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Inside neck chamfer tool for 6BR

I'm just getting started in the world of 6mmBR. I've got Lapua cases and some 105 Berger Hybrids to start with. When chamfering the new case mouths should I use my standard RCBS chamfer tool or would a Lyman "VLD" chamfer tool be a better choice. Does it matter?
 
Bugs above just beat me to it but for what its worth my favorite all around inside neck chamfer tool is the K&M. It is adjustable (very easy to adjust) controlls the depth and pilots off the flash hole. I believe it gives me the most consistent chamfer of any hand held chamfer tool.
As far as how important the inside neck chamfer is, what I have found is that a poor chamfer can cause poor bullet seating, will result in large variations in bullet seating force, and can even damage the bullet jacket as it is seated.
Thats not to say you cant get a decent chamfer with an RCBS tool but I have both and I think the K&M does a better job.
 
Bugs above just beat me to it but for what its worth my favorite all around inside neck chamfer tool is the K&M. It is adjustable (very easy to adjust) controlls the depth and pilots off the flash hole. I believe it gives me the most consistent chamfer of any hand held chamfer tool.
As far as how important the inside neck chamfer is, what I have found is that a poor chamfer can cause poor bullet seating, will result in large variations in bullet seating force, and can even damage the bullet jacket as it is seated.
Thats not to say you cant get a decent chamfer with an RCBS tool but I have both and I think the K&M does a better job.

I would like to upgrade to get consistent chamfer. Should I order the .17 to 6mm version or the 6mm to .338 one? The 6mm is on the cusp of both!
 
I use the Giaurd trimmer/chamfer set up..
Once set up, as fast as you can stick a case in, it’s chamfered & trimmed..
 
I would like to upgrade to get consistent chamfer. Should I order the .17 to 6mm version or the 6mm to .338 one? The 6mm is on the cusp of both!
I have two of the 6mm to .338 version. I shoot 6mm and 7mm in competition so I keep one set for each case neck size. The 6mm to .338 works just fine on 6mm case necks.
 
Have Both the Rcbs has a Longer Taper than the Lyman
I'm just getting started in the world of 6mmBR. I've got Lapua cases and some 105 Berger Hybrids to start with. When chamfering the new case mouths should I use my standard RCBS chamfer tool or would a Lyman "VLD" chamfer tool be a better choice. Does it matter?
 
I use the Giaurd trimmer/chamfer set up..
Once set up, as fast as you can stick a case in, it’s chamfered & trimmed..
If you take the time to get it set up correctly it's great! That said I've seen more cases wrecked from a machine that was set up poorly. By wrecked I mean a inside chamfer that is a 1/16" or more deep.

Paul
 
this. . .
It looks like opinions vary widely on this and everyone seems to be getting the results that they want using different tools and chamfer angles. I assume that it doesn't matter that much.

However, the KM tool does seem to make a lot of sense. I always wondered if my chamfers were at consistent angles (from case to case) when doing the task by hand. The KM should help keep the cases at a 90deg angle to the cut. I also never considered the depth of the chamfer; just tried to use consistent pressure and duration by hand when cutting. Looks like the KM tool address this too.

For those of you who use the KM tool; do you spin by hand or are you using the adaptor for a drill or similar tool?
 
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It just dawned on me I had one of those k&m tools about 5 yrs ago. I didnt like it for some reason or other. Have memory of taking too long to find the flash hole on smaller Lapua cases and biting into the brass cause it was too sharp, so I would back it out a hair and then not be indexed. Or something like that. Really all a chamfer does is take out any burrs on new brass by cutting a tiny bevel. So I went back to using my old Redding rocket with a couple of twists by feel. The bullet dosent touch the bevel of the chamfer so not critical. I planted 5x at .18 yesterday with new brass chamfered with the Redding Rocket. It works!
 
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It looks like opinions vary widely on this and everyone seems to be getting the results that they want using different tools and chamfer angles. I assume that it doesn't matter that much.

However, the KM tool does seem to make a lot of sense. I always wondered if my chamfers were at consistent angles (from case to case) when doing the task by hand. The KM should help keep the cases at a 90deg angle to the cut. I also never considered the depth of the chamfer; just tried to use consistent pressure and duration by hand when cutting. Looks like the KM tool address this too.

For those of you who use the KM tool; do you spin by hand or are you using the adaptor for a drill or similar tool?
I always use it by hand. It cuts real fast and clean.
Tesoro above does make a good point in that on small flash hole cases it can slow you down a bit, when inserting the guide rod through the flash hole. However, I have gotten used to using it and it isn't that much slower.
 
I have found using the K&M tool, the 6mm to .338 that at the end of the bevel there is a burr left on my case's. Doesn't do it with the smaller one from K&M. You can feel it when you set bullets by hand on a arbor press.
 

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