
That is nice I need 2.
 
Stock is done. Not really set up for Varmint unless some dumb
chuck happens to waddle out onto the range, and I have several
that way. Either way....The 3 inch wide front rider simply unbolts,
then a pic rail mounts up so I can use my bipod.....This particular
stock is getting A 3 screw Savage PTA. I bolted inplace a block
of aluminum in the mag well and transferred the center bolt to
that.....Complete rifle will probably be done middle of next month.
 

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@Fuj, will it slide in the rear bag? Please kindly report back to us. Looks cool.
It's a 1.125" flat bottom and Protektor made a flat top DR bag for me with
short ears in Cordura. With a heavy sand fill, It seems to slide pretty good.
I'll know better once it's complete and out to the range. Rifle weight will be
around 20 lbs as a guestimation.
 
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Teaser pic before full assembly. Wide and long stock rider. Lower
secton is hollow and what the plug and lead shot is for. I machined
this so that the original cheek pad and butt pad is incorporated.
I had thoughts of similar only modular bolt together.
Need to get off my azz and get my new to me mill set up and start making chips, ain’t gonna learn any younger that’s for sure.
Like to see more of your project when time allows ;-).
@JSH what's the application for the bipod? Is it PRS, F-class? For PRS I run a Fortmeier bipod and it works nicely. As for the bag rider I recommend Paul (44echoproducts@gmail.com) who did this beautiful bag rider for my oryx. It's a solid stainless steel, beautifully machined bag rider. It ads approx. 0.8lbs and serves as a great counter balance for my HV profile barrel. Fits nicely into my SEB rear bag. I chose stainless steel but it can be manufactured in Alu as well.
Just a varmint rig in the unpopular 22 Nosler. The way this rig is unbalanced, my thoughts of an over the bore (basically hanging) bipod I though may help with the vertical stringing I see from time to time. I would like to keep the weight down on this, but it isn’t a major issue if I can’t. My light varmint rigs at the moment weigh 18-20 pounds.
 
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I got the bag rider fixed finally, forget who, but think here 3D printed. Cheaper than me carving one on the mill. Have had it out and it fixed that issue very well.
Another issue, it is light behind the action. Barrel is 28”, but just a varmint taper.

Mark and Sam bipod set up mounted on the side of the chassis I believe. I will look again.
I want a true over bore, so it is basically hanging from the bipod and should self level to a point.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fuj
I have an Oryx on my mini. I love everything but the cheek riser. I have my scope as high as I can get it within reason but the cheek piece won't go any lower and it makes the cheek weld difficult. Doable but difficult at times. Without butchering the cheek piece I'm not sure what to do.
 
I have an Oryx on my mini. I love everything but the cheek riser. I have my scope as high as I can get it within reason but the cheek piece won't go any lower and it makes the cheek weld difficult. Doable but difficult at times. Without butchering the cheek piece I'm not sure what to do.
Check to see if the two studs screwed down are not bottomed out.
On my custom butt stock, i cut about 5/16th" off each to drop it lower.
 
Check to see if the two studs screwed down are not bottomed out.
On my custom butt stock, i cut about 5/16th" off each to drop it lower.


Mines down as far as it can go. There is webbing on the underneath of the cheek piece that I could remove to make it lower but kinda hate to do that. I thought about buying some kydex and fabricating something.
 
Must have big cheek muscles I'm a bit of a fat bugger and my scope is mounted in low rings and have no trouble with cheek weld or ocular alignment .
 
I have an Oryx on my mini. I love everything but the cheek riser. I have my scope as high as I can get it within reason but the cheek piece won't go any lower and it makes the cheek weld difficult. Doable but difficult at times. Without butchering the cheek piece I'm not sure what to do.
I can see this happening, I have high cheek bones and struggle to get a good sight picture on some stocks with comb risers (Boyd AT-one, even Bergara's HMR ) both needed extensions tapped into the bottom of the comb rails to extend them to get them high enough.
That said the Oryx barely has to be lifted for a perfect fit, with lots of extra extension to spare. I can see this chassis not fitting a lot of people with bigger heads just because that comb sits high. Chin welders will hate this stock, but I love it!
Fyi their XPS stock will fit you a lot better from the sounds of it (much lower cheek riser) and its in the same ballpark price range.
 
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I like the Oryx because the riser comes off and leaves clean lines. My face kicks the reticle around something terrible. Not everyone can shoot with cheek weld. Test before you assume.
 

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