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Best Projectiles for 300 BO

Of the three listed, Hornady 190 SubX, best expansion, better than average accuracy and easy to tune. Jump tolerant.

The Amax will not expand, the Nosler does not expand worth spit near or below 1000 fps.

The Nosler bullet also has a very thin jacket that damages easily when seating causing stability issues, so compressed loads are almost impossible, limiting your powder choice.

Maker bullets offers a wide range of expanding subsonic bullets, Lehigh defense is also a good choice. Both are lathe turned solids.

Depends on use and shot distance.
 
Of the three listed, Hornady 190 SubX, best expansion, better than average accuracy and easy to tune. Jump tolerant.

Depends on use and shot distance.
Does expansion change on the 190 Subx (or on any of them) whether your using suppressor, I’m assuming it doesn’t affect it.
How about using 10.5” barrel vs something shorter or longer?
Are there particular powders you prefer? Hopefully you have a few ideas!?
Is there a particular bullet powder combo you use for trigger time. Meaning cheap/plinking ammo?

Storm I hope you don’t mind me asking a few questions. Dellet knows his stuff when it come to 300 blackout! You can check him out over on 300 blackout forum. A lot of good info over there on blackout.
 
The most accurate subsonic load I have developed is with nosler 190 custom competition over vihtivouri N110. The sub x also with n110 is a very close second. The best thing about n110 is how quiet it is suppressed, and relatively clean
 
Of the three listed, Hornady 190 SubX, best expansion, better than average accuracy and easy to tune. Jump tolerant.

The Amax will not expand, the Nosler does not expand worth spit near or below 1000 fps.

The Nosler bullet also has a very thin jacket that damages easily when seating causing stability issues, so compressed loads are almost impossible, limiting your powder choice.

Maker bullets offers a wide range of expanding subsonic bullets, Lehigh defense is also a good choice. Both are lathe turned solids.

Depends on use and shot distance.
Thank you for your response @dellet . I have read a lot of your other posts as well.

Do you think there are other projectiles which are competitive to the 190gr SUBX that I did not list?
 
Thank you for your response @dellet . I have read a lot of your other posts as well.

Do you think there are other projectiles which are competitive to the 190gr SUBX that I did not list?
That depends on type of rifle/pistol and intended use. @dellet would be the best source of information for this cartridge.
 
That depends on type of rifle/pistol and intended use. @dellet would be the best source of information for this cartridge.
Really my goal here is to work up a reliable round, compatible with both rifle and pistol, that has good terminal ballistics. Good projectile, that doesn't break the bank.

Or two, one with very good terminal ballistics, and another sub that can for training/range.

I would want the round to not be super specific to a certain barrel length. I have read that 16 inch to 10.5 usually has about a 100fps drop, that should be somewhat tolerable.

Maybe slightly hot on a 16in barrel.
 
The blessing and curse of the cartridge is the versatility. For subs bullet choice might determine powder choice, but then you have operating system, gas or hand fed, and barrel length. With gas fed, tube length will make a difference.

Your velocity is basically locked in to about a 100 FPS window, 950-1050 FPS. no matter what barrel length. So what works fine in a 6” barrel may push everything to 1100 FPS in a 24” barrel. Powder slow enough for the 24” barrel may not burn enough in a 6” to reach 900 FPS. Those are the extremes.

Then you need enough gas to cycle the bolt.

Powders that will reliably cycle carbine gas systems, an leave so much carbon and I burned powder behind in a short barrel with pistol gas that reliable cycling after 200 rounds is not possible.

Copper solids need high pressure to obturate and seal the bore. It not uncommon to have stability problems with long for weight class solids because you have gas cutting issues at the base, boat tails really have issues.

Sub loads are not known for accuracy for a reason. They are very hard to tune. What some consider acceptable ES/SD numbers, because “you are only shooting 100 yards”, add up to a 4” vertical string at 200.

All that makes general or blanket statements difficult.

Ultra quiet may have to be sacrificed for long range accuracy, or just the opposite depending on use. Example my “indoor defense load”, if I can hit 8” target at 35 yards without sights shooting from inside a concrete building without hearing protection and not completely lose hearing, I would trade that for a sub MOA load at 200 yards that barks like a hound looking for love.

Guys I know taking game past 200 yards with subs are not as concerned with noise.

A lot of words and still no answers.

First contradiction of many.

In general statement. The fastest powder, with the highest bulk density, will be the quietest, cleanest and most accurate powder to use. The high case fill ratio has the tightest spreads, creates more consistent pressure curves, burns cleanest/more completely, has less muzzle pressure, that will cycle the action is what to use.

A statement that has drawn a lot of criticism over time by people who don’t think it out. “The most efficient powder in a long barrel, will be the most efficient powder in a short barrel”. Efficiency may work against you or you can use to your advantage.

With all that in mind, some basic info needed to put a good load together.

intended use,
Barrel length
Hand fed or gas fed
Gas system

then the fun can begin
 
The blessing and curse of the cartridge is the versatility. For subs bullet choice might determine powder choice, but then you have operating system, gas or hand fed, and barrel length. With gas fed, tube length will make a difference.

