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Chambering wilson seating dies / Gretan vs Viper jig?

I saw a youTube video that a European shooter did for some dies that he reamed, one thing I like was he bored and internally threaded a short piece of round 1.25" stock. Without removing the threaded piece from the chuck he threaded the dies in to ream them that way the reamed portion was concentric to the threads on the die stock.

I liked the method, granted there is a little more time threading and boring and some material waste, but I don't have collets.
 
Never woulda thunk so much effort it reaming a die.
Flame suit on, how far off can the OD of the die be, from its bore?
I'd stick it in a collet and ream it. I fail to see how a few thousandths "off" could make any difference at the target for a die- run in a press that's not even close to those types of tolerances.
 
The point of making a wilson seater rather than just buying one is so you can use the chamber reamer and have a very close match to the brass. The seater stem is fit very tight in the top of the die and if the chamber is not dialed into that part of the die bore then it kind of defeats the whole point of an inline seater die. If you are not going to dial the die in properly, and drill/prebore to make sure the chamber is dialed to the stem then Id recommend a factory reamed die. They are much looser and will allow for the case to float. The tighter you make things the more accurate you have to machine them.
 
Tru Bore alignment system but a cathead/viper fixture will work. For one for dies it does not need to be super big Find about a foot of 2" high schedule schedule tubing
 
Been meaning to make a new spider that was one piece and very rigid. I'll be able to coaxially indicate a Wilson blank, barrel or action. Made out of a better grade of carbon steel. Matched the spindle taper. The brass tipped screws will be made out of 1/2-20 cap screw and will be recessed in counterbore. That way the light cut stringers won't wrap up, lol. My old one, the screws stick out and like to catch stringers...1645909253-picsay.jpg1645909269-picsay.jpg
 
There should be standard iso drawings out there. I trig'ed out all my locations from the center. PM me if you need help figuring it out...
 
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This drawing should help you out with the dimensions of the D1-5 mount. And here is a bolt hole calculator for figuring out the X & Y coordinates.

littlemachineshop.com

Bolt Circle Calculator

The premier source of tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists.
littlemachineshop.com littlemachineshop.com
 

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Tucker..that's the easy part, lol...you need to locate the lock screws. I know on the D1-4, they are offset. Not sure if you can use the same degree offset and just calculate for the larger diameter pin and lock screw? The lock screw isn't necessary, but can be annoying to deal with if the pin rotates too far when handling.1645975929-picsay.jpg
 
With a DRO, you find center, then select bolt circle function. Enter number of holes, diameter, start angle and end angle. The DRO will give you the coordinates to move to for each hole. You can cycle thru all the holes and spot drill, then back thru to drill, finally back thru to ream or thread. For the lock screws, they'll be a fixed displacement from the pin holes, so move back to center and enter new diameter and angles and do all of them.
 
I've seen it done, but will have to give it a shot on some scrap. A TMX D1-5 backplate is about $239 - With the cost of steel right now it's probably just as economical to start with that and bolt a jig to it.
 
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