Won't make the rig shoot any better but it'll be cooler than hell.Automotive high solids clear coat. 3 coats sand and repeat until perfect. Sand and buff to a mirror finish
Thanks. I'll actually be shooting this rifle without it finished....I would not use filler on the maple, it doesnt really need it and the pores don't really accept it either.
The walnut center probably does. I actually like rottenstone as a grain filler for walnut because I like the little black streaks. But it will probably stain the maple ugly gray, you may be able to mask it off if youre careful.
Shooting a straight clear will prevent the other big problem with trying to keep maple light and that's blotching. But it will probably be pretty plain. Maple doesn't take dyes evenly and stains look even worse. You almost need to go a bit darker to conceal the blotching. Pre-stain sorta works but mostly it's crap.
Find a piece of maple at the wood store in fargo and sand it so it appears the same as your stock and try some clear on some boards.
If you're in moffit this weekend you can ask Mike d. He ran a car restoration shop and builds stocks too.
Be careful not to get solvent on it. It'll soak in deep and may well cause adhesion problems for whatever finish eventually goes on it.Thanks. I'll actually be shooting this rifle without it finished....
This and the wood can be effected from temperature and humidity ruining the stock.Be careful not to get solvent on it. It'll soak in deep and may well cause adhesion problems for whatever finish eventually goes on it.
That thing is begging for alkanet root steeped for months in flax seed oil to 'pop' the grain and then finished in an old school slacum.Solid wood, but in 3 glued layers. Nicely figured.
Cannot really capture the figuring since it's bare wood, but here's a shot.
View attachment 1266739
Dont shoot it till you finish it. TAKE IT FROM A KID WHO COULDN'T WAIT TO DRIVE HIS PRIMERED CAR...
That looks like trouble,Bit too late for that. Has 80 rounds on it. The last 9 shots at 1060 yds (see target below) using two different powder charges, shot odd-even. But at least load development is done until the barrel settles in, Was going to shoot 80 more at the weekend match to get it there.View attachment 1266910
I have seen more than one unfinished stock on the line that kicked butt. If this is a job you want to tackle, pick up a cheap spray gun and go to a local body shop paint supply shop. Stay away from cheap clear, it wont harden hard enough and the gun will always stick in the bags. Buy a decent clear and have at it. Ideally you rub the stock down with epoxy and let it harden first. But you dont have to. 3 coats of clear, 10 minutes or so between them and let it dry. Sand between rounds. 4 rounds later you should have all the grain filled. Usually 12 coats will do it. Sand and buff. Nice thing about clear is you really cant go wrong. I enjoyed doing paint work until I got too busy to do it all. Its really fun to watch a stock change as you clear or paint it.Thanks. I'll actually be shooting this rifle without it finished....
And to make matters worse the kitty might just be wearing the mighty Redneck Creedmoor Talisman.That's a beautiful piece of wood, Drew! During the COVID lockdown, I [briefly] considered having my two primary .308s re-done with custom wood stocks. One of the two ideas was very close to what you have there. Gorgeous...AND it shoots!
I can only second what several others have stated...be very careful with it if you plan to continue shooting it unfinished. I might be mistaken, but I believe there is a long-standing F-Class rule that states if you damage a wood stock while shooting it before it receives a finish, you must then have it painted pink with a "Hello Kitty" design. It's an obscure rule, but I'm pretty sure I remember seeing it.![]()