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Cleaning barrel question

Lkwebb

Gold $$ Contributor
I've got a factory barrel that I'm using bore tech nylon brushes . The barrel is 6.5 creedmoor and using 6.5 mm brushes. I was wanting to scrub the barrel but reversing the brush in the barrel is a no go, its skin tight it will not reverse. I have used a smaller caliber brush but it seems to not make much contact through the barrel..
I'm ready for all hateful comments lol
 
After the nylon brush wears a little you’ll be able to reverse it. You could also wrap a patch around it and probably reverse it with cleaner on it. I have a savage 22-250 barrel that I couldn’t get clean. I tried everything and recently I bought a 2 part chemical cleaning product called thorroclean and used that with a nylon brush reversing in the first 1/3 of the barrel a few times then doing the whole barrel and repeating. Barrel is completely clean for the first time in I don’t know how many years. Thorroclean is good stuff! It is mildly abrasive so depending on your feelings towards using abrasives in your barrel may or may not be for you.
 
Follow my man Speedy’s directions to clean your barrel with patch out and accelerator will do the work. Only reverse an undersized brush or brush wrapped with a patch in the barrel. You can take an undersized brush and short stroke the first few inches of the throat area, but not with a new brush.
Dave
 
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No need to reverse them brushes within the bore. Full strokes at all times. Use a good copper solvent like Wipeout or the Accelerator, and let it rest for a while. Bore tech works really good also, follow instructions. I use Iosso nylon brushes, and they do go in tight. BTW I also use Speedies method.
 
Something doesn't some right to me. I never had a situation where a proper sized brush wouldn't reverse and I'm referring to bronze brushes let alone the much softer nylon brushes. Granted, Bore Tech brushes are heavier by design but still much softer than bronze brushes.

I'm wondering if the brush you're using is over sized or the wrong brush. Is the brush straightly aligned in the rod?

Regardless, never force anything in the cleaning process. Investigate first. Measure, try another brush, don't pull back through the bore if you encounter excessive resistance - remove the brush as others have advised.

Many top shooters and other respected shooters recommend not reversing the direction of the brush. If you have the patience for this, then this can be an extra measure of protection or at least make you think so. Peace of mind has value. ;) It won't hurt to remove it.

Others reverse the brush. I'm in the reverse group but very careful making sure the brush is straight in the rod and gently pulling it over the crown in the reverse direction. I also use Dewey "no harm" bronze core brushes. I've yet to damage the crown. Of course, I use a proper rod guide. I use nothing but bronze brushes for carbon removal. In my experience in does a much better job than nylon but that's just my experience. I'm not an expert.

However, you shouldn't use bronze brushes for copper removal if you think aggressive copper removal is necessary; the copper solvent will eat up the brush and give you false positives. I don't believe aggressive copper removal is necessary but that's an entirely different issue and beyond the scope of this thread. However, it's hard for me to understand and believe that "copper build up" could be causing this brush issue. The reason I say that is that in the old days, many guys I knew, including myself used nothing but Hoppe's No. 9 with bronze brushes and never had an issue of reversing the direction of the brush.
 
I think the OP means 'reverse within the barrel' - not pull back through the muzzle.
Good point - I just never imagine anyone trying to reverse a brush while in the bore because that's such a no-no, i.e., gun cleaning 101. However, that would certainly be one reason for his difficulty.
 
Same here. I couldn't imagine being able to reverse a new brush inside the bore.
I did on a fairly used brush that wasn't as used as I thought. I could see the 'divots' in the bore afterwards.
 
Cleaned a copper mine in my 80's vintage Savage 110 7RM yesterday. Boretech C4, ran 2 saturated patches through bore, let sit for an hour or so, followed by 15 strokes with a Sinclair premium bronze brush (pre-Brownells), 3 dry patches (1st patch was a deep Prussian blue), repeated 3 times, no copper whatsoever.

I got rid of my other bore cleaners after switching to Bore Tech.
 
Cleaned a copper mine in my 80's vintage Savage 110 7RM yesterday. Boretech C4, ran 2 saturated patches through bore, let sit for an hour or so, followed by 15 strokes with a Sinclair premium bronze brush (pre-Brownells), 3 dry patches (1st patch was a deep Prussian blue), repeated 3 times, no copper whatsoever.

I got rid of my other bore cleaners after switching to Bore Tech.
I too am a Bore Tech advocate. My reason initially was to switch to an odorless product because the odor of the product I used for years, Shooter's Choice, became offensive to a family member. Shooter's Choice seem to do an adequate job in the sense that my performance results remain consistent, and I saw no reason to change until the odor became an issue.

Alway believing in a bronze brush as the best method to produce the required mechanical action to remove carbon, I began with C4 and a bronze brush. After carbon removal and dry patching, I applied Cu+2 for copper removal with a nylon brush because of all the horror stories I've read and heard about regarding "copper fouling".

First let me say that C4 did any outstanding job of removing carbon, better than any product I ever used.

Also, Cu+2 did an equally superior job of removing "copper fouling". I was happy as a "pig in mud", until I went to the range and started developing first shot flyers and having to shoot several shots to "season" the bore before the rifle settled into to a consistent point of impact. I was totally baffled because I never had this problem before.

After exhaustive research online, a dubious source at best, discussing with other shooters I came upon the concept of "minimum disturbance cleaning and copper equilibrium". There were several sources discussing this and advocating it but the most profound was gunblue490. Also, a fellow shooter at the range is an advocate of gunblue490's approach. Quite frankly, I thought both were nuts. I was very skeptical but decided to test the theory which basically advocates avoiding aggressive copper removal.

So, I selected one rifle and used only C4 and a bronze brush for cleaning basically only focusing on carbon removal. C4 does remove some minimal copper much like Shooter's Choice. I also extended the cleaning frequency out to about 60 rounds from 30. What I discover was that after the bore was initially "re-seasoned" with a few shots to presumably reestablish some copper plating in the bore, the flyers disappeared and seasoning was no longer necessary after subsequent cleanings, much like the long time experience I had with many years of using shooter's choice.

I also discovered that velocity increased about 50 to 100 f/s and group size reduced albeit only slightly. But most importantly I was able to retain point of impact after cleaning.

The only conclusion I could draw was that the aggressive copper removing was causing my problems. Almost a year into this new cleaning regime and the results have remained consistent, no only with the test rifle but all other (i.e. 14)

Look, I'm not expert or even a top competitive shooter, just a varmint and predator hunter. I'm not making a pronouncement that I discovered something new. This wasn't even my idea - I simply tried something new that others proposed to solve a problem I had. So, I'm only reporting what I observed, and it worked for me in my rifles.
 
Need to amend my prior post, I started with C4, then proceded to Cu+2 and bronze brush for the copper. In this instance, I wanted all the copper out fully aware I would need to re-season the bore in the future.

This particual 7RM was my primary hunting rifle in the 80s and early 90s and hasn't been fired since my last elk hunt in 1997. I'd periocially pull it out and run a couple patches through re-oil and put away.

Last week I borescoped it with my Teslong, and was stunned at the amount of copper in the bore, every groove was lined from the leade to muzzle. Wish I'd had the presence of mind to take some bore pics before I scrubbed the copper out.

Shooter's Choice was my previous solvent of choice and had also used Butch's Bore Shine. Like you, I also clean in the house and although the odor never bothered me, my wife wasn't particularly happy about it.

I absolutely believe there's a point of equilibium, especially with factory barrels (probably more so with Savage), and let the target tell me when it's time for a deep clean and re-season. Since this particular rifle is now more or less a safe queen I'm fine with it devoid of copper. ;-)
 

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