Any rimfire benchrest shooters /mechanics out there ?

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Anybody do their own gunsmithing ? I wanted to paint a stock but first I needed to make a stock But first needed to make a new action so I'd have something to put in the new stock . It's a vicious circle around here at times.

I was able to buy a barrel ,a green mountain (my favorite) from keystone accuracy. 1.250x27 inches for a good price so that part is in the bag. While cleaning out one my tool boxes I found a rifle basix trigger still in the package . So I started on a new receiver. While it's mostly done I'm about to the end of my shop time till fall or bad weather. Lots of outside work to be done cleaning up this old hog farm.

I've got a lot of options for this project and new ideas to try out. I was thinking about the way anschutz used to make their barrels with the larger diameter section on the muzzle.

So why not on a benchrest .22 leave the heavy front and thread the end for a tuner . Probably turn down to .920 then 1.125for the larger section. you could thread it 1.125 x36 and screw the tuner on. As long as your only threading the end I don't think there would be an issue with doing it this way . Anybody have any thoughts on this? Do long heavy barrels need more or less tuner weight compared to a long skinny barrel. What about barrel length? Would a 16 inch x.920 barrel need less than the full 8 oz weight of a basic tuner on a 24 inch barrel? Any comments other Ideas.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Just remember any time you change diameters on a barrel OD that changes the ID. This is why RFBR barrels are straight (dia sized to make weight) and tuners are clamped on not threaded. The smaller barrels respond to tuner inputs more than stiffer barrels. Im excited to see what you come up with. I know youll do a great job.

 

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Just remember any time you change diameters on a barrel OD that changes the ID. This is why RFBR barrels are straight (dia sized to make weight) and tuners are clamped on not threaded. The smaller barrels respond to tuner inputs more than stiffer barrels. Im excited to see what you come up with. I know youll do a great job.

So if I turn the barrel to .920 and leave say four inches at 1.125 on the muzzle end and just thread the bigger section at 1.125x 36. no more than I'm taking out for the threads do you think it will make a difference? I know that going from 1.250 to .1.125 then to .920 will but on the 1.125 section only going in .018 do you think it will make a difference?. I see a lot of new guns with threaded barrels 1/2x28 and that can't be good and I wonder why I mean I know why, silencers and brakes. You would think they would back bore on the threaded section and put the crown 3/4 inch back. That's the problem with having a lathe and mill. I think too much.
What about action screws 2-3 I was thinking 2 in front of the trigger and let the back end float

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Heres a video showing exactly why rimfires are not threaded. The crown has to be the tightest point in the barrel. This is double important for lead slugs not so much with copper since it will swage back out after a tight spot. Once a lead slug gets swaged down it doesnt grow back

 

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So what do you think about action screws 2 in the front none in the back?

 

[Intell]

So what do you think about action screws 2 in the front none in the back?

I had a stiller Lonestar once that I used the two front screws and let the rear tang float. Mcmillan Edge stock.
It shot very good and was easy to tune, I don’t know if using the front screws only, made any difference, but it did not hurt it.
This was the only one I tried that experiment on.
I forgot to mention it when I had my last gun bedded.
I also think you will be better off with a clamp on tuner like Dusty mentioned.
There are several different brands to choose from, I like Harrels and the J&Ls out of Texas, team Chancon.