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What barrel lube after cleaning

By degreasing the bore as you say, what do you think happens when that first bullet goes down the bbl? Copper fouling starts and builds up fast.
We will have to agree to disagree. My method has worked for me
for many years. I don't have any copper problems in any of my
wild catted 7mm's pushing a minimum of 2800 and high's of
2930 fps. Barrels are Bartlein and Brux. Currently also playing
with a button barrel, Stan Taylor did for me for a bench rifle.
After 400 rounds, Sweet's says it's good to go.
 
What lube do you use after cleaning your barrel?

I have been putting a Kroil patch down after cleaning and then dry patching before shooting. I seem to be getting more copper fouling after shooting than I think I should on fairly new barrels in good condition. Thinking of switching to some other lube or some solid lubricant like lockeese. Your experience greatly appreciated.
i used to lube the bore after cleaning, now i believe, as much pressure and heat that is in the bore when a bullet is fired that whatever lubricant- ect thats in there is gone after the first shot. i think the only differance differant lubes make is in where the cold bore shot lands compared to the group. i usually just run a dry patch or two down the bore after the last solvent one and call it good. im not competing so a couple cold bore shots out of the group dont bother me. i lube the bore if the gun wont be shot for months to keep it from rusting. for this ive had great luck with birchwood casey sheath. ive had guns go for years in an unconditioned space with this in the bore and didnt rust.
 
We will have to agree to disagree. My method has worked for me
for many years. I don't have any copper problems in any of my
wild catted 7mm's pushing a minimum of 2800 and high's of
2930 fps. Barrels are Bartlein and Brux. Currently also playing
with a button barrel, Stan Taylor did for me for a bench rifle.
After 400 rounds, Sweet's says it's good to go.
i like your idea about degreasing the bore. Im gonna try that and see what happens thanks
 
Marvel mysery oil

When I was at Parris Island in 64 and "Final Inspection Day" was at hand we gathered behind the barracks next to the marsh...out of sight...and used MMO to clean our weapons....highly out of order and against regulation ?....oh yeah that's why we were out of sight. Anyway that is when I learned about Marvel Mystery Oil. Beat the heck out of "regulation" cleaning solvents.
 
I used to buy Kroil by the gallon. Now retired I buy aerosol and pints. I can't imagine any benefits from using Kroil in a clean barrel but I may be wrong.

For sure Kroil is a miserable lubricant and equally useless as a protective coating or for rust prevention. Kroil is not a good thing around machined ways, Jo blocks or other precision surfaces. This assumes we are talking about Kroil as a penetrating oil. Kroil is full line and there are other products.

I gather but have little experience that graphite based products in the bore or tumble moly coating bullets works very well for some people.

I'd use Dyna Tek aka Bore Tek ceramic conditioner to help with too quick copper fouling. I know that works applied according to the directions to a properly clean bore.
 
If I'm putting a gun away for the season, It's patched with MMO.
Other then that, I use no lube at all !!......I clean the rifle prior to a
match, then final patch out of bore and chamber is with a mix of
acetone and alcohol. I want absolutely no trace of lube in my bore
prior to firing my foulers.
I agree. After the first shot the lube out anyway...or covered up with fouling. However i just started using lockeez as I've heard it fills in the fire cracking and reduces cold bore fliers.
 
i used to lube the bore after cleaning, now i believe, as much pressure and heat that is in the bore when a bullet is fired that whatever lubricant- ect thats in there is gone after the first shot.
The point is- the lube is to prevent the copper fouling from the first shot. No one is arguing that it helps after the first fouling shot. Any smith will tell you that shooting a dry bore is NFG. Ask Jim Borden among other renowned smiths. Swabbing with alcohol and putting away is the worst thing you could do. You've stripped the bore of any protection against moisture and contaminants that may be outgassing from being in proximity to the stored gun. A good oil like Butches Gun Oil ( MMO) will not turn to scum like kroil and some others over a period of a few months.
 
Cem and lh, good point on Kroll being a poor lubricant. I was using it partially to wipe out the solvent.
I think that something is needed to help remove solvent, as many solvents including regular hoppes contain a small amount of ammonia which I want to get out of there and I think just a dry patch does not get it all. Second you need something that can sit in the surface lay to prevent corrosion and also provide a better sliding condition for the bullet than bare steel.
 
If you are asking what product to use to put your barrel away for the season, just use a common petroleum based oil. Your main concern will be rust. I use ATF because after tearing apart thousands of automatic transmissions with hundreds of thousands of miles on them, there is no rust. Kroil is a penitrating oil and does absolutely nothing to prevent rust.
 
When I was at Parris Island in 64 and "Final Inspection Day" was at hand we gathered behind the barracks next to the marsh...out of sight...and used MMO to clean our weapons....highly out of order and against regulation ?....oh yeah that's why we were out of sight. Anyway that is when I learned about Marvel Mystery Oil. Beat the heck out of "regulation" cleaning solvents.
when I was at PI in 75, before final inspection we use CTC or "dry cleaning fluid" our dak green marines were exempt from the dipping process as it would turn their hands and wrist's light green.
 
The point is- the lube is to prevent the copper fouling from the first shot. No one is arguing that it helps after the first fouling shot. Any smith will tell you that shooting a dry bore is NFG. Ask Jim Borden among other renowned smiths. Swabbing with alcohol and putting away is the worst thing you could do. You've stripped the bore of any protection against moisture and contaminants that may be outgassing from being in proximity to the stored gun. A good oil like Butches Gun Oil ( MMO) will not turn to scum like kroil and some others over a period of a few months.
i did say in that post that i lube bores when i wont be shooting a gun for awhile. i do do that. The reason I do it is to prevent rust. But if Im cleaning a gun today that i will be shooting in a day or two I cant see any advantage of lubing the bore. my rifles that i shoot for accuracy clean up quickly with no copper fouling left. i clean them every 20 or so shots and check with one of my bore scopes. If you prevent it from copper fouling the first shot, what keeps it from fouling the second shot? it would only take me a few seconds to run another patch down the bore with lube on it. i used to do it and will again if i think it helps anything
 
I just run a wet patch of Kroil and 2 dry patches ...so I basically leave no lube in the bore except maybe microscopic particles, or slight film. I don't go overboard on cleaning...never clean at the range no matter how many shots... ran a Colt AR 1000 rds... dry... no cleaning...it never missed a beat, and accuracy stayed about the same, just as a test. So I don't break in barrels anymore or clean near as often...it works for me.
 
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If you prevent it from copper fouling the first shot, what keeps it from fouling the second shot?
The layer of carbon laid down on the initial shot from powder fouling. Remember graphite, which has excellent lubricity, is another form of carbon. Powder fouling if not allowed to get hard (i.e.-carbon ring) also offers good lubricity. In my observation in SR BR most competitors have went to shooting the whole match ~ 60 -70 rounds without cleaning and netting better scores without the trouble of having to re-foul after each cleaning. I know of no one shooting competitively sends their initial shot down a dry bore.
 
The layer of carbon laid down on the initial shot from powder fouling. Remember graphite, which has excellent lubricity, is another form of carbon. Powder fouling if not allowed to get hard (i.e.-carbon ring) also offers good lubricity. In my observation in SR BR most competitors have went to shooting the whole match ~ 60 -70 rounds without cleaning and netting better scores without the trouble of having to re-foul after each cleaning. I know of no one shooting competitively sends their initial shot down a dry bore.
Ok thanks for this info. I will try it some more.
 

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