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acceptable neck turners

how many neck turners did you go through to find the one you use and trust?
how many do you have?
do you use more than one when turning?
ray
2….I bought a cheap Hornady one and used it for 20 pieces and literally gave it away at my range. Then I bought the complete K&M setup and I really like it. I wish the brass would chuck up a bit more consistent as it took me three different Chucks to get one that seemed to rotate the brass true without runout.
Dave
 
I have a K&M and it works fine for me and I can't speak to anything else. Don't force anything and as stated above, sneak up on it. That said, you will also need, if you don't already have one, a mic to measure thickness. Don't skimp on it. Get a good one. If you're turning 17 cal (or smaller) whatever necks, most anvils won't fit, so you'll have to modify or purchase a different one. Also, use good lube. For me, Hobo Oil works slicker than Imperial, but that's just my opinion.
Hobo oil as a mandrel lube? Or on the neck as a cutting lube? Just curious as I may try it. I use LPS Creme (cutting tool lubricant) and it works well but is a bit of a mess.
 
I have an old Sinclair NT3000, a newer Sinclair NT4000 and a PMA model A and B. The PMA set is for my tight neck 6br. The other 2 are for my .223 and 6.5x47L. I only turn those when I get + .002 variance in neck thickness. All 3 work well. The PMA set makes the best cuts. Very smooth and straight.

PopCharlie
 
2….I bought a cheap Hornady one and used it for 20 pieces and literally gave it away at my range. Then I bought the complete K&M setup and I really like it. I wish the brass would chuck up a bit more consistent as it took me three different Chucks to get one that seemed to rotate the brass true without runout.
Dave
I tried the Hornady turners as well. It was really a POS. I turned 3 or 4 pieces. That was enough to turn me off. I took the cutter part off and chucked the brass and tried again, but still crap. Easy to adjust, but horrible cut. I tossed that thing.

PopCharlie
 
^^ Mandrel lube

ETA: Actually, it's for both. Enough migrates from the mandrel to the cutter, works very slick...
Thanks. I’m going to try that tomorrow. Do you clean the inside of the necks somehow after turning? Also, do you use a q-tip to lube the inside of the neck before turning, or just lube the mandrel only?
Thanks
Dave
 

A stand to hold it is necessary. I have a swivel vice that i mount in my bench peg holes
 
Thanks. I’m going to try that tomorrow. Do you clean the inside of the necks somehow after turning? Also, do you use a q-tip to lube the inside of the neck before turning, or just lube the mandrel only?
Thanks
Dave
Dave,

I only lube the mandrel and clean them after with 91% iso and a stripped q-tip, then blow them out with canned air. Keep in mind that these are 17s and don't need as much lube as say, a 308. 22's and up get an extra dollop of lube. I was very surprised at the lessened resistance. To be honest, I've also used 5w-20 with equal results.
 
I have a 21st century lathe. It works very well for my needs but I'm not a competitive target shooter. I get very consistent neck thikness in the.0005 range using their expander mandrel. I do get more consistent neck tension when seating bullets. I only have 2 tight neck chambers. Both in 22 Brx and skim turn the rest of my no turn Chambers . All Lapua brass. Is it worth the effort I think so.
 
I tried a couple of good one's, by choice of many posters, hand style, but ended up buying and now only use the Hornady neck trimming tool, with a power attachment for my hand drill. Works so nice and easy and comes with several pilots for various caliber necks.
Can't find anything wrong with the Hornady. I needed to turn for my new 308 barrel, so bought the only one easily available. Results so far have been super -.0005 accuracy and a good finish when you get technique correct. My Bosch drill, with a slow start on the trigger works best. - Who knew that there was good trigger skills needed with a drill?

One trap I fell into was turning some fired Lapua brass ( from my previous barrel), but soon realised that it is better to size before turning to get good concentricity on the mandrel.
 
I used a Hornady and it tore up my nice Lapua brass. Went to a 21st Century lathe and it is great.
 
Sinclair NT-1000 (for .223 only) and NT-1500 (for .284 and .338) with carbide cutters, turning mandrels, and expander mandrels. I neck turn in large lots, so I can take the time (and spoil the brass) to set them up when I change calibers; I might choose a different solution if I was turning small lots of many calibers. I use Sinclair case drivers with my drill/driver as the power source. I turn after sizing, so the case necks are still lubed inside and out with Imperial, which I also use to lube the turning mandrel.
 
2….I bought a cheap Hornady one and used it for 20 pieces and literally gave it away at my range. Then I bought the complete K&M setup and I really like it. I wish the brass would chuck up a bit more consistent as it took me three different Chucks to get one that seemed to rotate the brass true without runout.
Dave
Are you doing this on a lathe?
 
52BD74D6-96C0-483E-9482-AD8971DFB4F9.jpeg Old School........Jaco and Pumpkin....:cool:
th

Regards
Rick
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've got 5 of them(Pumpkins). On of the few times in my life I got things right the 1st time!!
 
Yeah, I use both the Pumpkin & the Jaco. But I am not 100% old school ( about 95%....LOL), I run the brass on one of these...... Benchrite Case Lathe for Neck Turning
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I've got 5 of them(Pumpkins). On of the few times in my life I got things right the 1st time!!
 
I have only one now. I tried a Forester. Then I bought a K&M. I use their Power Adapter with their Power Grip and power it with my lathe. I hold the turner with their Ergoholder. I made a fixture to set the depth of cut. The K&M does a noce job and is easy to use.

The big trick to turning necks is case prep.
 

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