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Tru bore alignment system

I have a TBAS also. It's a challenge to hold tapered muzzles and short shank barrels in it. And dialing in takes some practice. It's not as intuitive as other methods. Despite that, I feel it's the best option for me.
 
Yes, I have a TBAS and the mentioned reamer holder, they both work. I could take or leave the tru bore, it has its merits, but I dont use it every time.
 
Yes, I have a TBAS and the mentioned reamer holder, they both work. I could take or leave the tru bore, it has its merits, but I dont use it every time.
Same feelings I have. If a guy was just getting started, I'd spend my resources on other tooling.
Care to share solutions you've come up with to overcome this? Are you using a 6 jaw chuck with it?
I'm using a 3 jaw. I don't know of a solution for short shank barrels.


For tapered muzzles, I threaded the nose of each Jaw for a 1/4-28 set screw. I place soft brass shims the length of the jaw and gently close the chuck until the jaw heels make contact. Then I run the set screws in until they make light contact and adjust them to remove runout on the OD. Then I finish tightening the chuck and dial in with the TBAS as normal.
 
I think you'd need a lot of soft jaws to do that. I like the swivel design. You could whip up something on your own pretty easily.
 
I just dont have the time to rig up a solution and machine parts for every single barrel i do. With the tbas anything short of about a 36” barrel wont hit the back spider so chatter is my main issue. You can dial em in like a champ tho.
 
I just dont have the time to rig up a solution and machine parts for every single barrel i do. With the tbas anything short of about a 36” barrel wont hit the back spider so chatter is my main issue. You can dial em in like a champ tho.
Same. Boring soft jaws and then swapping them out for every single barrel taper is rock bottom on my list of things to do. I thought about tapered split sleeves. But decided to try the Allen screws. They aren't fancy but they're quick and universal.

I don't have a rear spider on my lathe because of the length, but the only "chatter" issues I've had was parting off. The working end doesn't chatter, but the overhang inside the spindle starts to sing if I'm not aggressive with the feed.
 
I have one of the JGS holders, just because that is what I was taught to use. My runout has been really good so far. What I didn't know is that is it just a slip taper fit. It had come loose somehow and my reamer caught and was just spinning in the barrel.
 
I have been tossing around the idea of getting one too. Would be nice for short barrels.

I designed my own variation of an alignment chuck, but I haven't fine tuned it yet. Very easy to take back to zero though.
 
I have been tossing around the idea of getting one too. Would be nice for short barrels.

I designed my own variation of an alignment chuck, but I haven't fine tuned it yet. Very easy to take back to zero though.

Just make sure you have a lathe with sufficient mass and weight. More than one person has had chatter issues with the overhang of the TBAS unit itself. Good luck!
Paul
 
I have a sliding track and hoist in place for the my 12" 3jaw Buck and 16" 4jaw chucks, but I can lift the TBAS/6" Gator/ D1-6 adapter assembly in place by hand.

It's pretty easy to build a plywood sled to set them on while you get them started if you're dealing with a threaded spindle.
 
I have a sliding track and hoist in place for the my 12" 3jaw Buck and 16" 4jaw chucks, but I can lift the TBAS/6" Gator/ D1-6 adapter assembly in place by hand.

It's pretty easy to build a plywood sled to set them on while you get them started if you're dealing with a threaded spindle.
That plywood trick is the one i pull
 
I have been tossing around the idea of getting one too. Would be nice for short barrels.

I designed my own variation of an alignment chuck, but I haven't fine tuned it yet. Very easy to take back to zero though.
Any pictures of your chuck?

Hal
 

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