Your velocity is basically locked in to about a 100 FPS window, 950-1050 FPS. no matter what barrel length. So what works fine in a 6” barrel may push everything to 1100 FPS in a 24” barrel. Powder slow enough for the 24” barrel may not burn enough in a 6” to reach 900 FPS. Those are the extremes.

Then you need enough gas to cycle the bolt.

Powders that will reliably cycle carbine gas systems, an leave so much carbon and I burned powder behind in a short barrel with pistol gas that reliable cycling after 200 rounds is not possible.

Copper solids need high pressure to obturate and seal the bore. It not uncommon to have stability problems with long for weight class solids because you have gas cutting issues at the base, boat tails really have issues.

Sub loads are not known for accuracy for a reason. They are very hard to tune. What some consider acceptable ES/SD numbers, because “you are only shooting 100 yards”, add up to a 4” vertical string at 200.

All that makes general or blanket statements difficult.

Ultra quiet may have to be sacrificed for long range accuracy, or just the opposite depending on use. Example my “indoor defense load”, if I can hit 8” target at 35 yards without sights shooting from inside a concrete building without hearing protection and not completely lose hearing, I would trade that for a sub MOA load at 200 yards that barks like a hound looking for love.

Guys I know taking game past 200 yards with subs are not as concerned with noise.

A lot of words and still no answers.

First contradiction of many.

In general statement. The fastest powder, with the highest bulk density, will be the quietest, cleanest and most accurate powder to use. The high case fill ratio has the tightest spreads, creates more consistent pressure curves, burns cleanest/more completely, has less muzzle pressure, that will cycle the action is what to use.

A statement that has drawn a lot of criticism over time by people who don’t think it out. “The most efficient powder in a long barrel, will be the most efficient powder in a short barrel”. Efficiency may work against you or you can use to your advantage.

With all that in mind, some basic info needed to put a good load together.

intended use,
Barrel length
Hand fed or gas fed
Gas system

then the fun can begin
Fair enough.

Let's say we have a
10.5in barrel
Gas fed
AR-15 standard gas system, not piston.

We are aiming to build the quietest round possible

So we would want a faster powder, a lighter load due to the short barrel, a magnum primer, for a more complete ignition, but how would we go about determining which projectile?

What is fast and what is slow in regards to 300BO? Is there a good chart that shows cross brand powder speeds?


Man, this has me excited like I was a kid again... lol
 
Last edited:
What gas length, pistol or carbine?

In theory, it should be pistol gas, but a few carbine length ones are out there. For now let’s assume set up as “normal”. This would be how AAC did their testing and pitched the project.

Any barrel under 16” pistol gas, 16” and over carbine gas.

Setup is pistol gas, M16 carrier, H2 buffer 5oz
Carbine gas, M16 carrier, carbine buffer 3oz

By design it should function with and without a suppressor, subs and supers. This creates the first problems. If it will cycle subs without a suppressor, it’s terribly over gassed for supers and more so supers suppressed. Add to that, originally only bullets heavier than 200 grains were expected to function sub-sonic, without a suppressor.

Rule of thumb, the heavier the bullet, the faster the powder you can use. For the most part, faster is quieter. Always some exceptions. You use less powder for the same velocity, it burns a higher percentage in a shorter distance so less gas and noise out the barrel to suppress and less gas blowing back in your face.

The trade off is less gas to cycle the action.

This is where port size comes into play, that can be for later.

In some ways, it’s choose a bullet and make it work.

The fastest powder I have been able to have reliable function are Accurate #9 and VV N105 with most bullets 168 grains and up in a 8” barrel, without a lot of modifications, suppressed only. The suppressor makes a huge difference in back pressure, that aids in cycling. Those loads are about as quiet as a nail gun, would probably be fine in a 10.5”. My 10.5 is carbine gas so I’m limited to slightly slower powders like 296 or N110.

If you like working up loads, this cartridge can keep you busy.

To more directly answer you question, pick the bullet, then find the powder. A good example is Lehigh’s 174 grain brass bullet. I have not been able to get that particular bullet to work with N105. Yet a 168 Amax works fine. It’s a slick bullet, fast for bullet weight with comparable powder charge. Again slowing down the powder works.

Maker bullets, has sub sonic bullets from about 80 to 220 grains. I have successfully cycled the 110 grain bullets in an AR. It’s tricky and they serve no real purpose, maybe pest control in the yards, but it would be about like shooting tree squirrels with a 9MM.

To help choose a bullet and powder, look at Sierra’s load data. If there is data down to 1200 fps, generally you can tweak it to sub sonic in a shorter barrel. It will give an idea of what’s possible. Ignore the Trail Boss loads, they won’t budge the bolt carrier.

The 190 Hornady is a good choice, and bullets in that weight class. A good practice bullet is the 190 grain Nosler competition bullet. It can generally be found in a 1000 count box for under $300. In good times shooters pro shop has blems.

