That's what I currently do when I load in batches. Every time I load up a batch I re-zero and get some velocity stats to see if it changed much. 5-7 shot group for every 1-2 hundred loads. It moved some with the 308 that I started on but I have done a better job controlling my 6.5 creed and it moved very little per batch.Seems to me that all you would need to do is note the shift(s) and adjust your scope as needed every time you change loads.
The one that will shoot the best is the one with the least stress in the blank and the best internal dimensions period. A heavier conture may be better as the barrel heats up, but I doubt it will matter much. The bullet doesn't touch the out side it is influenced by only the inside.
Any of the barrel profiles listed would likely provide more than adequate group size. The question is since this is a gun that is going to see significantly varied conditions out doors while shooting I want to pick the one that acts the stiffest. Where there is the least shift in POI if my reloads fall out of a node due to changing conditions.It seems you are asking which profile will give the widest, flattest node in order to achieve the smallest groups? If not, then what is the objective? If so I can tell you a great node does not assure a decent group.
Is there a difference between cut and button barrels in how their poi changes? I think they have different stress relief procedures.The one that will shoot the best is the one with the least stress in the blank and the best internal dimensions period. A heavier conture may be better as the barrel heats up, but I doubt it will matter much. The bullet doesn't touch the out side it is influenced by only the inside.
A Cut barrel will have less stress induced so stress releaving will have better results.Is there a difference between cut and button barrels in how their poi changes? I think they have different stress relief procedures.
Is dimensional consistency when removing barrel material completely controlled by stress relief or does rifling method itself contribute to it?Also, reducing the diameter of a barrel blank can cause the interior diameter to enlarge, and the more contouring the more likely of that happening. Thus a lighter contour barrel has a greater chance of having internal consistency.
interesting.A Cut barrel will have less stress induced so stress releaving will have better results.
Just my thoughts though.
Is dimensional consistency when removing barrel material completely controlled by stress relief or does rifling method itself contribute to it?
Do both rifles have their actions bedded and barrels floated?That's what I currently do when I load in batches. Every time I load up a batch I re-zero and get some velocity stats to see if it changed much. 5-7 shot group for every 1-2 hundred loads. It moved some with the 308 that I started on but I have done a better job controlling my 6.5 creed and it moved very little per batch
Barrels are floated, but neither has been bedded.Do both rifles have their actions bedded and barrels floated?
There is no need to bed a chassis, they can be torqued pretty tight. I have a Savage 12LRP in a MDT Tac 21 and it is set. It came in a H&S with the aluminum block, i never bedded it, kind of the same a chassis. I did read here last year or longer someone did bed the block.Barrels are floated, but neither has been bedded.
I sold the 308 to my brother in law and its now in an alum chassis. Can you do a bedding job in a chassis? Does it help in a chassis? We are still doing lead dev on that gun as we replaced the barrel with a reduced freebore 7.5 twist 6.5 creed to shoot the sierra 150s.
The 12 lrp is in its factory HS precision fiberglass stock with aluminum bedding block. Can I bed that?
Chassis stocks can be bedded. Factory actions are machined before hardening which warps them very slightly, with the result that you are putting a slightly distorted action into milled bedding that is straight, but does not fit perfectly because of the action distortion. I know that this will come out of left field but go do some, make that quite a bit of reading and viewing at http://erniethegunsmith.com/ His method for bedding aluminum bedding blocks works very well, and is based on sound principles. I would think that the same thing would apply to a chassis. I would never do much serious load development without first bedding the action. You need to have a good foundation to work from. Would you build your house on fresh, uncompacted fill?Barrels are floated, but neither has been bedded.
I sold the 308 to my brother in law and its now in an alum chassis. Can you do a bedding job in a chassis? Does it help in a chassis? We are still doing lead dev on that gun as we replaced the barrel with a reduced freebore 7.5 twist 6.5 creed to shoot the sierra 150s.
The 12 lrp is in its factory HS precision fiberglass stock with aluminum bedding block. Can I bed that?
Button rifling does induce stress and we stress relieve and monitor how much the barrels shrinks and ever heat of steel will shrink the same if it doesn’t we have to change tooling size and get back to size and if I turn a Barrel to a number one contour muzzle of .560 od it will not open up in size to where it matters.No. Button rifling adds a lot of stress. Cut rifling not so much. @Stan Taylor can describe all this more thoroughly.
That said, any good quality barrel from a reputable manufacturer will likely shoot well.
Hey I went to store an stocked up on popcorn and budlight.Can't believe this thread is still going.
Is heating the only way to stress relieve a barrel?Button rifling does induce stress and we stress relieve and monitor how much the barrels shrinks and ever heat of steel will shrink the same if it doesn’t we have to change tooling size and get back to size and if I turn a Barrel to a number one contour muzzle of .560 od it will not open up in size to where it matters.
You could try running a case of Bud through it.Is heating the only way to stress relieve a barrel?
Usually works for my stress.You could try running a case of Bud through it.