• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Action Truing Jig Help

So long as your jaws are ground dead nuts straight to the spindle bore. I would definitely throw an indicator along the mandrel again after you dial in the collar to be sure.

No machine I ever ran was. Some were close.

I cut soft jaws for everything, and even then your typically .0002-.0005 out of conc.

I prefer the truing fixture, and to do all the work at once with the bearings warm.
 
When I first started truing actions, almost 45 years ago, I would make a temporary sleeve for the receiver ring which I would glue on. The receiver would be mounted on a mandrel and the sleeve trued. Then the mandrel would be pushed back to allow access to the threads and locking lug seats. The mandrel would be dialed in and held in the 4 jaw chuck. A piece of 1/8 brass wire would allow the mandrel to pivot a bit for alignment. The mandrel aligned the rear while the front, in the sleeve, ran in the steady. This worked OK but when I had to true receivers which weren't round, I had to make a spider for the front and true that. I decided that was a pain in the butt so I built a jig which was big enough on the ID to hold a Model 70. It is easy to deflect an action so set-up is the most difficult part of it. I generally set the action and jig up between centers, on the mandrel, then dial in the jig. When the jig is running true to the mandrel, I set it up in the 4 jaw with the front supported in the steady rest, indicate the mandrel for confirmation, then pull the mandrel and do the job.
In a 700 Remington which is very crooked, the mandrel has to have a very narrow contact at the rear so it can align itself. If not, either the mandrel, the receiver, or both with deflect to certain extent and, while everything might measure true, with the mandrel in place, it won't be when the mandrel is removed. WH
 
Where would one get those rods? I know manson sells the bushing type... would a rod that's a thou loose be better than bushings?
Group buy from Warner Tool. They did one awhile ago, mby you could start another. A search would find the thread.

I might be in for another set.
 
Last edited:
I know they are short and it might be fine but centerless grinding isn’t always best for straightness. I can’t remember how Warner said he said he would do and did the last ones. I believe he stated it in the thread.

Here you go:

 
Last edited:
Where would one get those rods? I know manson sells the bushing type... would a rod that's a thou loose be better than bushings?
I had jgs make a bunch sets so I could get the price down. Very few Smith's seemed interested in paying what it takes to produce a set to the tolerance I specd or could not understand why a full diameter rod is so superior to the other types so I sat on those for years. Obviously I'm not ordering more sets to sell.
 
If the customer supplies a chromoly action and wants it truing and wants a chromoly barrel fitting I've cylindricaly ground the action exterior just to true it up.then into the lathe,recut threads,lug abundments,action face.blue or cerakote.just another way to skin the cat.
 
I had jgs make a bunch sets so I could get the price down. Very few Smith's seemed interested in paying what it takes to produce a set to the tolerance I specd or could not understand why a full diameter rod is so superior to the other types so I sat on those for years. Obviously I'm not ordering more sets to sell.

Understood. If a set of these surface... someone let me know. I'll give them a good home.
 
Lets say you had a perfect rod and an off the shelf remy 700.

If the race in the front and rear of the action are not aligned (meaning, you'd have to flex the bar to get it through) and you wanted to make the action perfect, you'd need to ream the whole race out oversize and get a bolt to fit, yes?

What if you just wanted to true up face of the action?
 
Lets say you had a perfect rod and an off the shelf remy 700.

If the race in the front and rear of the action are not aligned (meaning, you'd have to flex the bar to get it through) and you wanted to make the action perfect, you'd need to ream the whole race out oversize and get a bolt to fit, yes?

What if you just wanted to true up face of the action?
If youre not building a short range br gun with it then youll probably be ok. Otherwise you gotta ream it, and fit bumps to an oversize bolt
 
If youre not building a short range br gun with it then youll probably be ok. Otherwise you gotta ream it, and fit bumps to an oversize bolt
With it like that, it’s bent probably 3-4 thou, is it worth truing the face of the action? Or would it just make things worse?

The face looks like it was cut with a bandsaw and really bothers me.
 
So it's good to put rods in the action and get everything dialed in right? But don't use them to dial in the barrel? Indicate off the lands?:D
 
What if you just wanted to true up face of the action?
I use Manson's rod with the tapered bushings and have no complaints with them.
Anecdotally, might be more precise to use fixed dia bushings ala PTG don't know- but the tapered bushings are very sensitive and will bind the ground rod if not precisely aligned.

I'm certainly not going to argue with guys like Wheeler that know much more than I, but I don't understand how a precision ground rod is any better in a factory receiver where the bolt raceway is NOT precise, and a precision fit isn't even possible. Select the size that'll fit the largest ID, maybe just at the back of the action- and the rest floats and wobbles. How's that better than bushings independently fit to center the rod at front and rear, and dialing from that??

Besides, with fewer and fewer M700's being worked these days (most smart shooters are buying the precision clones, as they should- esp with Remington's price increase) I can't justify the expense of ground rods.
 
I use Manson's rod with the tapered bushings and have no complaints with them.
Anecdotally, might be more precise to use fixed dia bushings ala PTG don't know- but the tapered bushings are very sensitive and will bind the ground rod if not precisely aligned.

I'm certainly not going to argue with guys like Wheeler that know much more than I, but I don't understand how a precision ground rod is any better in a factory receiver where the bolt raceway is NOT precise, and a precision fit isn't even possible. Select the size that'll fit the largest ID, maybe just at the back of the action- and the rest floats and wobbles. How's that better than bushings independently fit to center the rod at front and rear, and dialing from that??

Besides, with fewer and fewer M700's being worked these days (most smart shooters are buying the precision clones, as they should- esp with Remington's price increase) I can't justify the expense of ground rods.

I have the same questions. However, there are "custom" actions that aren't that great either. I just got the tapered bushing set from manson today... It's a much nicer/tighter fit than I imagined it would be.
 
I have the same questions. However, there are "custom" actions that aren't that great either. I just got the tapered bushing set from manson today... It's a much nicer/tighter fit than I imagined it would be.
Very nice set. Somebody with a machine shop capable of making us some rod sets should see if we can get a group buy
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,248
Messages
2,214,621
Members
79,487
Latest member
Aeronca
Back
Top