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Scope Inserts

Mounted a Nightforce scope with Nightforce rings on a Parker Hale target rifle. I'm out of windage of the scope. Does Nightforce make scope ring inserts? If I switch rings with have the inserts, are the inserts place on both front and back, or only front?
 
As far as I know Burris is the only company making ring inserts for their rings. In their instructions it is explained that when placing inserts in the rings to place one in front ring and rear ring.
 
I'm not sure what issue you are having. Is the rail mis-aligned? Due to the tapped holes in the receiver? If this is the case you really only have 3 options that I can suggest.
1) Weld the mounting holes and re-drill 2) Use a one- piece base with a windage adjustable rear and swivelling front. 3) UK company "Sportsmatch" make rings that are "split" - the base and ring are bolted together and may have sufficient adjustment (ATP90) .They are good quality rings - I have 2 pairs of theirs on rifles, non adjustable though. I assume that the rifle is a TX1200. Very nice.

 
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The only rings with inserts of which I am aware are the Burris and just bought and installed my 5th pair. I love those rings.

I have used a pair tears ago to correct windage and add elevation at the same time. I placed the rear rings at an angle withe the bottom +20 centered at 5 o'clock and the top -20 centered at 11 o'clock. Worked out fine, the rifle got on the target at 1000 yards.

How much correction do you need? And I'm guessing thus is a 30mm scope.
 
Those Burris rings can and DO correct for windage and elevation.

Also like that fact that they do not mar the scope with those plastic inserts.
 
NZ_Fclass - Rifle is a Parker Hale M84
Turtle - Yes NF NXS 8-32
If you get the Burris XTR 30mm rings, they should come with an assortment of inserts. I would install a +x and -x in the rear ring and 0s in the front ring. I usually install a +5 -5 pair in the rear ring to get me close to 0 at 100. For longer range work, I do different combinations. Please note the distance between the rings is critical in determining the actual cant.

The generate cant itself is imprecise; this is nylon stuff after all. Just try to get approximately the adjustment you need and refine with the windage/elevation knobs.
 
NZ_Fclass - Rifle is a Parker Hale M84
Turtle - Yes NF NXS 8-32
M84 even better. Do you still have the PH scope rail or have you converted to Picatinny? Im guessing that with a 30mm scope it's Picatinny. Usually the PH holes are straight. So.. has the barrel been changed? Are you convinced it is on straight? If it isn't, no rings or shims will cure the problem.
 
If you get the Burris XTR 30mm rings, they should come with an assortment of inserts. I would install a +x and -x in the rear ring and 0s in the front ring. I usually install a +5 -5 pair in the rear ring to get me close to 0 at 100. For longer range work, I do different combinations. Please note the distance between the rings is critical in determining the actual cant.

The generate cant itself is imprecise; this is nylon stuff after all. Just try to get approximately the adjustment you need and refine with the windage/elevation knobs.
I'm with you, TT, but with the standard Burris 30mm rings the only inserts available (which you get in the set) are zeroes and 10's. But 10's in the front and 10's in the back give you a total possible correction of (about) 20 moa.

Unless I'm rigging up a light hunting rifle (and want light rings) I get the Burris XTR Signature rings, which give you 0's, 5's, 10's and 20's to pick from, and all come in the set.

Either the Burris Signatures or the XTR Signatures would probably fix the problem. I use the inserts to position the scope as close as possible to its ideal position, then do the fine-tuning with the turrets. The "ideal position" for me is more or less centered windage and elevation 5 or 10 moa above rock-bottom, which leaves a lot of elevation available for LR shooting.
 

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