Been a machinist for 35 years, I chamber my own barrels from drilled and rifled blanks from reputable companies who order barrel blanks by the ton to a composition of tested alloy formula. Just as in the nuclear industry, the computer industry, or DOD... the alloy of the metal is critical, and engineering has perfected it for its intended purpose, and it sample inspected and scrutinized.
It's ordered with a purchase order and the alloy meets specs. I do not choose, as I lack the expertise in metallurgical science to do so and the equipment to test.
Iike most everyone I've shot both CM and SS barrels from cut, hammer forged, button rifled, factory, to custom rifled, even military machinegun steel, and crome lined. Only a few observations...if it shoots it's a good barrel regardlessof material or how it's made. The chrome lined and MG steel seem to hold up to abuse well, but their accuracy hasn't been there for me, and I don't shoot target rifle to the speed of an autoloader... usually.
I rebarrel all the old factory barrels on my actions, with SS barrels from dominant barrel makers. Cause SS works for me. I don't do any barrel break in proceedure any more, too old and waste of my time. I believe George of GA Precision said minimal or no break-in requirements on his barrels depending on the barrel...when asked.
I shot 308 a lot years ago and change barrels every 8000 rds, they were still fairly accurate, but firecracking was pretty heavy past the throat, and I kept shooting until the heat waves distorted the vision too much to see the target. Smell the steel when its hot, but your hitting the target i can't see making my own barrels, there would be a learning curve, lots of tool to grind. A gun drill for deep holes, would be nice. Burnishing buttons, rifling buttons for every caliber. Push or pull button rifling machine...Or build a single point rifling machine.
Then I could pick my own 416 SS or PH 17-4. No thanks, unless it's a survival gun, then by all means drill your barrel with aircraft drills, and make your rifling buttons .0015 oversize with the correct angle of 5' 30" for your home made 10 twist 308 win survival barrel...but don't expect it to complete with the best match barrels. JMO.
It's ordered with a purchase order and the alloy meets specs. I do not choose, as I lack the expertise in metallurgical science to do so and the equipment to test.
Iike most everyone I've shot both CM and SS barrels from cut, hammer forged, button rifled, factory, to custom rifled, even military machinegun steel, and crome lined. Only a few observations...if it shoots it's a good barrel regardlessof material or how it's made. The chrome lined and MG steel seem to hold up to abuse well, but their accuracy hasn't been there for me, and I don't shoot target rifle to the speed of an autoloader... usually.
I rebarrel all the old factory barrels on my actions, with SS barrels from dominant barrel makers. Cause SS works for me. I don't do any barrel break in proceedure any more, too old and waste of my time. I believe George of GA Precision said minimal or no break-in requirements on his barrels depending on the barrel...when asked.
I shot 308 a lot years ago and change barrels every 8000 rds, they were still fairly accurate, but firecracking was pretty heavy past the throat, and I kept shooting until the heat waves distorted the vision too much to see the target. Smell the steel when its hot, but your hitting the target i can't see making my own barrels, there would be a learning curve, lots of tool to grind. A gun drill for deep holes, would be nice. Burnishing buttons, rifling buttons for every caliber. Push or pull button rifling machine...Or build a single point rifling machine.
Then I could pick my own 416 SS or PH 17-4. No thanks, unless it's a survival gun, then by all means drill your barrel with aircraft drills, and make your rifling buttons .0015 oversize with the correct angle of 5' 30" for your home made 10 twist 308 win survival barrel...but don't expect it to complete with the best match barrels. JMO.
