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Barrel vise ?

I have had to use upwards of 350-400 ft.lbs. of torque with an outside receiver wrench on many Remington and Howa factory barrels. I won't do that with an inside action tool because of fear of cracking the receiver. Heating and penetrating oil also helps sometimes. Don't go over 300 degrees, that is when loc-tight starts to soften.
 
Don't exactly recall where I purchased this vise several years ago; Brownells, I think? As it sits on my dedicated "barrel changing station" in the loading room...to primarily handle my Barnards. I modified it with an attached hardwood base with appendages each side that can be used as foot-rests, if need be, for the tough ones :oops:. Note the brass shims to control slippage. It is quite portable, the wife can easily tote it, and it regularly goes to the range/matches with me.

Dan
 

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How about a Great Scott barrel vise? I'm in search of a new barrel vise. I want this to be the last one I buy. I don't want to mess with inserts. I do take apart factory new Savage's which we all know can be tough.

Don Dunlap

Don, my vise when used for a 700 there is no competition
in the market. To take apart non Remington products,
simply revere the vise to expose the non recoil lug side
of the vise. Then it will preform like all other vises.
LDS
 
Dry wall tape on the barrel is a miracle worker, suggested by a friend, tried and it sure works!

I use Larry Scott's barrel vise on all new Remington take off's, sure makes life easy!
 
Question. I have been told that a piece of leather will do a good job. I have a vice and some leather I recently purchased but have not tried it yet. Will this work?

Nick, I have had a container of powdered resin from Brownels for years. I dab of it in your vice will keep your barrel from moving while attempting to remove it. No cardboard, paper, or anything else will be needed.
 
I cast a lead bushing for the 1.250 shank and it has worked on other diameters quite well as it will deform to fit when the top clamp is tightened, no slip , no damage. no paper, no rosin.
 
20 minutes from payment, until shipment starts. I think that is a land speed record! LOL
You’re making Amazon look bad!
Thanks Larry!!
 
I have had to use upwards of 350-400 ft.lbs. of torque with an outside receiver wrench on many Remington and Howa factory barrels. I won't do that with an inside action tool because of fear of cracking the receiver. Heating and penetrating oil also helps sometimes. Don't go over 300 degrees, that is when loc-tight starts to soften.
That's at least 5 times the torque needed and entirely unnecessary. This absolutely guaranteed to result in failure. Frankly, I don't think you have the strength to get anything that tight. This would most likely crush the threads rendering both the barrel and the action useless.
 
I destroyed a viper barrel vise. So far, the Great Scott one has more “grippiness” with less torque, so I don’t have to tighten the top screws as much. We’ll see if this one lasts a while.
 
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Don, my vise when used for a 700 there is no competition
in the market. To take apart non Remington products,
simply revere the vise to expose the non recoil lug side
of the vise. Then it will preform like all other vises.
LDS
show us a picture,,please,,,Roger
 
That's at least 5 times the torque needed and entirely unnecessary. This absolutely guaranteed to result in failure. Frankly, I don't think you have the strength to get anything that tight. This would most likely crush the threads rendering both the barrel and the action useless.
That's to take them off. I use maybe 50-60 ft.lbs. to put new ones back on. How can I use less torque to take them off? Sometimes I have to use a 4' cheater bar.
 
My vise is not about brute force. Its all in the SNAP w/a 700.
I printed this next sentence so many times I sound like a broken record.
FORGET the tape, the penetrating oil, the cardboard, the rosin, the leather, the lead shims, and above all the TORCH.
First the vise needs to be attacked to an immovable surface.
Tools needed 1 rear entry wrench/ one socket and ratchet or breaker bar to fit the rear of the wrench, 1 four ft cheater bar.
With the barreled action in the vise, insert the wrench firmly against the back of the barrel. Next put the socket on the rear of the wrench, and if you are right handed stand to that side of the action with the cheater bar on the ratchet handle, The bar needs to be on your right shoulder or a little above. There will be some play in the ratchet and the cheater bar, this is good. With your tools in a rocking motion, and you cheater bar about head high you hit that sucker like you are trying to run over the quarterback in a football game. Its not pressure, its that quick snap that make this effortless. You will not damage any parts, I promise you that. If you put aluminum scuff from the vise on you barrel, it wipes right off w/bore cleaner. I used Butches. The vise has a witness mark for reinstalling a barrel. This system works so easy, you will wonder how you got along w/o it. It's $89.00 delivered
w/pictures on my web site. Remember its not about strength or brute force, it's the QUICK SNAP. LDS
www.greatscotttriggers.com
 
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