Floating Reamer holder verse rigid.

[TylerFromMS]

Does it take any wiggling by hand to find the chamber and center up? Do you stop the spindle each peck and insert reamer close to depth like I did when I was using my floating reamer with out a flush system? I used to help the reamer in so it did not drag on the side wall of the chamber. That was always my concern. Starting the spindle up with the reamer not up to the cut but hanging low and rubbing.

Nah, just run that sucker in there like you’re trying to make it come out the other end.

 

[DShortt]

Nah, just run that sucker in there like you’re trying to make it come out the other end.

View attachment 1398860

You forgot to add 'and blame it on the reamer.'

 

[DaveTooley]

Does it take any wiggling by hand to find the chamber and center up? Do you stop the spindle each peck and insert reamer close to depth like I did when I was using my floating reamer with out a flush system? I used to help the reamer in so it did not drag on the side wall of the chamber. That was always my concern. Starting the spindle up with the reamer not up to the cut but hanging low and rubbing.

So it's rubbing on a surface you're about to remove? With the bushing in the barrel there's only so much room for droop.
I push the reamer holder against the pusher which squares it up then roll the carriage forward with the spindle running. After withdrawing the reamer slightly I sometimes stop the spindle after the last pass. It's caliber specific. Straighter cases have a tighter fit. CM's come to mind.
We develop techniques that work for each scenario. I know I make changes depending on the barrel and chamber without even thinking about it.

 

[ridgeway]

Does it take any wiggling by hand to find the chamber and center up? Do you stop the spindle each peck and insert reamer close to depth like I did when I was using my floating reamer with out a flush system? I used to help the reamer in so it did not drag on the side wall of the chamber. That was always my concern. Starting the spindle up with the reamer not up to the cut but hanging low and rubbing.

It floats so it can move. The initial insertion might need some care...you don't want the bushing to gouge going in. It's hard to feel, but you kinda figure it out pretty fast. No problems going in, peck, pull out or whatever. I usually keep feeding as long as I see chips flowing out. I run high psi and oil. I will usually feed a bit and back off on handwheel to alow chips to evacuate. The reamer will stay put in reamer holder if I need to completely remove to check HS. I'll then run reamer in totally till it touches where I left off and start back up. I trust the DRO on tailstock to hit my number spot on. JGS makes nice stuff...

 

[ridgeway]

We develop techniques that work for each scenario. I know I make changes depending on the barrel and chamber without even thinking about it.

Exactly. I do the same! You have to...gotta understand the why and when, lol

 

[DSMWerks]

Oh yeah the care a finesse is a given and that's what I have always done but maybe to much so. I would do a .030" peck, back up .005-.010", stop the spindle, put my fingers on the floating holder to hold the the two sections concentric while I did a full retract, blow wipe clean, slather in oil and then hold the two sections concentric again to get in the chamber .050" short from the last peck then turn on the spindle and peck another .030". Repeat about 60 times. My floating holder has about .025" in all directions, well on its axis center line obviously. So if I don't help find center nearly all the way in the corner of the shoulder and the body drags then the pilot makes contact finishes finding the lands. I'm sorry I should have been more clear about my concerns

 

[X Count]

I'm still thinking I can get it better. Whipped this up. An MT4 Boring head holder, Made a face plate with large enough bolt holes to float the ER32 chuck, Loctite together, put in my MT4 spindle adapter and turn and face it so its true to the taper. I'll use a tailstock stop on the bed and indicate the ER32 holder in and tighten it up. I'm sorry to attempt such a work around to avoid a floating holder but I hate fiddling with a floating holder getting it in position without dragging it on the chamber walls.
EDIT. Forgot to mention the only ER32 collets anyone should use are Rego-Fix or Haimer

I like the concept but you're made the MT4 taper is true to the collect but is your tailstock true to the spindle axis?

 

[VA_XTC_Shooter]

I've used a pusher for decades and sometimes the reamer will spin in the holder but I never come close to getting hurt. Here's how I do it

View attachment 1398285

So is that a mini tail stock you have in a tool holder? That's a great idea, allows you to remove any misalignment the regular tail stock would have. So each time you chamber you have to get you X and Y aligned and you are good to go?

 

[rickhirsch]

this is a great discussion i float my reamers in but I'm always looking for a mouse trap
I think if i had a cnc i would definitely would use a block that I would set-up to ream chambers
but I just have a couple manuals lathes so its easy to use the tail stock . but the tail stock
on the tool post is cool. 45 years in 20 different machine shops i never have seen this . that was ready
great! old man rich

 

[DaveTooley]

So is that a mini tail stock you have in a tool holder? That's a great idea, allows you to remove any misalignment the regular tail stock would have. So each time you chamber you have to get you X and Y aligned and you are good to go?