Bottom line the trade off is ease of function and using powders like LT 30, 1680, CFE BLK, they will cycle almost anything. As long as you don’t mind loud, Smokey and filthy.

It was asked about Shooters World Blackout. Compares very close to 1680 and you can use that data. Consider it a hot lot and drop back 1/2-1 grain at the top end. Burns cleaner and is quieter. Also like 1680, it’s great for supers 150 grains and over.

Hope that helps make a decision. Pick a bullet and just about any powder on the burn rate chart between N105 and reloader 10 will work for something.
 
What gas length, pistol or carbine?

In theory, it should be pistol gas, but a few carbine length ones are out there. For now let’s assume set up as “normal”. This would be how AAC did their testing and pitched the project.

Any barrel under 16” pistol gas, 16” and over carbine gas.

Setup is pistol gas, M16 carrier, H2 buffer 5oz
Carbine gas, M16 carrier, carbine buffer 3oz

By design it should function with and without a suppressor, subs and supers. This creates the first problems. If it will cycle subs without a suppressor, it’s terribly over gassed for supers and more so supers suppressed. Add to that, originally only bullets heavier than 200 grains were expected to function sub-sonic, without a suppressor.

Rule of thumb, the heavier the bullet, the faster the powder you can use. For the most part, faster is quieter. Always some exceptions. You use less powder for the same velocity, it burns a higher percentage in a shorter distance so less gas and noise out the barrel to suppress and less gas blowing back in your face.

The trade off is less gas to cycle the action.

This is where port size comes into play, that can be for later.

In some ways, it’s choose a bullet and make it work.

The fastest powder I have been able to have reliable function are Accurate #9 and VV N105 with most bullets 168 grains and up in a 8” barrel, without a lot of modifications, suppressed only. The suppressor makes a huge difference in back pressure, that aids in cycling. Those loads are about as quiet as a nail gun, would probably be fine in a 10.5”. My 10.5 is carbine gas so I’m limited to slightly slower powders like 296 or N110.

If you like working up loads, this cartridge can keep you busy.

To more directly answer you question, pick the bullet, then find the powder. A good example is Lehigh’s 174 grain brass bullet. I have not been able to get that particular bullet to work with N105. Yet a 168 Amax works fine. It’s a slick bullet, fast for bullet weight with comparable powder charge. Again slowing down the powder works.

Maker bullets, has sub sonic bullets from about 80 to 220 grains. I have successfully cycled the 110 grain bullets in an AR. It’s tricky and they serve no real purpose, maybe pest control in the yards, but it would be about like shooting tree squirrels with a 9MM.

To help choose a bullet and powder, look at Sierra’s load data. If there is data down to 1200 fps, generally you can tweak it to sub sonic in a shorter barrel. It will give an idea of what’s possible. Ignore the Trail Boss loads, they won’t budge the bolt carrier.

The 190 Hornady is a good choice, and bullets in that weight class. A good practice bullet is the 190 grain Nosler competition bullet. It can generally be found in a 1000 count box for under $300. In good times shooters pro shop has blems.

Bottom line the trade off is ease of function and using powders like LT 30, 1680, CFE BLK, they will cycle almost anything. As long as you don’t mind loud, Smokey and filthy.

It was asked about Shooters World Blackout. Compares very close to 1680 and you can use that data. Consider it a hot lot and drop back 1/2-1 grain at the top end. Burns cleaner and is quieter. Also like 1680, it’s great for supers 150 grains and over.

Hope that helps make a decision. Pick a bullet and just about any powder on the burn rate chart between N105 and reloader 10 will work for something.
Incredibly informative.

I'll run with this and report back in the upcoming months.

I appreciate you
 
WHAT are you planning to point this at with your selected bullet?

Paper? If so, go frugal.

I run 175 to 220 gr on top of Lil' Gun - excellent performance on paper and steel.
 
Incredibly informative.

I'll run with this and report back in the upcoming months.

I appreciate you
One last thing to keep in mind, style of bullet, or how it expands.

Something like the Hornady is a conventional expanding bullet. Impact, expansion, tissue disruption, mostly shock and energy dump.

The solids open up like a broad head, and cut a path like a propeller. In general less tissue damage, greater blood loss.

Both are effective, just different.
 
I still havent found a good use for this round in an AR- whats the purpose in it? Just trying to shoot something quiet why not go with a 22 or a 45acp?
 
I still havent found a good use for this round in an AR- whats the purpose in it? Just trying to shoot something quiet why not go with a 22 or a 45acp?
I have a hard time getting a 250 grain bullet out the barrel of a 22 LR, and ballistically if you compare what a 45 acp will do, the same weight bullet in a blackout round will start out performing it at about 15 feet.

Not sure I have ever seen either a 22 LR or 45 ACP break 2000 fps, never mind 3000,

Other than that they are pretty much the same. You know kinda like a 9mm and a 6BR.
 

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