Faux Panda

[Ledd Slinger]

Lemme check my junkpile. Yep let me in tooView attachment 1317031View attachment 1317032

I like how that sleeve has the big panda style tang on it

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I like how that sleeve has the big panda style tang on it

Yea a lot of sleeves dont cover the tang and thats a shame because of the looks and the bedding

 

[spike-55]

Yea a lot of sleeves dont cover the tang and thats a shame because of the looks and the bedding

Found it!!!! Looks better than I remembered!!!!
Stan

 

[AlNyhus]

How was it inletting and bedding the stock? Did you mill out the inletting on a 700 SA stock, use a stock with different inletting, or start from a flat top blank?

It was glued in when it came to me for rehab. I converted it from a glue in to pillar bedding using three pillars. -Al

 

[AlNyhus]

Both. I’ve never done one before so kind flying from the seat of my pants and just going with what I think will work good. I already have the top of the 722 receiver drilled and tapped for 8-40 screws and glued in a single shot follower. Plan on bolting thru the sleeve to the receiver scope rail screw holes but only tightening enough to assist holding central alignment of the receiver in the sleeve as the glue cures. I also plan on making it a dual port action by milling in a left load port. Will probably pre-mill the steel receiver prior to gluing and then mill the sleeve after everything is together and glue is cured. That way I’ll have a good tooling guide when milling out the port on the aluminum sleeve to match them perfectly.

Make sure to locate the actions serial number relative to the sleeve and mill a slot in the sleeve to expose the number.
If you have a copy of Precision Shootings 'Benchrest Shooting Primer', there are several good articles on sleeving actions from top 'smiths of the day. Lots of good tips in there! -Al

 

[Ledd Slinger]

It was glued in when it came to me for rehab. I converted it from a glue in to pillar bedding using three pillars. -Al

Nice. I’m not going to glue the stock either. Sleeve came with a slot milled for the serial number so good to go there. Well, that’s assuming the number is in the same spot on a 722 as a 700 but will check when putting it together.

 

[DGP4]

Being totally ignorant but very curious about sleeved actions, has anyone built a one piece sleeve and chassis all in one? If so, I'd love to see something like that!

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Being totally ignorant but very curious about sleeved actions, has anyone built a one piece sleeve and chassis all in one? If so, I'd love to see something like that!

Closest thing would be a barrel block

 

[WayneShaw]

Being totally ignorant but very curious about sleeved actions, has anyone built a one piece sleeve and chassis all in one? If so, I'd love to see something like that!

I have seen a sleeve made with the scope rings.

 

[DGP4]

Thanks guys! Didn't mean to derail this thread but it just popped into my head that such a thing might be possible.

 

[AlNyhus]

Nice work I have a 722 I will be doing the same thing to. Just picked up this sleeve from a member on here for the job. I will be doing a picatinny rail on top. Might cut a couple inches off tho.
Need to get a large diameter barrel for it as well. Plan on doing a stepped double shoulder

When you say a "...stepped double shoulder", do you mean to have the barrel shoulder index on the front of the receiver and the front of the sleeve simultaneously?

Good shootin' -Al

 

[DaveTooley]

Being totally ignorant but very curious about sleeved actions, has anyone built a one piece sleeve and chassis all in one? If so, I'd love to see something like that!

You are being redirected...

 

[Ledd Slinger]

When you say a "...stepped double shoulder", do you mean to have the barrel shoulder index on the front of the receiver and the front of the sleeve simultaneously?

Good shootin' -Al

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking. Leave the receiver shoulder touch point .002” short compared to the aluminum sleeve shoulder and torque shoulder on sleeve until receiver shoulder is tight. Would require a barrel with 1.450” shank.

If I don’t do a double shoulder then I would at least want to turn the shank down to a 1.358” OD since the ID of my sleeve is 1.360. Don’t see the point in having the sleeve extend well beyond the face of the receiver if it isn’t going to support the barrel in some way. A flat bottom is a great advantage but it doesn’t need all that extra length to resist barrel torque. I want to make use of the extra length in supporting the barrel to reduce stress on the short Remington factory tenon when using a long heavy full floating barrel.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I wouldnt do a double shoulder. I dont think a sleeve is a good barrel shank stop. Id get a 1.350 barrel and put it on in there. I bet thats what it was designed to take

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I wouldnt do a double shoulder. I dont think a sleeve is a good barrel shank stop. Id get a 1.350 barrel and put it on in there. I bet thats what it was designed to take

Wouldn’t be using the sleeve as the main shank stop. The receiver shoulder would do that as it normally does and the shank shoulder would only act to reduce tenon thread stress from the long heavy barrel.

Tho it would be easier to just do a 1.358” shank inside the sleeve and forget the extra shoulder. I’m just overthinking things like I always do...

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Or how about this...
I do a double shoulder with a shank having .002” clearance, BUT torque the barrel to the receiver as normal FIRST. So now picture the receiver with a barrel on it and an extra shoulder for the sleeve farther forward. Then insert the barreled receiver from the front of the sleeve and utilize the sleeve shoulder as a square ‘so to speak’.

This way the sleeve shoulder isn’t torqued on the sleeve face. The barrel shank with .002” clearance keeps the receiver concentric in the sleeve and the sleeve shoulder keeps the receiver perfectly straight in the sleeve as the epoxy cures. Would also help ensure there’s an even amount of epoxy around the receiver. I think that’s a better way of utilizing a double shoulder design.

Of course the chances of a Remington receiver, especially an old 722, being as straight as the sleeve or machining of the shoulder probably aren’t that great...

 

[AlNyhus]

Man, I think any part of the barrel contacting the sleeve anywhere forward of the action face is a recipe for Bad JuJu.

Just my 2 cents worth from the cheap seats..... -Al

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Man, I think any part of the barrel contacting the sleeve anywhere forward of the action face is a recipe for Bad JuJu.

Just my 2 cents worth from the cheap seats..... -Al

Yeah maybe when thinking of terms of a free floating barrel but the sleeve is no longer a separate piece of the receiver once bonded. And why do so many BR shooters use barrel blocks on heavy guns? Those are a separate piece from the receiver touching the barre.

 

[AlNyhus]

Yeah maybe when thinking of terms of a free floating barrel but the sleeve is no longer a separate piece of the receiver once bonded. And why do so many BR shooters use barrel blocks on heavy guns? Those are a separate piece from the receiver touching the barre.

A barrel blocked gun....where the action floats...is a whole different kettle of fish.

Good shootin'. -Al

 

[DaveTooley]

A dear friend of mine in the late 70's early 80's built several BR guns with a front sleeve. Just the receiver ring glued in. I have one of his rail guns that I still pull out once in a great while. Hell I put a 2" Unertl on it. You ought to see the looks I get. I built several rail guns for people configured that way.