Rear Entry Action Wrench Use

[Richard Jones]

I have one of these on the way, as I am tired of having to remove the scope base in order to swap barrels on my Savage/Remage/Origin actions.

This will not be used for removal of stubborn barrels.

Removal:
1. Barrel goes into barrel vise
2. Action wrench goes into action
3. Whack it or steady pressure?

Install:
1. Barrel into barrel vise
2. Bolt in with go gauge
3. Hand tighten barrel nut
4. Remove bolt, install wrench
5. Whack it or steady pressure with torque wrench?
6. Recheck with go and no-go gauge.

The above outline is strictly for me to outline my thoughts and is merely a WAG about most of it. I follow directions well, if the directions are clear.

Please, any tips, tricks, suggestions, etc. will be most helpful. Plenty of youtube vids on removal, can't find any on the install.

Thanks

Rich

 

[Carl S]

Make sure all threads are clean of crud and foreign material.a little moly grease on threads and your good to go.

 

[Richard Jones]

^^ Understood, but is my sequence correct?

 

[LVLAaron]

The only thing you whack is rusty wheel bolts. Apply steady pressure.

 

[DaveTooley]

I have a T-handle I use on mine. Maybe 16" per side. I just lean into it with modest pressure. A minimal grunt as I like to say. That puts you around 75-85 ft/lbs of torque

 

[JFrank]

I use a torque wrench set at 60 pounds

 

[Richard Jones]

OK, no whacking.... altho' whacking is SOP for most Savage stuff....moving on...

Is the sequence correct for tightening with the barrel nut? This is not shouldered. Trial and error I assume.

Thanks for all the help so far, keep it coming, please. And when the wrench hits the shop, I will post any update, good or bad.

 

[jepp2]

1. Barrel into barrel vise
2. Bolt in with go gauge
3. Hand tighten barrel nut
4. Remove bolt, install wrench
5. Whack it or steady pressure with torque wrench?
6. Recheck with go and no-go gauge.

2. Bolt with the FP assembly removed goes in on Go gauge with the rim under the extractor
3. Have your barrel nut wrench on the nut to allow you to tighten it more by hand
5. Torque wrench until it clicks

Here is Greg at SPR doing it


And here is my setup. I use a fired case with the case head to datum I want, before anyone flames me for the bolt being in the action. Works for me. I have never had to use any force on barrel nuts, just steady pressure.

 

[jelenko]

It will work.
FWIW. I've installed remage barrels with basically the same sequence but without an action wrench.
1. Barrel into barrel vise
2. Screw on action to about where is should go
3. Bolt in with go gauge.
4. Hand tighten barrel nut
5. Holding the action with one hand, tighten the nut with a BIG crescent wrench - in stages to keep action from moving. I aim for 60lbs.
6. Recheck with go gauge and with two thicknesses of transparent scotch tape on bottom of go gauge [I want the HS to me no more than +2 thou over SAAMI min]

About 1/3 of the time the action moves while tightening the nut.

 

[Richard Jones]

@jepp2 SPR=almost what I envisioned.

@jelenko That's pretty much what I do now, but I loathe having to remove the scope base/rail every time I want to swap barrels. All the nuts that I have fit my SSS wrench.

So the action wrench is mostly for holding the action in place, more or less, so the nut can be tightened?

R

 

[jepp2]

So the action wrench is mostly for holding the action in place, more or less, so the nut can be tightened?

For a nutted barrel, yes. When I tighten a shouldered prefit barrel, it is doing the tightening.

 

[wkdickinson]

I personally have found 35 to 40 ft lbs of torque to be adequate for my Savage "Target" action with a Criterion barrel and NSS nut/recoil lug. I also always use a small amount of anti-seize on all the threads (receiver, nut and barrel) as well as the face of the action receiver ring.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Cant you just put the action in a barrel vise when working with savages?

 

[jelenko]

@jepp2 SPR=almost what I envisioned.

@jelenko That's pretty much what I do now, but I loathe having to remove the scope base/rail every time I want to swap barrels. All the nuts that I have fit my SSS wrench.

So the action wrench is mostly for holding the action in place, more or less, so the nut can be tightened?

R

Right, you did mention wanting to leave the scope on. That would be difficult to tighten.
FWIW, I use a Bobro quick detach mount that returns to zero well enough for 'cross the course'.

 

[Richard Jones]

^^^ I use QD mounts as well, just trying to get away from removing the bases/rail.

 

[Richard Jones]

Cant you just put the action in a barrel vise when working with savages?

Dusty,

Trying to do this without taking off the scope base/rail. I guess I could cobble together something notched to fit over the rail, but thought this was the proper way, if there is such a thing. Right now I am using an action wrench clamped to the front of the action, which I put in a vise. Then the barrel nut wrench comes into play. To get that action wrench attached, rail gotta come off...

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Dusty,

Trying to do this without taking off the scope base/rail. I guess I could cobble together something notched to fit over the rail, but thought this was the proper way, if there is such a thing. Right now I am using an action wrench clamped to the front of the action, which I put in a vise. Then the barrel nut wrench comes into play. To get that action wrench attached, rail gotta come off...

Maybe you can get somebody like 21st century to make you a top plate for their barrel vise with a slot cutout to fit over the rail

 

[Carl S]

I torque barrels 70 pounds feet or some say feet pounds.no need to go nuts with a 6ft bar-pipe.all your doing is stretching and inducing unnecessary stress into everything.

 

[Richard Jones]

So here's some dogwood barrel blocks on a Savage single shot action. This might work, but I'm just not sure of the stress so I will hold out on the rear entry wrench. Maybe use both, can't hurt.

Thanks for the idea, Dusty. I seem to always overthink things.

 

[jelenko]

^^^ I use QD mounts as well, just trying to get away from removing the bases/rail.

What problems do you run into when the base rail is left on?