Rear entry action wrench material ?

[Hammer101st]

Im in the market for a rear entry action wrench for Remington and Savage and i see they are made from stainless and 4140. Is one prefered over the other? Im thinking stainless would be better because its softer and less chance to screw somthin up than 4140 would my assumption be correct?

 

[55fairlane]

You are incorrect....depending on the grade of stainless, it can heat treated . For the tool your after my OPINION 4140.....it is never gonna wear or break

Aaron

 

[Hammer101st]

You are incorrect....depending on the grade of stainless, it can heat treated . For the tool your after my OPINION 4140.....it is never gonna wear or break

Aaron

Well i would rather sacrifice the tool than the action how about it

 

[Hammer101st]

I found a davidson wrench are they better than the ones that just have the flat blade in the front

 

[LVLAaron]

I'd get whichever one looks nicer. Either material will be fine. You aren't going to damage anything unless you're using an impact on it for some reason.

 

[clowdis]

I found a davidson wrench are they better than the ones that just have the flat blade in the front

I have a friend that warped a customer's action using a rear entry wrench. If you're taking custom barrels on and off a rear entry wrench may not be too bad because they're usually not installed as tight as a factory barrel. I really prefer the Davidson wrench for this. If removing factory barrels get the Brownell's wrench that bolts around the outside of the front ring and a damn good vise.

 

[boltfluter]

I have a friend that warped a customer's action using a rear entry wrench. If you're taking custom barrels on and off a rear entry wrench may not be too bad because they're usually not installed as tight as a factory barrel. I really prefer the Davidson wrench for this. If removing factory barrels get the Brownell's wrench that bolts around the outside of the front ring and a damn good vise.

What Clowdis said. No way would I use a rear entry wrench to remove a factory installed barrel. Assuming this is for removing a barrel for the first time.

Paul

 

[butchlambert]

What Clowdis said. No way would I use a rear entry wrench to remove a factory installed barrel. Assuming this is for removing a barrel for the first time.

Paul

I make my rear entry wrench to bear on the raceways of the front ring and not further back.

 

[Will Henry]

I make my rear entry wrench to bear on the raceways of the front ring and not further back.

Likewise. The wrench looks like a bolt with slightly longer lugs (and a hexagonal drive on the tail end). I mostly make mine from C1045 shafting and have no complaints.

 

[Will Henry]

PS. Be careful if using a rear entry wrench for barrel installation on a post 67 Model 70 (with the guide rib). The guide rib in the receiver is relatively fragile. A wrench for a remington should be cleared at the bottom of the right lug for the same reason; although the Remington is a little more robust in this regard. WH

 

[jackieschmidt]

I make my rear entry wrenches out of large grade 8 bolts. Grade 8 bolts are a good source of high strength steel in the 130 to 150,000 tensil strength range.

Here are my wrenches for my Bat M, Bat Neuvo, and Farley actions. The handles are welded on with 7018 low hy stick rod.

 

[butchlambert]

Likewise. The wrench looks like a bolt with slightly longer lugs (and a hexagonal drive on the tail end). I mostly make mine from C1045 shafting and have no complaints.

Mine are made from 416R barrel drops

 

[Hammer101st]

I dont have factory barrels on anything and would never screw with taking a factory barrel off thats what my gunsmith is for and he dont even screw around they go strait to the lathe for a pressure release cut puts a big ass wrench on that he modified. He chambers, headspaces and torques to 35ftlbs. He torques ppc's to 45. So 35 lbft is all i will be torqueing to or breaking loose from