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Reloading equipment have/still need

ErikH

With the difficulties of getting equipment, I still have a couple of things on backorder. However, I've also been able to pick up a few things. My questions are: should I still get my back-ordered items or will one take the place of the other? And what would be the next thing to get?

What I have:
Lee Deluxe APP Reloading Press
Lee ACP w/ Depriming Kit
Hornady Cam-Lock Case Trimmer Kit

Backordered:
Hornady Lock-N-Load Single Stage Press

My plan is to start with .380 since I have the brass and bullets already, as well as a 4-die carbide set.
 
Did you mean .380 ACP? Or is that a typo and you meant 308 WIN?

It is difficult for those of us who have been loading for almost 50 years to keep track of what is and is not included in some of the current kit bundles. The only reason I have a clue at all is due to gifting them to beginners.

I am hoping you meant 308 WIN rather than 380 ACP sine the 380 is a little tricky as a beginner candidate, but not impossible. If you meant 308 WIN, you have a good starting point for a bottle neck cartridge.

To begin with, I would advise you study the manuals and beginning reloading books and dive into the case cleaning. If you have a case cleaning method, you can get your brass cleaned and sorted to make your first visual inspections easier. I don't know if your kits come with a cleaning method like a dry media tumbler or not. That is what I would recommend to a rookie, right after a very strong recommendation to get a mentor.

If you are alone, and very careful, you will start by following one of your manuals step by step and if you don't have something you need you will discover it soon enough.
 
Yes, .380 ACP. Sorry, I kinda rushed my post...

The only reason I chose .380 ACP is that I don't have any. But I'm more than willing to try 9mm, .45 ACP, or .30-06 if that would be safer/easier.

I do have a vibratory cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner. so far I just have the .380 ACP brass cleaned and de-primed.
 
If you are starting with pistol ammo, be sure to pay careful attention to the components and overall cartridge length you find in your reloading manual. Handgun ammo can be more susceptible to large swings in pressure with what may be subtle changes in rifle ammo. I don't think you should ever just blindly swap out any component in a proven load. You need to be careful and know what you are doing. That said, handgun pressures can change a lot more than some folks think from what seem like minor changes. Cartridge overall length can be a biggie.
 
You may want to start out with a 3006 reloading until you get more experience just for the sake of explanation look at it this way let’s just say case X takes 100 grains and you were off by 10 that is 10% which is still a pretty big deal what if that little pistol case which is much faster powder only takes 10 grains and you were off by five now you’re off 50%And probably just created a hand grenade
 
I hope my last statement came across to you I sometimes have trouble explaining what I’m trying to say I have big fat fingers(A former employer called me sausage fingers) bigger is always easier for me and my first rifle I ever reloaded for was a 338 Lapua
 
ErikH said:
With the difficulties of getting equipment, I still have a couple of things on backorder. However, I've also been able to pick up a few things. My questions are: should I still get my back-ordered items or will one take the place of the other? And what would be the next thing to get?

What I have:
Lee Deluxe APP Reloading Press
Lee ACP w/ Depriming Kit
Hornady Cam-Lock Case Trimmer Kit

Backordered:
Hornady Lock-N-Load Single Stage Press

My plan is to start with .380 since I have the brass and bullets already, as well as a 4-die carbide set.
Click to expand...
www.titanreloading.com

LEE AUTOMATIC PROCESSING PRESS (APP)

LEE AUTOMATIC PROCESSING PRESS (APP) Introducing the Lee Automatic Processing Press, the fastest and easiest way to prepare cases and size cast bullets. It is also a very convenient single station reloading press. Includes: Press Automation Kit Bottle Adapter We received the patent on this new...
www.titanreloading.com www.titanreloading.com
 
1)^^^^^Scale & trickler... depending on your budget a beam scale can weigh very accurate charges if used or set up properly, or you can spend more for chem/pharma lab type sensitivity but not nessacary
1A (to check your powder throw or however your dispensing powder )
2) a cheap/Lyman digital scale is good to have for quick general weighing bullets or brass plus check your powder charges etc.
3or4) calipers first and mic. are essential, you can skip the cartridge case gauge cost and just measure everything/OAL/cases carefully...3-5-6-7 times before you start cranking them out (digital E measure brand tools on amazon work great, load bench consistency is what your looking for, not rocket engine building)
A case gauge quickly warns you of a undersized case or OAL is out of spec but doesn't help in measuring anything else that i'm aware of, but good for quick assurance
Get used to measuring and remeasuring and always scan your powder levels in your loaded cases (IN YOUR
5) LOADING BLOCKS) before starting to seat bullets, in the last month I've seen two different experienced reloaders have FF due to NO powder in their cartridges at the range
6) a hammer type disassembly tool for the mistakes, it will happen
That's the tip of the iceberg but should get you on the range, have fun, be careful and yes keep the single stage BO for bottle neck cartridges
Sorry for the long read, hope it helps
 
The first thing you should get is a couple of reputable loading manuals. Speer and Hornady have detailed explanations of loading operations. Don't get a LEE manual, it's nothing but regurgitations of someone else's information. Another thing is a bullet puller, this will make correcting mistakes (you will make make them, we all do/have). I would suggest get a kinetic puller (hammer style) and a collet puller, both have there uses.
 
I'd suggest starting with 45ACP (assuming you shoot it much.)

Bigger components make things easier to handle, and the lower pressure round and relatively large case capacities mean smaller, safer pressure changes for the inevitably varying charges and OAL's.

A lot of people that load small cases (like 380 in your case, or 32SWL in mine) find that manipulating the tiny components can be a PITA. And small changes make for proportionally larger pressure swings.

The advantage of starting with a straight-wall pistol case is that it's more straightforward than a bottleneck case - no lube, no futzing on shoulder setback. Just run the sizer down to the shellplate and you're done.
 
divingin said:
I'd suggest starting with 45ACP (assuming you shoot it much.)

Bigger components make things easier to handle, and the lower pressure round and relatively large case capacities mean smaller, safer pressure changes for the inevitably varying charges and OAL's.

A lot of people that load small cases (like 380 in your case, or 32SWL in mine) find that manipulating the tiny components can be a PITA. And small changes make for proportionally larger pressure swings.

The advantage of starting with a straight-wall pistol case is that it's more straightforward than a bottleneck case - no lube, no futzing on shoulder setback. Just run the sizer down to the shellplate and you're done.
Click to expand...
Cool, and I would shoot 45ACP more if I reloaded.
 
Twicepop said:
The first thing you should get is a couple of reputable loading manuals. Speer and Hornady have detailed explanations of loading operations. Don't get a LEE manual, it's nothing but regurgitations of someone else's information. Another thing is a bullet puller, this will make correcting mistakes (you will make make them, we all do/have). I would suggest get a kinetic puller (hammer style) and a collet puller, both have there uses.
Click to expand...
So far I only have the Hornady app and the hardcover book.
 
In regards to the loading manuals - I'm looking at bullets at Everglades Ammo, but it seems that the Hornady book only covers their products. Is that why I should get a second manual?
 
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