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Chamber Short Skinny Barrel

Edd

Gold $$ Contributor
I have a 24 inch long Krieger chromoly barrel blank that is a Remington Mountain rifle contour. I would like to have it threaded, chambered, and crowned at a finished length of 18 inches. The cartridge is a 6.5x47 Lapua and I have the reamer.

Where is a good place to have this done?
 
The chamber shouldn't be the problem, it's cutting and crowning the 18". I made an extension from a piece of 1-1/4 bar, bored and threaded for 1-1/16-16 to thread on the barrel threads. Lets it stick out the headstock. I threaded to other end for 18 threads. And I made one for .875-32 to thread on tuner threads.

If you use a steady, all that is mute.
 
I have threaded inserts that are a tight fit in the spindle. That eliminates a lot of tolerance stacking which can creep in with distance.
 
I use that setup for muzzle work on chambered barrels. For chamber work on short barrel I use bushing made the same way but with a bored hole to insert the barrel. I turn the muzzle between centers to a diameter that fits the bushing. Bushings are made in one setup for concentricity.
 
I have threaded inserts that are a tight fit in the spindle. That eliminates a lot of tolerance stacking which can creep in with distance.
Thats the way I have done shorties for years. Recently recrowned a GAP 18" and brought it to better than new groups. It only matters at the keyboard, the target will never know the difference!
 
I had a guy suggest this to me-
Thoroughly clean the inside of the spindle.
Wrap the end of the barrel with masking tape till it will slip inside the spindle ID with a snug fit.
Setup, indicate, etc., the end of the barrel(muzzle in this case) in the chuck as usual.
I tried it with a take off barrel just to prove or disprove the concept, and I have to say, it worked.
No chatter, no wobble or vibration, and as mentioned above, the target will never know.
 
As an experiment on a 16 inch barrel I made a brass tapered sleeve and tapped it down on the barrel then used my True Bore Alignment chuck to thread barrel for a suppressor adapter. More barrel out past chuck face then would normally want but it worked fine. I have extensions that screw on tenon also but wanted to see if this would work
 

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As an experiment on a 16 inch barrel I made a brass tapered sleeve and tapped it down on the barrel then used my True Bore Alignment chuck to thread barrel for a suppressor adapter. More barrel out past chuck face then would normally want but it worked fine. I have extensions that screw on tenon also but wanted to see if this would work
Thats an awful lot of barrel hangin out
 
DaveTooley has said that is his standard method of dialing in a barrel. You will need to ask him why he does it that way.
I have done it both ways and could not tell the difference accuracy wise. As Dave explained to me, the throat section only has to be parallel and perpendicular to the bearing surface of the bullet you are using. Very smart man!

Paul

Paul
 
I have a Mori-Seiki lathe with a headstock that too long for my barrels to stick out so I can't dial in the end buried in the headstock. The bore of my headstock is nicely machined and runs true to the spindle so I make bushings like Mr. Tooley and do all my barrels that way on both ends.

I have numerous bushings with different id's that are pressed on the shank or a turned down section of the muzzle. The od's of teh bushings are turned a little smaller than the bore of the spindle and then I cut an o-ring groove in them. The o-ring provides a nice snug fit in the spindle bore but you can still slide it in and out easily.

When chambering I just dial in the throat area with my long reach indicator. I've often wondered how true the end inside the headstock is running but I have no way to really check it. With a 26" barrel it is 4" or more inside the spindle bore.

I haven't done a ton of barrels like some of the gentlemen on here, but on paper my results have been really great so that's all that matters to me.
 

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