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.220 Swift Chamber length vs. case length

I just measured my Ruger 77R in swift and it measured 2.240 and measured my 77V and it measured 2.246. In regards to case trimming, I believe the Sierra manual shows 2.204 or 5. What would you suggest that I trim my cases to? I've always trimmed after every use but I'm thinking that is just shortening case life and causing extra work in the reloading process. What's a good cushion, 15-20 thousandths? More? Will going longer then I have been, which I believe was 2.190-92 affect accuracy or is that something that I'll just have to find out through trial and error? What say you?
 
why cut off perfectly good brass. more brass less chance of a carbon ring...shorter brass big carbon ring.
now how did you measure chamber neck length ??
i find .005 is plenty if trimming every time...which i do
 
I'm a novice, but my suggestion is to stay with the manual and trim to 2.205. If you load a bunch of ammo with brass way over spec, and something happens to you, you may not know who's hands the ammo may get into later down the road. Maybe I'm just over cautious. I can prevent carbon ring with proper cleaning.
 
why cut off perfectly good brass. more brass less chance of a carbon ring...shorter brass big carbon ring.
now how did you measure chamber neck length ??
i find .005 is plenty if trimming every time...which i do
I used one of the Sinclair "pills" that you put in a prepped case and then close the bolt, open and remove case and then measure the length of the case with the pill in place.
 
I used one of the Sinclair "pills" that you put in a prepped case and then close the bolt, open and remove case and then measure the length of the case with the pill in place.
What is this “pill”?
Not familiar with this at all
 
swift brass grows fast because of the shoulder, might cut them to 2.215 or 2.220, cut them all the same, keep ammo divided up between rifles, and check every 2 firings, try to bump .002 on the shoulder that may help with brass flow but I could be wrong, swift brass tends to loose primer pockets quick if run hot, but if you bump more than .002 you will get case separation, I had a swift when I 1st started reloading and knew nothing about bumpin shoulders and had issues with case separation, I knew nothing about keeping the case tight in the chamber..
 
I used one of the Sinclair "pills" that you put in a prepped case and then close the bolt, open and remove case and then measure the length of the case with the pill in place.
Good for you for checking the chamber length with the Sinclair plug! :cool: As regards trim length, .010 under chamber length is the normal 'trim to' length. As a Swift fan, I do trim them a bit more (.020) as the brass does like to flow a bit.

Why more (all) hand loaders don't take the time to know how long their chambers are just baffles me. :confused: I have a big assortment of the Sinclair case length gauges along with some I've made from brass on the lathe. They are invaluable and reusable. Along with the Hornady Comparator tool, this should be one of the first things any precision hand loader has on his reloading bench.

hiPb6Gol.jpg


bbnuz8Gl.jpg


If you're getting a barrel chambered, ask your 'smith to run the reamer part way into a piece of aluminum and mill half away like this one. That way, you also have a visual of the keck length.

YtW02V9l.jpg


lSqeS19l.jpg


Good shootin' -Al
 
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Good for you for checking the chamber length with the Sinclair plug! :cool: As regards trim length, .010 under chamber length is the normal 'trim to' length. As a Swift fan, I do trim them a bit more (.020) as the brass does like to flow a bit.

Why more (all) hand loaders don't take the time to know how long their chambers are just baffles me. :confused: I have a big assortment of the Sinclair case length gauges along with some I've made from brass on the lathe. They are invaluable and reusable. Along with the Hornady Comparator tool, this should be one of the first things any precision hand loader has on his reloading bench.

hiPb6Gol.jpg


bbnuz8Gl.jpg


If you're getting a barrel chambered, ask your 'smith to run the reamer part way into a piece of aluminum and mill half away like this one. That way, you also have a visual of the keck length.

YtW02V9l.jpg


lSqeS19l.jpg


Good shootin' -Al
This was the first time I'd ever used one of the Sinclair plugs and I had to seat it quite a bit deeper then it said to in the instructions as the bolt wouldn't even begin to close at the length or depth they specified. In fact, I kinked the case just a wee bit on my first attempt. I think I ended up seating the plug 20 thou deeper before I could get the bolt to close. The plug was within a knats ass of the end of the neck. I did run the case through my FL sizer die before and after the first attempt to make sure the case was good and was trimmed to the specified length.
 
This was the first time I'd ever used one of the Sinclair plugs and I had to seat it quite a bit deeper then it said to in the instructions as the bolt wouldn't even begin to close at the length or depth they specified. In fact, I kinked the case just a wee bit on my first attempt. I think I ended up seating the plug 20 thou deeper before I could get the bolt to close. The plug was within a knats ass of the end of the neck. I did run the case through my FL sizer die before and after the first attempt to make sure the case was good and was trimmed to the specified length.
I've noticed that the later versions (black in color) have quite a bit longer 'step' at the end of the plug than the earlier ones and you need to trim the case neck more than the .100 they recommend. -Al
 

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