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Threading barrels

The issue with watching to tool for me is sometimes swarf builds up and blocks the view of the tool point when it's close to the shoulder.
I have often thought of a small air jet directed at the tool would clear the swarf. My problem with that idea is my shop time is spent on work and I can't, or more correctly, don't want to take the time to make tools :)
 
I've used one. Noga mini mist with no mist does a fine job of moving chips but not blowing all the oil off.
 
Soooo... you have one of these dial indicators set up to hit zero on the cross slide. But you are threading with the compound. So, your zero changes every pass.
You’ve lost me on that one. Who’s talking about an indicator on the cross slide? With an indicator setup to touch the carriage to tell you then to disengage and pull the tool out it doesn’t matter if you use the cross slide or compound to feed. You stop when the indicator tells you to stop and that’s it. No difference in the end result with a thread relief or not either. It’s not complicated.

I can use the tool or the indicator to tell me when to stop. Doesn’t matter much and I flip flop between the two often depending on what I’m doing but when threading at higher speeds I find watching the indicator is easier for me.
 
Jerry Sharrett told me he would position his tool at the shoulder where he wanted to pull out, and simply put a mark on the ways with a sharpie against the carriage. I always use a dial indicator and watch the dial run to zero, but I tried the sharpie mark once and damned if don't work just fine. Very easy to see and pull the nuts at the same time.
 
Soooo... you have one of these dial indicators set up to hit zero on the cross slide. But you are threading with the compound. So, your zero changes every pass.
But not by much. Set your stop point ~.022 (depending on thread pitch) to the right of where you want the finished thread to end. If you’re using a relief cut, set your stop point at the right hand side of the cut.
 
When I shoot a rifle I look at the sights. When I thread I watch the tool. I can't imagine NOT watching the tool.
Why do you watch the tool?

The tool is like the bullet going down the barrel, it's in a captured state and guided by the carriage, you want to know when to stop the carriage so set up an analog dial guage and watch the needle.
The needle is easier to watch than flickering digital numbers and once set it is easy to repeat withdrawing the tool at the same time every time.
 
Jerry Sharrett told me he would position his tool at the shoulder where he wanted to pull out, and simply put a mark on the ways with a sharpie against the carriage. I always use a dial indicator and watch the dial run to zero, but I tried the sharpie mark once and damned if don't work just fine. Very easy to see and pull the nuts at the same time.
You send him some commissary money?
 
A machinist friend taught me how to feather the tool out
when watching a travel indicator. I understand the method
but might have too large a variation in my feather-out move.
Maybe poor hand-eye coordination ?

What I don't understand is why we should try to cut close to the
tenon shoulder.

IIRC the Rem recoil lug is about 3/16" and some custom actions
have a counterbore of .100" back from the action face. Why not
feather it out at a more comfortable place inside these ranges
instead of risking a train wreck by crowding the shoulder ?

I've tried something that might not be a good idea----when using
a rectangular relief groove. The tool bit "sings" as it cuts and quits
singing when it cuts into the groove.

Just listen to the music----and watch it also if you want to---and flip the
half-nut when it looks or sounds right. Might not need to set up an
indicator to do this.

Thanks for any replies.

A. Weldy
 
I am jot so sure "chicken groove" is the right description for a relief groove. Here is a pic of a muzzle, ready to thread, of a customer who has very specific specs. The relief groove is needed to make sure what ever muzzle device is used will thread to the shoulder. Many muzzle devices don't have much internal thread relief.

Notice how close the tool is to the shoulder. I had to use that angle to be able to see any space at all. Straight overhead there is less clearance.

Not sure why the part looks so scratched up in the pic. To the naked eye it was smooth and shiny.

1C441B24-5FE0-4028-989E-BC716F1CD302.jpeg

Here is it after threading to Class 3A specs.

8CB70961-6E57-432A-A5B8-AF10DF4B895A.jpeg
 
I am jot so sure "chicken groove" is the right description for a relief groove. Here is a pic of a muzzle, ready to thread, of a customer who has very specific specs. The relief groove is needed to make sure what ever muzzle device is used will thread to the shoulder. Many muzzle devices don't have much internal thread relief.

Notice how close the tool is to the shoulder. I had to use that angle to be able to see any space at all. Straight overhead there is less clearance.

Not sure why the part looks so scratched up in the pic. To the naked eye it was smooth and shiny.

View attachment 1395789

Here is it after threading to Class 3A specs.

View attachment 1395787
Greetings INTJ. Is it possible to show us your chuck/steadyrest setup in this operation?
 
Greetings INTJ. Is it possible to show us your chuck/steadyrest setup in this operation?

This was a short 16.5" barrel, so I used a Viper fixture in a 4 Jaw.

 

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