I have done, nothing there not already on the label. You're probably referring to Corbin Bore Lap which is described as containing 30-40 micron synthetic sapphire flat plates. The Benchrest Bore Cleaner blurb just says 15-20 micron "levers", which may well be finer synthetic sapphire as well, but the omission is curious.
And who was this? A tabbed or a scrolled ranger?
I agree , I also go by feel unless I am just trying to go down to bare metal.... If I shoot it I clean it before it goes back in the safe.... Sometimes you can still detect a slight dirty spot on patches but I normally stop and run an oily patch down the barrel 2-3 times and it removes even more crude after letting it sit awhile.... I run a dry patch to get that gunk out and to remove extra oil then store it back in the safe.... I know alot disagree with using brushes etc but I have rifles that are fifty years old that have been cleaned this way their whole life that still shoot better than I can shoot them.... I also understand why people say it rounds the edges of rifling but sorry , if pushing a brush a few strokes down the barrel at the speed of smell is destroying my barrels and cleaning them is hard on them I have some rifles that over 50 years old that disagree...
Thanks. I went straight to corbins.com, figured that was the first and last stop:
My question is which grade of bronze wool should I use? The coarse or the fine?
They are very thick. You will probably end up trimming them and/or using a smaller dia. jag to make them usable.
One of the Parker-Hale jags would work well, they're what I use to short stroke on a tight patch, or to swab on cleaner for soaking. Wrap the patch on it like a roll of paper towels, adjust patch size for perfect fit in the bore.
-Have you tried the bronze wool with just a good solvent? So far, that seems to work about the same as using Free All - but without letting it soak for hours/days. But, using bronze wool is getting significantly more of the stubborn and hard carbon out. [I am short stroking the brush/bronze wool ~ 20 times in the throat and another 20 through out the bore.]
Makes sense - I can see how that could be of value as long as it's linked to performance. My issue was just cleaning to obtain a "good" borescope image without regards to performance results.
I could not agree more! When wacking crows repeatedly at 400 yards in moderate wind conditions (without using a portable bench) is the desired accuracy you don't need a bore scope. The cleaning procedures I'm using have made that possible for 40 years.50 posts to date on this topic.
Many varied opinions. Check the net and your find an almost infinite number of approaches.
Most who post on here are experienced shooters. They are not the once-a-year sight the deer rifle guys. They spend a lot of time on the range and start to discover what works for them, their rifle, and their application. In other words, they begin to accumulate data and knowledge on their procedures and the performance results.
Aren't performance results the ultimate answer to which procedure is best for you?
Bottom line, I don't think there is an absolute answer to the "proper" way to clean a rifle except it has to be done so you don't harm the bore during the cleaning process or allow corrosion to take hold.
Sometimes we can get lost in the quagmire of theories and technology when all we are trying to do is hit the desired target area on a consistent basis which has many parameters for a successful shot, the most significant of which is the skill of the shooter.
My experiance is similar. I would add this, when using moly bullets and barrel coating for field rifles cleaning in my opinion is not only just as important but a process to insure moisture removal is a must.
I hunt eastern ground hogs that have a relatively small vital area. Add in wind, mirage, heat, insects buzzing around your head and the most significant variable is me and my ability to place a controlled shot precisely off a shooting cross stick in the field in a hunting environment.