Yes it is. It's off a 6" Emco lathe. Alignment isn't critical although I do sweep it in. I use a pusher with about .015" clearance on a side. It is handy that after roughing the chamber in I have it programed to go +5" and align the X axis. I change tools and free up the Z axis. Start the coolant and go to work.

 

[DaveTooley]

this is a great discussion i float my reamers in but I'm always looking for a mouse trap
I think if i had a cnc i would definitely would use a block that I would set-up to ream chambers
but I just have a couple manuals lathes so its easy to use the tail stock . but the tail stock
on the tool post is cool. 45 years in 20 different machine shops i never have seen this . that was ready
great! old man rich

Before I bought my Haas I visited Surgeon rifles in Prague OK. They were running a TL-1. They used a floating reamer holder for both roughing (peck drill) and finishing. Again in a floating reamer holder. Those aren't the floating reamer holders that are used in this trade. I bought one, which I would be happy to sell someone, but could not get away from having my hand on; 1. the handwheel 2. the reamer holder. You get so much feed back from that setup. Both good and probably more important the bad feedback. I can see me pushing the green button, checking my phone and wrecking a chamber for some reason. Sometimes it's a blend or the new with the old.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Nah, just run that sucker in there like you’re trying to make it come out the other end.

View attachment 1398860

Wtf

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Ill just keep going with the old bald eagle pusher. If it grabs or doesnt feel right i just let it slip from my hand. Once i advance enough i let it spin, turn the lathe off, clean the reamer, put it back in the chamber oiled, slide the tailstock forward, grab the handle and start again. I never withdraw or insert under power. No issues whatsoever. Whatever reamer holder you go with all i challenge you to do is check it with a good chucking reamer and a set of gage pins. Ive gotten rid of a bunch of premium reamer driving tools over the years. Its like anything else if you dont test you dont know, youre only going off of speculation, rumors, heresay or ease of use

 

[Terry]

question why does it seem everyone likes to use some sort of floating holder instead of holding the reamer by hand and using a pusher? l like to feel what the reamer is doing myself.

I got oversized chambers with the pusher. When I went to the Manson floating reamer holder that stopped.

 

[Walt Krafft]

I got one of the popular floating holders and it was totally out of square. 0.015 if I recall correctly. I use a ball bearing floating holder originally made for screw machines.

 

[DSMWerks]

but is your tailstock true to the spindle axis?

Yes it is. As described if you lock down the tailstock in the position with the quill retracted you can sweep an indicator inside the Morse taper from an indicator in the headstock. Then extend the quill the length of travel of your longest cartridge and sweep it again. Should still be zero. I've seriously tuned my lathe. Some of the optics work I do just requires that level of eliminating error.

"So is that a mini tail stock you have in a tool holder?"

Yes it is. It's off a 6" Emco lathe.

Dave, I had to look back at that picture. I missed that you had a tailstock mounted in a tool holder. I like it.
I have a Manson floating holder that I'm not that big a fan of, just seemed tiny and another like Surgeon uses but I think I will pick up the JGS as well to try and see if it improves my opinion of floating holders.

 

[DShortt]

I made my own floating reamer holder that is capable of correcting misalignment in 3 axis as well. I still dial the bore in as closely as possible and have my tailstock aligned as closely as possible as well, but nothing and no one is perfect. I like the added insurance. Makes me sleep better.

 

[boltfluter]

I made my own floating reamer holder that is capable of correcting misalignment in 3 axis as well. I still dial the bore in as closely as possible and have my tailstock aligned as closely as possible as well, but nothing and no one is perfect. I like the added insurance. Makes me sleep better.

Care to share a few pics of your home made floating reamer holder? Just curious is all. What a great thread! Let's keep it going to have something to stimulate the brain cells. What few are left! Lol!
Paul

 

[boltfluter]

I got oversized chambers with the pusher. When I went to the Manson floating reamer holder that stopped.

Terry,
Any idea why the fat chambers? I have personally used a pusher with great luck and cut my best chambers ever. Just curious is all. These days I trade work for my chambering needs with the smiths that I do work for. A win win for both.
Paul

 

[Carl S]

I use a JGS floating holder.i keep the quill extended to minimum.i have the barrel in the spider chuck extended to minimum.the less over hang the better.when everything is dialed in and pre bored I start to ream.thumb and finger just resting on reamer so I can feel how it's cutting.constant flow of oil keeps the chips rolling back.no problems keeping the reamer inline when retracting and reinserting.i keep the lathe running and oil flowing.tailstock is true.chambers come out consistently concentric and true when checked with the interapid.this way works the best for me...it may not for others..good luck.