I shipped it off to get fixed yesterday. I'll update this post when I get it back.
PTG bolt slow to start cocking firing pin on rem 700
- Thread starter Gil P.
- Start date
I'm not sure, but I thought they were different.
The cp stuck out of the shroud 86 thou when cocked, and was 202 thou deep when in the fired position.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
That's much more than you need. About .040" more.
Edd
Gold $$ Contributor
Who is fixing it?
ArtinNC
Gold $$ Contributor
Where do you get a new longer cocking piece ? everyone I have seen are about the same .
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
That's the maybe part.
If I still lived in Gastonia I'd say stop by and we could figure it out pretty quickly.
If I still lived in Gastonia I'd say stop by and we could figure it out pretty quickly.
chuckshooter
Silver $$ Contributor
I just received my $400 Remington custom shop barreled action, actually just the bolt. ( stupid CA, I have to wait ten days even though I already have many guns) and it came with a one piece stripped PTG bolt. the first thing I did was try a couple of different firing pin assembly, both do not have enough fall or pin extrusion. the firing pin where it starts to taper larger is hitting the inside of the bolt pin hole. so I either need to trim the firing pin at the taper or relieve the inside of the bolt gently, sounds like this could be one of your problems., the bolt won't cycle in any of my other Remingtons, and since I don't have the action yet, I will have to wait to find out if it has the same hard lift.
WSnyder
Silver $$ Contributor
If it's a PTG BR bolt (w .062" pin dia) it isn't designed to be used with a standard Remington pin. PTG sells a pin specific to those bolts or you can machine the tapered portion back as PTG or Gre-Tan does.
Attachments
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
The firing pins of stock Remington bolts do not stay in their boltface holes through the entire cock and fire cycle, which can cause issues. On the other hand most custom actions have a deep enough bolt face hole and long enough tip so that the tip of the pin stays in the hole through the entire cycle. Kiff made the bolts for Siller's clones and may have for his bolts with that improvement. I would not throw that feature away. Instead I suggest that you modify the pin tip rather than the bolt.
ArtinNC
Gold $$ Contributor
Your ever lucky that the bolt will even come close to working , PT&G is a rip off company > ordered a reamer and was told that 8 weeks I would have it well it is now 18 weeks and said it was shipped twice and will not give me a tracking # and if it was shipped when they said I would have had it a month ago . STAY AWAY PT&G they are crooks .
Art
Art
Are Stiller bolts still made by PTG?
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
I don't know, but I believe that they did for a long time and made the bolts for the Shilen actions that Stiller made the bodies for.
I got my bolt and rifle back today. There truly is a night and day difference, the work done by Alex Wheeler is l exceptional. The Remington bolt lift and close now feels a lot like my BAT.
Alex replaced the old FP assembly and made a new bolt shroud, among many other things. The old FP assembly was one of those lightweight ones with an aluminum FP. Alex advised me that those speed lock type assemblies cause issues and won't give you consistent ignition.
Opening and closing feels very smooth and there's no more cock on close.
I told Alex that I was having accuracy issues with this rifle. After I fired 100 rounds to beak my barrel in, my ammo kept speeding up the more I shot it.
I found a load shooting 140 hybrids at 2800 fps using H4350. I cleaned after every range session and the velocity crept up to 2950 fps. I tried to eliminate every variable I could that may have influenced the velocity. Every once in a while I could get good groups, but most of the time I would get horrible groups.
I told Alex about this and he bore scoped the barrel. He found that the rifling extending all the way back to the neck. There was no freebore. Thinking about it now, I should have came to this conclusion a long time ago. I used Alex's method of finding the distance to the lands on this rifle and ended up with the ogive of the bullet all the way into the neck of my case before I found the distance to the lands. I thought there was something wrong with what I was doing, despite being successful with his method in the past.
Alex also found a lot of copper fouling in the barrel in front of the neck. I think my ever increasing velocity was due to the build up of copper in front of the neck and jamming bullets into it.
Alex put a throat in the barrel and hopefully that will solve the problem. It appears that the barrel may be oversized. Thats likely the reason why the throat was never cut by the reamer the original gunsmith used. IIRC, the original gunsmith said he reams the throat 5 ten thousandths larger than whatever the standard land diameter is supposed to be.
I cleaned when I got the rifle back. I always used a nylon brush, but was advised to use a bronze brush as well as Montana Xtreme copper killer for copper and carbon fouling.
If you have never used montana xtreme before, you'll be surprised how strong it is. That stuff will wake the dead lol. I strongly advise against attempting to reproduce for a few days after handling it.
I used Sweets in the past, but this stuff is stronger. I thought I removed all the copper fouling from my barrel before I sent it off, but the Montana Xtreme showed me I was wrong.
I'm hoping this barrel will be accurate. I'll keep this post updated.
Alex replaced the old FP assembly and made a new bolt shroud, among many other things. The old FP assembly was one of those lightweight ones with an aluminum FP. Alex advised me that those speed lock type assemblies cause issues and won't give you consistent ignition.
Opening and closing feels very smooth and there's no more cock on close.
I told Alex that I was having accuracy issues with this rifle. After I fired 100 rounds to beak my barrel in, my ammo kept speeding up the more I shot it.
I found a load shooting 140 hybrids at 2800 fps using H4350. I cleaned after every range session and the velocity crept up to 2950 fps. I tried to eliminate every variable I could that may have influenced the velocity. Every once in a while I could get good groups, but most of the time I would get horrible groups.
I told Alex about this and he bore scoped the barrel. He found that the rifling extending all the way back to the neck. There was no freebore. Thinking about it now, I should have came to this conclusion a long time ago. I used Alex's method of finding the distance to the lands on this rifle and ended up with the ogive of the bullet all the way into the neck of my case before I found the distance to the lands. I thought there was something wrong with what I was doing, despite being successful with his method in the past.
Alex also found a lot of copper fouling in the barrel in front of the neck. I think my ever increasing velocity was due to the build up of copper in front of the neck and jamming bullets into it.
Alex put a throat in the barrel and hopefully that will solve the problem. It appears that the barrel may be oversized. Thats likely the reason why the throat was never cut by the reamer the original gunsmith used. IIRC, the original gunsmith said he reams the throat 5 ten thousandths larger than whatever the standard land diameter is supposed to be.
I cleaned when I got the rifle back. I always used a nylon brush, but was advised to use a bronze brush as well as Montana Xtreme copper killer for copper and carbon fouling.
If you have never used montana xtreme before, you'll be surprised how strong it is. That stuff will wake the dead lol. I strongly advise against attempting to reproduce for a few days after handling it.
I used Sweets in the past, but this stuff is stronger. I thought I removed all the copper fouling from my barrel before I sent it off, but the Montana Xtreme showed me I was wrong.
I'm hoping this barrel will be accurate. I'll keep this post updated.
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